65rfe 4th gen 6 speed auto xsmn .

jettajam1 · Mar 18, 2017

No salt here, thank goodness. I'll give it a go tomorrow.....geeez, I was figuring on a few hours to do the swap, not an entire weekend[emoji15]

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Hemi395 · Mar 18, 2017

Well that sucks. Keep us posted...

U&A · Mar 18, 2017

To be honest if I was in that situation I would not screw around with trying to make it work. I would put the OEM pan back on and try and figure out the problem later. My truck is my only transportation. I would not be comfortable with it sitting in the garage and not having a way to get somewhere if I needed.

Take lots of pictures and contact them (MH)

Hemi395 · Mar 18, 2017

What you could do is grab some Castrol ATF4 or equivalent, put the stock pan on for now, fill it with the cheaper fluid and then worry about the fitment of the MH pan later. That way you're not wasting $12/quart C+...

jettajam1 · Mar 18, 2017

U&A said:
To be honest if I was in that situation I would not screw around with trying to make it work. I put the OEM pan back on and try and figure out the problem later. My truck is my only transportation. I would not be comfortable with it sitting in the garage and not having a way to get somewhere if I needed.

Take lots of pictures and contact them

That's exactly what I have to do. I can't swing having it out of commission either. The problem I'm facing now is, I tore up the MH seal and slightly gouged the pan (on a valve body screw). I also dented the thread- on filter. I'm not a hack by any means, and can usually figure this **** out, but this one kicked my ass.

Seeing as I drilled a hole in my stock pan, and was planning on getting the drain plug kit later, I can't use it. So I called the dealer and got a replacement stock pan (59 bucks), new filter (23) and some Mopar gasket material. I'll replace the filter and put the new stock pan on in the morning.

Then I'll order a new seal from MH, blend out the slight gouge, and wait for another weekend to try again. Now I can do my homework on the Y-pipe removal and be better prepared next time.

On the bright side, the rig is getting a tranny fluid and filter change (complete with the C+).

Here's the gasket and pan damage:

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Hemi395 · Mar 18, 2017

Well that works. The pan is probably fine but I'd definitely get a new gasket to be safe. Sorry this didn't work out like planned but glad you're up and running!

You can also consider this fluid the "flush"...

jettajam1 · Mar 18, 2017

Hemi395 said:
What you could do is grab some Castrol ATF4 or equivalent, put the stock pan on for now, fill it with the cheaper fluid and then worry about the fitment of the MH pan later. That way you're not wasting $12/quart C+...

Good idea

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U&A · Mar 18, 2017

The pan is fine, polish it out with some scotch bright.

How often do you plan on dropping the pan to do a filter change?

If you plan on doing it a few times in the trucks life you are going to hate doing it every time because of the exhaust issue.

Again this is just my Opinion so take it with a grain of salt. I would see if I can return the pan even if I don't get all of my money back. But first I would see if the PML pan would have the same issues or not. I would talk to them in person. Maybe they can give you some dimensions on their pan so you could figure out if it will fit before you buy it.

I'm sure somebody on this forum could buy the pan off of you if you decided it did not work.

jettajam1 · Mar 18, 2017

Thanks for all the feedback boys, I certainly appreciate it. I'll keep y'all posted.

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U&A · Mar 18, 2017

Well if you need a pick-me-up laugh, go to oreilly auto parts website and type "121G" in the search bar.

Back to the future fans will love it.

Anyway. I think that pan would fit my truck so if you want to get rid of it in the future....(pun intended) im interested

R.L.K. · Mar 18, 2017

jettajam1 said:
Good idea

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Great idea hemi ; however, ( me personally ) I'd bite the bullet and pour in the Redline C+ now , and once the " Y " pipe is taken care of , along with the new gasket and filter , I'd install the MH pan with New C+ and call it a GREAT FLUSH !
There's a lot of fluid you do not normally get out on a pan drop only , this way gives you a better opportunity to have closer to 100 % REDLINE C+ gold in your tranny !
I then would just drain and refill with Redline C+ every 30 or so and drop the pan for the filter changes at 60 - 90k

Hemi395 · Mar 18, 2017

R.L.K. said:
Great idea hemi ; however, ( me personally ) I'd bite the bullet and pour in the Redline C+ now , and once the " Y " pipe is taken care of , along with the new gasket and filter , I'd install the MH pan with New C+ and call it a GREAT FLUSH !
There's a lot of fluid you on normally get out on a pan drop only , this way gives you a better opportunity to have closer to 100 % REDLINE C+ gold in your tranny !
I then would just drain and refill with Redline C+ every 30 or so and drop the pan for the filter changes at 60 - 90k

Now I don't feel bad for wanting to do a C+ drain and fill this spring when I change my oil. Nothing like a C+ flush to make your trans happy

jettajam1 · Mar 19, 2017

Hey guys, quick question:

Stock pan does not take a gasket, so I have the Mopar MS-GF-41-B RTV. Anyone know what the cure time is? It doesn't say on the tube, and I can't seem to find it anywhere.

Directions say, apply a bead to one surface (1/8 I'd imagine), assemble and let cure.

Any suggestions?

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Hemi395 · Mar 19, 2017

I used that rtv on one of my pan drops and I just let it cure for 3 hours before I put fluid in it. Never leaked from the gasket.

jettajam1 · Mar 19, 2017

Well that's good to know. I may go a bit longer than that though.....just to be sure. How long did you have before it started to set? I've heard you gotta move fast getting the pan and fasteners in......or it's curtains[emoji15]

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Hemi395 · Mar 19, 2017

Yeah it skins over quick so get the rtv on the pan and immediately put it on the trans being careful not to get it on anything inside the trans. Then torque the bolts down(can't remember the spec but it's not much). It sets pretty quick especially if the humidity is low. I did mine on a humid August day and it was pretty well dry after 3 hours.

jettajam1 · Mar 19, 2017

Thanks brother!! Torque is 105 (in lbs)....if anyone is curious

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U&A · Mar 19, 2017

[

I have the same stuff. From what I remember it supposed to be a very fast setting RTV. Don't know the time though

jettajam1 · Mar 19, 2017

Hemi395 said:
Yeah it skins over quick so get the rtv on the pan and immediately put it on the trans being careful not to get it on anything inside the trans. Then torque the bolts down(can't remember the spec but it's not much). It sets pretty quick especially if the humidity is low. I did mine on a humid August day and it was pretty well dry after 3 hours.

New stock pan is on, bolts torqued and waiting for RTV to cure. I'll probably wait 5-6 hours and add fluid tonight. Looks like I'm back in business.

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R.L.K. · Mar 19, 2017

@jettajam1, you gonna run the Redline C+ in the interim, while you hash out the " Y " pipe?

Running the C + would give you a fantastic flush and give your xsmn a higher overall % of Redline only inside .

65rfe 4th gen 6 speed auto xsmn .

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