Anyone using 5w30???

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Nutshell

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Been doing tons of research on viscosities and it seems like 5w-20 and 5w-30 are almost identical. I'm having a sporadic ticking issue and want to see if 5w-30 may help me out. I've heard all opinions to why 20w is spec'd from your MDS will explode and you will ruin your motor to its CAFE driven...don't worry about it.

If you've made the switch to 30w, share your results as I'd love to hear them both positive and negative.

Thanks
 

Burla

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A bunch of guys are running it, I have been keeping track. Your mds is never at risk, no damage has ever happened. But a couple guys did throw a code. Most guys run it no prob.
 
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Nutshell

Nutshell

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A bunch of guys are running it, I have been keeping track. Your mds is never at risk, no damage has ever happened. But a couple guys did throw a code. Most guys run it no prob.

I've heard of guys throwing codes with 10w-30 or 0w-40 but never on 5w-30. The differences in viscosities are so small how would the computer know? I mean, what happens up north when it's -10 out and that 5w-20 is like molasses?
 

RodRam

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Almost all 5.7 have the tic on startup, changing to 30 wont help, in cold weather will most likely make it last longer, as it goes away when the lifters fill. Thicker oil moves slower but changing to full syn 5-20 sometimes helps, its caused imo by oil filter leak down, change to a top tier filter with a silicon by pass seal will end it if anything will. the cheap made mopar filters have rubber seals and leak down. Mobil one or royal purple are some of the best you can get, mobil one is tops if you believe the 20 or so tests done that come up in a search. M1-113 is direct replacement for factory mo339.

Ive done a lot of research on all this, getting ready to change the oil first time in my 15 5.7, going with pennzoil 5-20 and mobil one filter, can tell you better then if it helps.
 

BrBlack

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I ran Mobil1 5W30 on my last oil change. Bought the wrong stuff and didn't realize till I was pouring it in.
Left it in for the standard 5000 km. No issues at all. No codes.

Back on Mobil1 5W20 now. I figure the guys at Dodge recommended it for a reason? I choose to believe they know more about oil and the engine then I do....

You shouldn't have any issues if you go with 5w30.
 
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MyOhFive

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Not related to your question, but just FYI not all oils meet the MS6395 rating.. the ones that do are:

Syn:
Pennzoil Platinum
Royal Purple
Castrol Edge
Halvoline Synthetic
Quaker State Ultimate Durability
Conventional

Conventional:
Pennzoil (Yellow Bottle)
Quaker State Advanced Durability
Valvoline (White Bottle)

I'm sure running mobil1 in your 2015 won't make it blow up..
 

Burla

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I've heard of guys throwing codes with 10w-30 or 0w-40 but never on 5w-30. The differences in viscosities are so small how would the computer know? I mean, what happens up north when it's -10 out and that 5w-20 is like molasses?

I doubt any computer can read the difference between 5w30 and 10w30, in fact in redline 10w30 is thinner then 5w30 at operating and cold temps, last I remember I know it doesn't make sense but the differences are minuscule. 40 weight is a different animal, that would be easy to read because that is close to double the visc of 20 weight.
 
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Burla

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Not related to your question, but just FYI not all oils meet the MS6395 rating..

Oh they meet that, they just don't certify it.
 
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Jmhm17

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yeah that MS rating is BS.. its just a money tag.. as long as you use a good oil and it has a high content of moly you will be fine. I run 5w-20 as its recommended and im not an oil ****. and since this truck take 7 quarts and i change it every 3k I use penzoil yellow bottle as it has the highest ppm of moly than any conventional on the market. I guess the added bonus is it has the MS tag too.. yay..
 

Ramzaq

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Just an FYI, the cam phaser also runs off the oil pressure in the truck, not just the MDS.

So by using a heavier weight you could slow down the reactions times for these systems. The reasons for the codes.

Many people have complained about the operation of the MDS and performance and it was found that the wrong weight oil was used in the truck.

A possible reason for the ticking on start up could be a defective check valve in the oil filter letting most of the oil to drain from the upper part of the engine
 
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RAM_Designs

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I ran PYB 5w-30 with zero issues...switched to Red Line 5w20 to get longer OCI's and I'll be doing a mix of Redline 5w20 and 5w30 next time around (4qt 5w30 and 3qt 5w20). I've always liked using thicker oils...they've never given me an issue or reason to not use them, yet.
 
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Nutshell

Nutshell

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Keeping Amsoil SS 5w-20 and I've just changed to a Fram Ultra filter. We'll see if the tick goes away or gets worse.
 

smurfs_of_war

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Doesn't the manual still read that 5w30 is acceptable? I personally can't see it being an issue.

Sent from my SM-G925W8 using Tapatalk
 
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R.L.K.

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I'm running Redline 5W -30 with a Royal Purple synthetic filter, recently made the change , but I can say this my 5.7 has never ran so quiet ! I can actually hear my fan which I've never heard on my first 27k miles !
No messages or codes so far .

With the dealer bulk & mopar filter my oil pressure would drop to the upper 20s @ idle at a stop light and now with Redline 5W -30 in its low 40s @ idle ...
 

RAM_Designs

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I've used PYB 5w30, Red Line 5w20, and PP 5w20 and I've never had mine read that low. Driving on the highway I'm always at 55psi and at idle I'm at 40psi. I found it kind of odd that it never really changed much, maybe a couple psi here or there.
 

TheFactor

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Been running 5w20 from what the factory had in it . Changed my oil at 2500 miles for its first oil change with 5W20 redline and a RP filter .
I figure if it isn't broke then don't fix it. Don't have the tick at start up or at all for that matter so decided to run and keep running what the manufacture recommends . 3000 miles now and going strong lol "Knock on Wood"
Now if I was having any issues that would be different and would go off the beaten and proven path .
 
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adventurer

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I have been running 5-20 and 0-20 for years but last oil change i used 5-30 , i noticed the tick at start up stays longer and sounds louder but what i noticed my truck a bit cooler than it was on 0-20 .
 

Jmhm17

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Just curious.. why do you people mess with the weight of the oil? Is your engine making a noise? are you trying to fix something? Why not use the recommended weight? I know some of you have no faith in FCA, but I hate to tell you the R&D Engineers know a lot more about these motors than any of us combined, and recommended 5W20 for a reason, so why not just stick with it?
 

R.L.K.

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Been doing tons of research on viscosities and it seems like 5w-20 and 5w-30 are almost identical. I'm having a sporadic ticking issue and want to see if 5w-30 may help me out. I've heard all opinions to why 20w is spec'd from your MDS will explode and you will ruin your motor to its CAFE driven...don't worry about it.

If you've made the switch to 30w, share your results as I'd love to hear them both positive and negative.

Thanks
Hey buddy , like I posted above I have recently gone to Redline 5W -30 oil and I'm glad I did , not much thicker but it is thicker .
Only 50 miles on it so far , no MDS issues , my ECO Lt. comes on same as before , my 5.7 is very quiet & silky smooth and my MPGS are right on with prior to the swap away from whatever bulk water thin oil the dealer puts in for free and my oil pressure is more stable than before .

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Prior to the swap with oil temp stabilized @ 200° my oil press with the bulk oil would drop to upper 20s when at a stoplight @ idle / withe Redline 5W -30 it's at 42 psi .
As for why go to something other than the recommended 20 wt oil ( asked above ) better film coverage is the only reason I made the swap...

In conclusion no issues at all and I've Benifit ed with a quieter Hemi and more stable oil pressure.

Hope this helps .
 
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