65rfe 4th gen 6 speed auto xsmn .

Burla said:

dude stole the M on mopar for his sign, lol. nice

good find corey.

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Burla said:

after seeing that ****, Japan is all I have to say. They can't smash the ends to make that pin never come out, what a joke.

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Burla said:

Can you see it w/o taking valve body off? If so I think I will double check when I do my flush.

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Hemi395 said:

Great video showing the disassembly of a 68RFE transmission. The 545/65/66RFE are very similar and have similar weak points.

Keep your RFE transmission cool and change the fluid OFTEN. After seeing this I might go to an annual drain and fill with filter changes every other year.

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R.L.K. said:

Well I was gonna wait Untill 50,000 miles to do this , im at about 47k now , I had some RARE time to perform vehicle maintenance so I installed my Mag-Hytec pan and both filters ( spin on & sump) & sump filter seal today .
Nothing special about how I did this as others here have done the same , this is just how I did it .
2 out of 10 on difficulty imo.

Hope this helps someone out !

Mag-Hytec
P/N 45RFE
S/N 913

This pan is for the 65RFE 6 speed xsmn with stock exhaust.





First I vacume pumped out all the fluid with a Matco break bleeder to prevent a giant mess while dropping the pan





Had to stop & dump 3 times ( took 10 mins max) very much worth it imo .
I got out about 6.5 qts ! A bit more than I expected .



Next I removed the OEM pan .
Pretty straight forward here . Remove the bolts (5/16" / 8mm )
☆☆ leave in 3 to 4 mostly loose so the pan doesn't fall ☆☆
then utilize a HARD plastic wedge/ scraper and small hammer to get a corner started .

This pic is complements of U&A



I used a much smaller plastic scraper.



Now just Remove the remaining bolts and navigate the pan down avoiding the exhaust pipe .

My OEM pan had a rubber gasket and it had been installed with a sealant as well .



My OEM PAN magnet had very little ferous debris on it for 47,000 miles IMO & with a decent amount of towing and a few tows that I wish I had never done









Next I removed the spin on filter . I used a filter wrench from my motorcycle. It's made by Ampro , #s on it are 65/67 with a 14 beneath.

☆☆☆Caution ☆☆☆
Before breaking the tq on the spin on filter MAKE SURE you have a small container beneath the sump inlet tube ! ! Removal of the spin on filter opens a vent for trapped fluid and it gushes out of the sump filter in a hurry approx 3/4 qt !










Then I installed the new spin on filter. P/N see pic below ☆☆☆☆ as Hemi395 said ☆☆☆☆☆in his xsmn filter replacement " the spin on filter has plastic threads and is VERY VERY easy to crossthread ! " I recommend practicing with the old filter to get a good feel for it !

The drippage you see in my drip pan in the above photo is all the mess that is made if you vacume out the pan through the dip stick tube ....not bad at all imo !

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SyN said:

Great Chat fellas!

I accepted it before I even bought my 2500 - My 68RFE was going to be the weakest link in my drive train chain!

Driving like a civilized human being / Keeping her Blood /ATF as cool as possible while towing / Running a high end synthetic ATF while having shorter then normal service intervals!

Also knowing what modes to have the 68RFE in when towing!

Are my keys for hopefully a long trouble free life for MY 68RFE.
But I also understand $hit Happens.

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popcenator said:

Well, I got a P-0740 code today. I don't seem to have 5th gear. Shifting seems normal up until then but with the higher stall I can't tell if the transmission is slipping more than usual. From what I've read it's usually either the torque converter or the pump. I'm hoping it's just the pump.. Either way it's going in tomorrow to get looked at.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

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