Frustrated picking Syn Oil

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RoadKing

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I have friends at work that own Ram trucks. When I ask them what oil they use they say, "I do not know, what ever Syn they use at the dealership"

I want to use the best I can easily get but at this point I have no idea.

AmsOil has cool test that show they are they best on 4 out of 6 test they do buts its the Signature Series but its not API certified, plus its seems like it will be hard to get with out ordering. Ram wants me to use API to honor warranty. By they Redline did poorly in AmsOil test.

Everyone I know that does not have a Ram uses Mobile-1 , but I read on here Ram owners say Mobile-1 makes the HEMI tick worse. I do not hear it yet and do not want to.

I was leaning toward AmsOil initially but not so sure how the API version XL holds up against other leading brands. Like to get the Signature Series seems like it is the leader in testing but not API certified.

I was sold on RP because lots of people love it and seems they have really good Syn Oil filters. But RP no longer has molly, ( looks like AmsOil 10k mile oil XL does not use it either and its supposedly better than the AmsOil OE oil that does).

Redline did poorly in AmsOil test (Supposedly independent test)


I am leaning to Castro Edge at this point


I welcome any thoughts because I do not know what to get at this point really.
 

bloombloom88

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The oil guru aka burla will chime in soon. I run amsoil in my truck but will be switching to redline soon
 

Cliff p

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toofart

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Some guys get 300,000 miles using Brand X oil. Most guys don't keep vehicles more than 6 years. Don't overthink it, just change the oil regularly and you're all set.
 

audio1der

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There are many options, and you can always try one after another until you find one which works for you. Penzoil Platinum is one I haven't tried, but scores well.
Doing some reading at Bobistheoilguy's site may be your best best but don't forget; you're not tied to a brand, so see what works best for you. As stated above, what works best for one may not be for the next guy (based on conditions/how you drive, etc)
 

RamHemi5.7

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it has been said many times redline is very good.
 

KLRpanda

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I use amsoil. and it's the has been the coolest oil I've ran even with it running through my turbo.
 
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RoadKing

RoadKing

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which one OE, XL, or Signature Series?
 

HOTRODHARLEY

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Joe Gibb's Driven Racing Oil FR20. That's just the name brand and NO it's not a racing oil. This is a specifically engineered oil for our VVT 5.7L HEMI'S. These guys are top notch in the oil industry. Check out their website. They have all kinds of OIL info.

Driven Racing Oil

Also high end oils without an API cert. are considered to over exceed that certification basically meaning their oil is TOO good... That's what I've read. And when it comes to oil a person can read a hundred different things and still not get a straight answer. It's like taking vitamins. Are they really doing anything..? Who knows. A person just does it in good faith. Same thing with oil...
 

Nubster

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I know I don't want to order oil online and there's no place in my area to buy Redline or Amsoil, so I'm trying to decide on something off the shelf. I've been reading some over at Bob's and really, it doesn't help much. Between the tech talk I don't understand and the varying opinions, I'm pretty much just as confused leaving there as I was going in. From what I gather, the general consensus seems to be:

- Anything from a major brand is going to work well
- Dino is just as good as syn unless you want a lot of miles between changes
- Filter is very important and FRAM isn't the devil, at least not the TG and Ultra
 

03MopaRamman

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I don't read about it anymore and have moved on from Mobil 1 to RP and now Redline which quiets the valvetrain the best and has good "Stick to The Cold Parts" properties ?? for my MDS Hemi (5w20) that sits 5 months a year in storage for the occassional start-up.

Castrol Edge I found with all the additives that the Oil looked too dirty at 3K Miles even as Synthetic so I don't use it anymore even in my Ol 276K KM Ram.

On 5.7L Motor Number two (MDS and EGR Disabled) It runs Rotella 0W40 Synthetic like the 6.4 Motors (Latest TSB) and the Long K&N M-3001 Filter.
 
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Burla

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The oil guru aka burla will chime in soon. I run amsoil in my truck but will be switching to redline soon

I was going to stay out of this one but I cannot let you down. I would say all the good info is already in the oil thread. The OP is leaning on CE, that sounds like a good plan that is good oil except for low calcium and high noack. They make up for the low calcium by adding a ton of magnesium, I think as far as TBN it raises the numbers and has great TBN. If you want an OTC oil then Penzoil either platinum or Ultra bow CE away, great calcium and great noack numbers and great TBN. That is why it is the number one brand with the oil guys on BITOG. If you engine gets loud, ask me for another oil recommendation but until then Penzoil is going to be the best you can get OTC.
 
