Cam failures and Molybdenum

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U&A

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IMO it's worth testing some things in young hemi's, when you find what works, don't change it ever. Most of us who killed our ticks whatever the oil was, regret testing new stuff after we killed our ticks. So find the cheapest synthetic or combo or even conventional that quiets the tick, and ride it as long as you can. If you try qsud and it leaves the hemi as loud as factory fill, boom you know it didn't work, try maybe one or two more things before you go back. If qsud works, winner winner let the syn thread know, thanks Burla

Always judge oils at 500 plus miles and never fresh, the science of oil is that all oils are different at 500 then fresh. Some have heavy vii content and may be really quiet at first, then fade, and some will clean at first and fight to repopulate. All of these things sound crazy, but when you have hemi tick it reveals what is in these oil formulas. Heavy vii formulas simply fade, as vii's shear they do not lubricate, but when fresh will provide great quietness.

This is exactly why I’m wondering if it’s a good idea to try mixing in a few quarts of that “special” oil i did a VOA on.

absolutely zero viscosity index improvers and I bet the ester content is higher than blue label.

Maybe start with just substituting 1 quart. Then do a UOA to check TBN. My OCI general are no longer than 5,000 anyway


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]
 
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Burla

Burla

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Burla

Burla

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Another question about the qsud - is the 5w20 a heavy 20 wt or is the 5w30 the way to go?

Latest qsud 5w20 taken this year. I'm not going to wager an opinion 20 versus 30, but if you are going to use a 20 weight, it doesn't get much better then this anyhow. Plus, by nature 5w20 synthetic anything is a very stable weight of oil, and look at the noack very nice numbers. The fact that their 5w30 is on the thin side for 5w30 just means there may not be a lot of difference either way. Quaker State is kicking ass and taking names, kind of wished they did this approach 10 years ago.
 

18ram18

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OK i have to ask. Why shouldn't a person use an oil like PUP 5w30 or 10w30 with an additive like liqui moly antifriction oil treatment at a total cost of $30 instead of Redline or amisoil ss at a cost of $80?
 

Josh keller

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Very helpful. What's the opinion On using the larger pre 13 filters on a 2017 vs the smaller one it calls for?


Latest qsud 5w20 taken this year. I'm not going to wager an opinion 20 versus 30, but if you are going to use a 20 weight, it doesn't get much better then this anyhow. Plus, by nature 5w20 synthetic anything is a very stable weight of oil, and look at the noack very nice numbers. The fact that their 5w30 is on the thin side for 5w30 just means there may not be a lot of difference either way. Quaker State is kicking ass and taking names, kind of wished they did this approach 10 years ago.
 
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Burla

Burla

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as far as I know the larger ones work, RP 20-820.
 
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Burla

Burla

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OK i have to ask. Why shouldn't a person use an oil like PUP 5w30 or 10w30 with an additive like liqui moly antifriction oil treatment at a total cost of $30 instead of Redline or amisoil ss at a cost of $80?

10w30's across the board don't seam to be built as well as 5w30, there maybe exceptions but as a general rule 5w30's and 0w30's are where the manu's put best effort, likely because those weights are being spec'd by auto manu's and 10w30 isn't anymore. As far as trying different things then redline, I couldn't agree more. There is zero doubt of redline's success, week in week out, not 100% but by far killed more ticks then anything else. Also the long term wear numbers are even beating PUP on the same page, by a lot, so there is also that. So at this point that seams to be the best bet, but it "might" be the best bet because we haven't had a large enough pool trying a large enough options. Whatever gets the job done I'm 100% for.
 

500rider86

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A lot of guys have tuned out of oil thread, but pass this info on. Search the board, many if not most of the cam fails the owner has used a non moly oil. And the science behind this phenomenon is clear on page 11. Non moly oil wears your cam TEN times 200ppm moly, and 5 times more then the average 50ppm moly. Read the science and the graph page 11 pdf. Who still wants to run a non moly oil in their engine?

Not sure I buy this completely. It’s not Ram specific. High amounts of moly can lead to oil pump failures I believe. But based on what a lot of people on here are saying I’d agree the rams run better with it.
 

crackerjack1957

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Not sure I buy this completely. It’s not Ram specific. High amounts of moly can lead to oil pump failures I believe. But based on what a lot of people on here are saying I’d agree the rams run better with it.
Never heard of moly leading to oil pump failures.
 

R.L.K.

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Ha haha Molybdenum can't cause an oil pump issue [emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787]

Maybe way too much powder moly supplement or something like that , but an oil with a Molybdenum additive certainly couldn't cause an oil pump issue [emoji1360]

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