Exhaust bolts

jonnyques · Sep 8, 2016

Does anyone know a brand and part number for after market hardened exhaust manifold bolts?
2015 ram sport, 5.7 hemi
The factory bolts at the end of the manifold tend to break after 50k. A tech for a companie that just goes to shops removing broken bolts told me to plan for it. Suggested replacing before they brake with a harder after market bolt set. He couldn't tell me a ram part number but recommended ARP. I've contacted them but they do not have sets at this time.
Does anyone know a company that makes a performance set of exhaust manifold bolts for the 5.7?
I just want to save money down the road, by fixing the issue now.
Thanks

nickpohlaandp · Sep 8, 2016

I just installed my headers over this past weekend and I'm pretty sure the pitch is 3/8-16 (it could be metric 10mm x 1.5, I'd double check before doing anything). Personally, if you're not planning on doing headers, I'd leave it alone. My truck has just over 43k miles on it and the stock bolts came out with no problem whatsoever. All I did was spray them down with a little Aerokroil and let them sit for about 10 minutes before removing the stock hardware.

DILLIGAF · Sep 8, 2016

Stage 8 bolts are what I used, I wouldn't trust the factory bolts to many threads on them breaking.

nickpohlaandp · Sep 8, 2016

Keep in mind, the most important thing when installing the bolts is to use anti-seize on the bolt threads. You DO NOT want to over torque them. You are screwing into aluminum threads, and if you try to over tighten them, you will pull the threads out of the head. The torque spec for the bolts is only 18 ft. lbs.

Stage 8 bolts are cool and all, but IMO they are more of a PITA than they are worth. Once you install your headers, heat cycle them once or twice, let the engine completely cool, like overnight, and go back and re-torque the bolts until they stabilize. If you do that, you shouldn't have to worry about them again. Stage 8 bolts are nifty in the fact that the bolts can't back out, but that's not what you're dealing with when you install headers. With headers, the header flange and cylinder head expand at different rates, further crushing the gasket. This will give the illusion that the bolts have backed out because when you go to re-torque them they will move, but what in fact has happened is the gasket has crushed some, allowing more "space" to be taken up by reapplying the 18 ft. lbs. of torque. If I wanted to deal with the hassle of stage 8's ever again, I wouldn't install the locks until I had heat cycled the setup once or twice and re-torqued.

Bee1971 · Sep 8, 2016

I was thinking of doing the same thing on my 2011

Remove the factory exhaust manifolds , bring them to my engine machine shop , have them planed , reinstall

Again , like the original poster asked

Part #s for the factory bolts or part #s for aftermarket , using the factory exhaust manifolds , factory gaskets , factory heat shields , NOT HEADERS

Thanx

nickpohlaandp · Sep 8, 2016

Seems like a lot of unnecessary work. Why not just remove the stock bolts and reinstall them one at a time with anti seize, or if you're that worried about it, throw some grade 8 bolts in there, with anti seize of course. There's no sense in breaking the seal on the manifold if it's not leaking.

Bee1971 · Sep 8, 2016

Because when they snap flush with the head

These are the ones that typically snap , stud with nut for heat shield , so a typical grade 8 bolt will not work

https://www.amazon.com/Mopar-5-7L-Engine-Exhaust-Manifold/dp/B00F64SAPM

Bee1971 · Sep 8, 2016

Found these

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...se1-_-dorman&gclid=CKeaxeuOgM8CFYQkgQodVvMAzA

2003-2008

nickpohlaandp · Sep 8, 2016

Well there you go!

Bee1971 · Sep 8, 2016

Nope

After making a call , was told for years 2003 - 2008

So , next

nickpohlaandp · Sep 8, 2016

Too bad. Dorman makes a good fastener.

Do you have a leaking manifold?

hoe... · Sep 8, 2016

Just pull one out and take to your local supplier. Replace with bolt and washer and torque to spec.
Use anti sieze. Don't worry about grade 8, waste of money @ 18ft/lb....

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

14hemiexpress · Sep 8, 2016

I replaced with factory bolts big problem is the manifold warps and that's what's causeing the bolts to break. They aren't high quality bolts in the first place but my manifold was like a damn seesaw

nickpohlaandp · Sep 8, 2016

14hemiexpress said:
I replaced with factory bolts big problem is the manifold warps and that's what's causeing the bolts to break. They aren't high quality bolts in the first place but my manifold was like a damn seesaw

Were you having an exhaust leak issue? I'm just trying to figure out why anyone's messing with this if there's no leak.

jonnyques · Sep 8, 2016

Thanks bee, and that's what I found. References to older units, not a 2015.
Im not installing headers. This is just to avoid dealing with a sheared off exhaust manifold bolt. And bee is correct. It's the end bolt with a stud on it to mount the heat shield. The guts at my dealership say if you replace them one at a time, you won't have gasket issues.
To replace them our of warranty after braking is about 5hrs work if all goes well. If they have to call the machine shop guy in to remove it... He charges another 200.now you need gaskets etc. Over all it becomes very expensive.
Replace the bolts with a better than factory bolt... Saves you big $$.
My buddy has a 2014 50k...right side just broke. As the machine shop guy says.... They all will brake.

nickpohlaandp · Sep 8, 2016

I had 43k on mine when I just removed them to install headers last weekend. Didn't have a single issue getting them out. Just spray them with aerokroil or some type of penetrating oil before you remove them.

Wild one · Sep 8, 2016

nickpohlaandp said:
I had 43k on mine when I just removed them to install headers last weekend. Didn't have a single issue getting them out. Just spray them with aerokroil or some type of penetrating oil before you remove them.

You're assuming every truck is the same as yours i'm guessing by your post. Not everybody is as lucky as you were,lol. Talk to any tech and they'll tell you it's not uncommon to have to weld a nut to what's left of the broken stud to get it out.

Hydrasport · Sep 9, 2016

Bee1971 said:
Found these

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...se1-_-dorman&gclid=CKeaxeuOgM8CFYQkgQodVvMAzA

2003-2008

I bought that Bowman bolt set from Summit for my 2013 5.7. The 4 studs are a little too long. I cut them to the OEM length and installed everything back with no problems. I've tried the OEM bolts and studs on my sons truck and they only lasted a year. That's why I am trying the Bowman kit.

Bee1971 · Sep 10, 2016

Your saying the Dorman kit works

But you have to cut the 4 studs that enter the block , or the stud part for the nuts for heat shields

The other bolts are fine and correct length

Bee1971 · Sep 10, 2016

Mopar
BOLT, SCREW AND WASHER. Mounting. Exhaust Manifold, Hex. Upper. M8x1.25x46.00. Middle. .
This genuine part fits your 2011 Dodge Ram 1500.
[M8X1.25X46.00], M8X1.25X46.00. [M8x1.25x46.0], Exhaust Manifold, Exhaust Manifold To Cylinder Block, Exhaust Manifold To Cylinder Head, Exhaust Manifold To Cylinder Head Crew Cab, Mega Cab, Quad Cab, Regular Cab, To Cylinder Head.
Stock Code
06507746AA ; 06507643AA

Mopar
STUD. Mounting. Double Ended. Upper. M8X1.25XM6X1.00X73.00. Corner. .
This genuine part fits your 2011 Dodge Ram 1500.
Exhaust Manifold To Cylinder Head, Exhaust Manifold To Cylinder Head Crew Cab.
Stock Code
06509544AA

Dorman - Click On Link Then Specs
Dorman Products - 03211

Exhaust bolts

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