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kkreit01

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I plan to use API certified, and one which meets Chrysler's spec (that excludes Mobil1), as long as I have my powertrain warranty. I can buy Pennzoil Platinum off any shelf, which meets this criteria. That's just me. The next guy can run 10w40 Wolf's Head oil for 15,000 miles. That's his prerogative. Guess who will have the easiest claim if an engine-related failure would occur? Neither -- it will be the guy who goes to the dealer for every oil change.

Asking about the best oil, is like asking about the "best tires", your favorite color, best speakers, etc. Many will have a difference of opinion.
 

tjones524

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I've ran pennzoil platinum in all 3 of my recent cars.

2001 corvette
2002 trans am ws6

And now my ram, it reduced hemi tick to hardly anything, and both of my cars had ls1 engines, which are known for piston slap, it made that quiet as well.

Plus it scores well, it's not like the old pennzoil that had a bad rep back in the day.

This stuff is good, hell, I even smelled it one day ( weird ) has a very clean smell, not like most oils. ( not why i use it tho ) lol.
 

Coop

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I know I don't want to order oil online and there's no place in my area to buy Redline or Amsoil, so I'm trying to decide on something off the shelf. I've been reading some over at Bob's and really, it doesn't help much. Between the tech talk I don't understand and the varying opinions, I'm pretty much just as confused leaving there as I was going in. From what I gather, the general consensus seems to be:

- Anything from a major brand is going to work well
- Dino is just as good as syn unless you want a lot of miles between changes
- Filter is very important and FRAM isn't the devil, at least not the TG and Ultra

Well, that's pretty much correct. The advantage of synthetics is the oil actually does not break down (but the additives do), so you can run it longer. You can also get a 0W-20 grade synthetic oil which is better for startup than 5W-20.

I ran my '94 5.9 on plain ol' penzoil on 5K intervals without problems. My '06 used regular vavoline and didn't have any problems (related to that). I had 300K between those two trucks.

I did my first change with Valvoline 0W-20 synthetic, and plan to run 7-10K between changes. The reason I'm going with synthetic this time around is for the longer intervals. So if the weather sucks or i'm just short on time I've got more leeway between changes.
 

namccanna

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I ran Mobil 1 full synthetic in my 07 and now in my 13 and the wife's 13 Durango. I got no complaints. Easily accessible and not overly expensive. Most parts stores run a special on it regularly. I change my oil at 3K without question.
 
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RoadKing

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Going with AmsOil SS. It has around 153 on the Molly, if the HEMI tics I will try Redline. For somereason Ams Oil and RP say there is such a thing as too much Moly. Possibly if it does not bond or distribute evenely there could be wear you do not want, I am not certain just my guess from what they said. I guess there is molybdenum disulfide and molybdenum by itself. Here is some of what RP told me.

The “moly” that most people are actually referring to in lubricants is Molybdenum Disulfide, which is one kind of compound that can be used in lubricants, and it is a cheap, insoluble lubricity enhancer. The “moly” that is listed on an oil analysis sheet is molybdenum (an element) that can be used in molybdenum disulfide and any number of other compounds. Whether on oil contains moly, molybdenum disulfide, or any other molybdenum-containing compound is absolutely zero indication of how well it can lubricate an engine. No Royal Purple engine oils have ever used Molybdenum Disulfide, or any other insoluble additives, because that fact that they don’t dissolve means that there is a higher risk of that additive failing out, being caught in a filter, or accumulating on an internal surface.
 

Burla

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The “moly” that most people are actually referring to in lubricants is Molybdenum Disulfide, which is one kind of compound that can be used in lubricants, and it is a cheap, insoluble lubricity enhancer. The “moly” that is listed on an oil analysis sheet is molybdenum (an element) that can be used in molybdenum disulfide and any number of other compounds. Whether on oil contains moly, molybdenum disulfide, or any other molybdenum-containing compound is absolutely zero indication of how well it can lubricate an engine. No Royal Purple engine oils have ever used Molybdenum Disulfide, or any other insoluble additives, because that fact that they don’t dissolve means that there is a higher risk of that additive failing out, being caught in a filter, or accumulating on an internal surface.

If what he said was true, every oil that had Moly that read on all the VOA's or UOA's would have particles left in the oil container when you poured it in the car. How could you not have settling of an element? However, no oil that you put in your car has an element settling to the bottom. Yet, as I've shown about 100 times PQIA testing shows all major brands except RP and valvoline contain Moly. As stated before, Moly's function is to protect metal to metal wear, WHEN THE OIL IS NOT PRESENT I.E. START UP. And the guy is out of date they actually have three types of Moly or more. look up your VOA or UOA of the oil you have chosen, Ansoil SS and you will see there is plenty of Moly. Anyhow, your plan sounds good and I commend you on your choice. Hope I was helpful.
 

DublDee

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Hey Burla, I'm just curious....I know you use Redline oil, but which filter do you use?

PS: Going to get my Redline next weekend : )
 
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