ARH LT Headers - ShadeTree DYI

I ordered some American Racing Headers - LT 1 3/4 high-flow CATS from Matt at Moes Performance. When they arrive, I plan to get them ceramic coated before the installation.

I have toyed with the idea of doing this myself on my daily driver, and I have not found anywhere on the net a 4th Gen Hemi youtube video or detailed pics of the step by step (other than bolt extraction). If I can stir up some courage with answers to some of my questions below, I will do a step by step and/or a youtube or **** out and have a shop do the installation.

OK, bear with me:

• I know I have at least 1 stock manifold bolt that is either loose or has snapped, so extraction is my first plan of attack. I don't have a welder (never welded) so welding a nut to the bolt(s) is out. I don't have anti-sieze or penetrating oil, and need a brand recommendation.
• I need a good bolt extraction kit, anyone got a recommendation?
• Should I use ARH header gaskets and fasteners or look elsewhere for fasteners and gaskets, like Remflex?
• I have a Magnaflow CAT-back exhaust, it will need cutting to accomodate the LT's. In all seriousness, is a hacksaw the way to go here? I do have a cutting wheel but I never cut **** straight with it.
• Depending on the difficulty with the bolt extractions, I am planning on this being a 10-12 hour install. Am I over/under on that timeline?

Thanks!

I took my stock manifolds off and had my new LT's on in about 3 hours, but im a fast worker.. I used the gasket and hardware that came with the headers and have run them for almost 10,000 miles and still have no leaks or issues. Be sure to make sure your headers aren't up against any lines as they will either burn or rub through them (mine rubbed through my brake lines, but I have 1 7/8"). Everything is pretty straight forward.. Pb blaster for penetrating oil

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For the broken bolt it depends how it was broken. I was lucky enough that it was sticking out enough that I was able to get it out with vise-grip. I don't habe experience with extractor kit, but had my welder ready.

PB blaster worked well and if you can spray everything multiple times a few days before you try to loose them it will work even better.

I didn't use the provided gasket since it was bent when I received it. I've use a remflex instead.

An hacksaw will come handy when you try to remove the mid-pipe from the y-pipe. Mine was stuck in there good so I had no other choice but to cut the mid-pipe. It wasn't an issue since the Arh y-pipe is longer and you need to cut the mid-pipe anyways.

You will have to get the oil dipstick tube out, this will require that you unbolt the driver side motor mount and lift the engine to have enough room to remove the bolt that hold the tube to the block. Then you can install the header, but don't tight it down yet as you will have to wiggle the dipstick back in and bend it to fit.

Make sure your brake line are not to close to the pipes, some had issues with them being to close. Mine seemed to be ok, but still wrapped them in cool tape.

I spent roughly 2 days installing them, but probably can do it again in 6 hours now that I know what to do lol.

HTH

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PB Blaster is ok, but if you want to use some really good stuff, Kroil is outstanding. Some hardware stores here (N. Va.) stock it, or it can be ordered direct from Kano Labs.
Kroil, let soaking for a few days has loosened rusted fasteners I thought were hopeless.

There was a test of all the penetrating oils a few years ago, and what actually was proven to be better than anything, was a 50-50 mix of acetone and ATF.

Good luck with your install.

The best penetrating oil seems to be home made - ATF and acetone.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/best-penetrating-oil-for-stuck-nuts-bolts.773380/

https://www.ericthecarguy.com/kunena/15-Technicians-Only/47588-best-penetrating-oil

bassheadhemi said:

...You will have to get the oil dipstick tube out, this will require that you unbolt the driver side motor mount and lift the engine to have enough room to remove the bolt that hold the tube to the block. Then you can install the header, but don't tight it down yet as you will have to wiggle the dipstick back in and bend it to fit.

Make sure your brake line are not to close to the pipes, some had issues with them being to close. Mine seemed to be ok, but still wrapped them in cool tape. <--- Brand recommendation?

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How did you lift the engine from that side? I can find the motor mount, np.
Thanks much, Basshead!

S0CAL said:

How did you lift the engine from that side? I can find the motor mount, np.
Thanks much, Basshead!

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I'll be honest, I've used a piece of 4x4 between the jack and... can't remember. I'm pretty it's not the oil pan as I have a oil heater on it and that would have damage the heater.

I'll try to find a picture to help my memory

Found a picture on the web, I think the 4x4 was where the 2 red circles are. Being attached on the passenger side, the driver side came up without problem.

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Thanks Bass!

Bass- is that a pep-**** on your oil pan??

Fumoto drain valve
Jay

Pull Ya said:

Fumoto drain valve
Jay

Click to expand...

Jay, thanks for the reminder -- ordered one just now!

Ratket said:

Bass- is that a pep-**** on your oil pan??

Click to expand...

No clue I stole the picture from another thread lol

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See post #11
Jay

Pull Ya said:

See post #11
Jay

Click to expand...

Ok now I want one lol

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Got far too busy so I decided to take my truck in to a local performance shop. Will post pics.

Out of the box pics

and more

Stage 8 fasteners and a peek at the ceramic coating. I think they came out great.

I sure wished you wouldn't have posted those pictures!!!!!!
Jay