Broken Manifold Studs?

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Speedy12139

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Yeah yeah yeah, this topic again :flipthebird:

Almost forgot I had an account on this page, but I've recently noticed my '11 Ram (just rolled over 90k kms) making a horrible exhaust leak type sound. It had come and go, but now it's constant. My truck sounds like an late 90's early '00s Ford with bad exhaust gaskets! (which are super common around my area) :puke:

As many have mentioned before, it was the perfect definition of a manifold leak. But under a closer inspection (just laying under the truck) I've come to find I've got a minimum of one* broken stud. Top one, closest to the firewall, passenger side. I'm sure I'm not that lucky, and upon repair, I'm liable to break more.

So I've already been in, and ordered a new set of Fel-Pro manifold gaskets, and I'm sitting here doing research trying to find an answer which seems to be evading me.

I've already come across this;
RIGHT PASSENGER 5.7L HEMI EXHAUST MANIFOLD BOLT SET 2009-12 RAM 1500 2500 3500

Which seems like an awful lot of money for some bolts/studs that are prone to failing again.

I plan on keeping this truck for quite some time, and DON'T plan on revisiting this job, cause I have a feeling it's gonna SUCK. What I'm wondering is, if it's possible to use some Stainless hardware? Bolts and lock washers from the shops in town, for make shift header bolts? :crazy: Obviously taking a stock one in for proper size, and threads. If they all don't snap! :suicide:

I've personally done this before on car's (3 Pontiac Grand Prix's) and they have seemed to work no problem! Then again, those car's have Iron heads.

Will this cause an issue? Has anyone else on here done the same? Will proper Stainless header bolts be a better option? Or do I just have to bite the bullet and buy those OEM bolt's/studs? I have 0 issue in not running the tinny little excuse of a heatsheild. I just want an additional opinion.

What do you guys think??? I'm just trying to save a little money (who isn't), but not be a total "hack". Figured it never hurts to ask.
 

whetrick1

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With only 90 K. Isn't it still under the power train warranty?


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Speedy12139

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With only 90 K. Isn't it still under the power train warranty?


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According to my local Dodge dealer.... Apparently not. I had thought I had an extended warranty still on it??? (transferred off the PO) But idk, I was told the only warranty left remaining on my truck, had something to do with rust holes in the sheet metal.

I'm going to call around tomorrow to see if it still is *fingers crossed* But figured for the time being, if it isn't under warranty, I would ask on here. I have no problem working on it myself. :cheers:
 

whetrick1

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Oh ok. What about ARP exhaust bolts. They say that they are good bolts.


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Speedy12139

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Oh ok. What about ARP exhaust bolts. They say that they are good bolts.


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Are you referring about their stud kit?? I mean, I have nothing against ARP. I'm just trying to kinda minimize downtime if you get where I'm coming from? Really don't wanna wait a week or 2 for shipping, and spend faaar more than I have to, if I don't NEED to. Pickin up what I'm putting down?
 

DILLIGAF

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If you dont want to revisit this job, Don't put Dodge crap back on... :)

And yes more will break if you dont soak them in penetrating oil before trying to remove them.
 

LB3711

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my 2011 has 2 broken bolts. 1 on each side. Back top bolts. Planning on shorty headers next year for me. It ticks when cold i hate it
 
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Speedy12139

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If you dont want to revisit this job, Don't put Dodge crap back on... :)

And yes more will break if you dont soak them in penetrating oil before trying to remove them.

Don't worry, I plan on giving them a nice bath! lmao Don't wanna make any more work for myself, that's for sure.

Still, no real answer to my question of using Hardware store stainless bolts yet. :favorites13:
 

DILLIGAF

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I used a RemFlex Gasket and stage 8 bolts for my LT headers.

I tend to stay away from the hardware store for car parts...lol...
 

smiley

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I too bought the stage 8 set for my headers. They (the headers and bolts) are not in yet! I have not had time. I have however had two sets of OEM exhaust manifold setups on the truck and both have failed and I am only at 143k or so. It is a problem they are garbage!!!! Snap off like nothing.
 

whetrick1

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Well hardware stores aren't always the best place to get parts for your cars or trucks. I guess if you can match up some grade 8 bolts and studs, they might hold for awhile. But performance shops and some autopart stores sell better quality hardware for your autos. So remember you get what you pay for.


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Saltillo Express

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My 2012 with 91K had 2 broken manifold bolts covered under the driveline warranty at Fields Dodge in Sanford. FWIW
 

Bee1971

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5 years and 100,000 mile factory power train warranty expired for us 2011 owners
 

brandon.colt

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Ram should issue a recall on these trucks. My 2012 52k miles has at least one broken manifold bolt as well.
 

DILLIGAF

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Ram should issue a recall on these trucks. My 2012 52k miles has at least one broken manifold bolt as well.

Im pretty sure its not the bolts fault, Its the crappy manifold design and the extreme heat built up it causes.
 

JasonK94Z

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Ram should issue a recall on these trucks. My 2012 52k miles has at least one broken manifold bolt as well.



I agree. As wide spread as this problem is, it deserves a class action lawsuit. My 2011 with 41k miles is leaking out the passenger side manifold.


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rsavant

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My '16 just started this crap at 66,000. Dealer wants $400 to repair the one side. I'm sure more will break on the other side. I love the truck but this is ridiculous, it's been going on for years. There really should be a recall, and maybe it will take a class action suit. They have done away with 100k mile warranty as of 2016. I just wish I could find a post showing that the shorty headers will resolve the problem. Then I will suck it up and spend the additional money for them.
 

JasonK94Z

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My '16 just started this crap at 66,000. Dealer wants $400 to repair the one side. I'm sure more will break on the other side. I love the truck but this is ridiculous, it's been going on for years. There really should be a recall, and maybe it will take a class action suit. They have done away with 100k mile warranty as of 2016. I just wish I could find a post showing that the shorty headers will resolve the problem. Then I will suck it up and spend the additional money for them.

JBA stainless shorties from Moes Performance will. I’m getting the silver ceramic coated ones after the summer heat subsides.


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blackbetty14

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Don’t use hardware store stainless. Most stainless is rated for grade 2 strength which will snap or stretch apart in the head very easily. If you want stainless and grade 8 or better I would only being using ARP.

Now your trying to bandaid the problem by putting in new hardware on a warped manifold (manifold warps and pushes out on the bolt and snaps it), new hardware will do the same thing. Now you can replace the bad manifold which isn’t warped but it will be in the future just like yours now. You can plane the current warped one which is the best option with new hardware if you want to keep it stock and hopefully it won’t warp more after planing and you could be okay for a while. Otherwise aftermarket shorties and longtubes will Fix the issue and you can get stainless bolts for that and not have anymore issues. Problem with aftermarket is header quality and lasting. I just did a set of ****** shorties and had the primary crack 1 week later, others have BBK and they rust out in a year or two. But the header option even for shorties is gona set you back $600+ minimum. I got my hookers for $380 and arp stainless bolts for $60 and $40 in felpro and remflex gaskets. I’m gona fix my header and hope it holds otherwise it’s returned for replacement reimbursement. My truck only has 10k on it, so no broken bolts but removing the manifolds already showed a 1/16” warp on both sides.
 

blackbetty14

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Im pretty sure its not the bolts fault, Its the crappy manifold design and the extreme heat built up it causes.

Your right it’s not the bolts, mopar stepped them up and used grade 12.9 or grade 8 fasteners. It’s hard to believe the manifolds could warp... if Uve ever had one out they are very heavy and beefy. But somehow they still warp, maybe it’s how much heat the retain and the heads are aluminum which heat and cool much faster leaving the manifold to warp. This is of course after the issue of the different expansion rates.
 
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