Future 5.7L Plug Change Questions

lagerstout · May 22, 2017

I was looking around in my engine bay thinking ahead to my spark plug change in about 20K mi. I was wondering for those who have done the change, how do you work around the brake booster on the drivers side? And how do you work around the coolant hoses over the read plug on the passenger side?

Thanks

daveray9 · May 22, 2017

lagerstout said:
I was looking around in my engine bay thinking ahead to my spark plug change in about 20K mi. I was wondering for those who have done the change, how do you work around the brake booster on the drivers side? And how do you work around the coolant hoses over the read plug on the passenger side?

Thanks

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Vw1cncGZ3I

Jwithing · May 22, 2017

Haven't changed them on the truck, but did them twice on my 2006 300C. Easiest plug swap ever, granted the truck probably has a bigger brake booster. Remember, there's 16 spark plugs. When I changed mine, everyone recommend the oem plugs as the best replacement, which made it nice and cheap.

Wild one · May 22, 2017

lagerstout said:
I was looking around in my engine bay thinking ahead to my spark plug change in about 20K mi. I was wondering for those who have done the change, how do you work around the brake booster on the drivers side? And how do you work around the coolant hoses over the read plug on the passenger side?

Thanks

A 1 inch and a 3 inch extension are your friends when it comes to getting the plugs out under the booster and the wire harness on the pass side.A small magnet helps to get the plugs out of the holes,and I use a short piece of rubber hose to re-install the new plugs back in the holes. An air compressor to blow out the holes before you remove the old plugs isn't a bad idea either. There's 2 schools of thought about using Anti-Seize on the new plugs,some guys say no,but i'm of the old school variety that says to use it,lol. A little di-electric grease on the boots doesn't hurt either in my opinion,but I also change my plugs once a racing season,so I like being able to pull the boots off easily every spring.If your coils have never been unplugged the connectors might give you a bit of static,but a small pocket screwdriver or pick should help you release the tabs.You need a 10mm to unbolt the coils,and I like using a 1/4" rachet and 1/4" socket for that job.Don't eat before hand,as you'll be laying on your stomach to get at a couple of the plugs,lol

regularcab2500 · May 22, 2017

Copper plugs are the way to go for sure. Ngk or champion is my preference. Never tried anything different so i dont have experience with the "negatives" of running iridium or platinum but ive read enough that advises against it to not try. Be glad yours is a pickup truck though my dads durango is horrible to work on. To get to the back cylinders is quite a contortionist act and be prepared to use feel over sight. To make it easier buy a 5/8 spark plug socket with a magnet and a ball socket extension. I got one from advance auto for like 15 bucks and it has been a huge help on all of mine and my family's vehicles (all dodges lol).

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lagerstout · May 22, 2017

Thanks for your replies. Depending on the year your truck is built it may have come with 100k Mi plugs. It also has sounded like around here that the ignition setup is slightly different between copper plugged vs platinum/iridium plugged HEMIs.

Burla · May 22, 2017

Just marking this thread, good post that Dave ray video.

14hemiexpress · May 22, 2017

Second the multiple sized extensions and magnet on a stick I also used a rubber boot spark plug socket. Took me about hour to hour and half to do mine. I also pulled the air box to make access a little easier it's not a must but seemed to help.

daveray9 · May 22, 2017

lagerstout said:
Thanks for your replies. Depending on the year your truck is built it may have come with 100k Mi plugs. It also has sounded like around here that the ignition setup is slightly different between copper plugged vs platinum/iridium plugged HEMIs.

09-2012 was 30k copper.

In 2013 they changed the plugs, I believe to iridium and they are 100k.

So, everyone says for the first sets of Gen 4s (09-2012) that the engine likes the coppers and to stay with them... but the 2013s+ went with iridium and its the same engine. Someone please explain that to me.

I've always used NGK iridium on every car and had no issues.

nateinva · May 22, 2017

daveray9 said:
09-2012 was 30k copper.

In 2013 they changed the plugs, I believe to iridium and they are 100k.

So, everyone says for the first sets of Gen 4s (09-2012) that the engine likes the coppers and to stay with them... but the 2013s+ went with iridium and its the same engine. Someone please explain that to me.

I've always used NGK iridium on every car and had no issues.

I was asking about aftermarket coil packs recently and if they were even worth it. It was suggested for us 09-12 guys that we could get the newer coil packs and run the 100k iridium plugs just fine.

I need to change the plugs on my 2011 in the near future and am looking at going this route. With 120k miles on the clock, it may be my only plug change.

lagerstout · May 22, 2017

nateinva said:
I was asking about aftermarket coil packs recently and if they were even worth it. It was suggested for us 09-12 guys that we could get the newer coil packs and run the 100k iridium plugs just fine.

I need to change the plugs on my 2011 in the near future and am looking at going this route. With 120k miles on the clock, it may be my only plug change.

Why are new coil packs required to run iridium plugs in those yrs?

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nateinva · May 22, 2017

lagerstout said:
Why are new coil packs required to run iridium plugs in those yrs?

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A lot of good info discussed in this thread.

http://www.ramforum.com/showthread.php?t=103272

savage_46 · May 23, 2017

regularcab2500 said:
To make it easier buy a 5/8 spark plug socket with a magnet and a ball socket extension. I got one from advance auto for like 15 bucks and it has been a huge help on all of mine and my family's vehicles (all dodges lol).

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This. Huge time saver. I don't do any plug changes without those sockets anymore

chrism1367 · May 23, 2017

My 2013 hemi were copper plugs fyi

daveray9 · May 23, 2017

nateinva said:
I was asking about aftermarket coil packs recently and if they were even worth it. It was suggested for us 09-12 guys that we could get the newer coil packs and run the 100k iridium plugs just fine.

I need to change the plugs on my 2011 in the near future and am looking at going this route. With 120k miles on the clock, it may be my only plug change.

Keep me posted if you do. The COP packs arent cheap...

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daveray9 · May 23, 2017

daveray9 said:
Keep me posted if you do. The COP packs arent cheap...

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Also, if you go on rock auto... the COP part numbers are the same for the 2012 and the 2014... so, not sure which ones you would buy for 'iridium' I believe they are all the same.

daveray9 · May 23, 2017

savage_46 said:
This. Huge time saver. I don't do any plug changes without those sockets anymore

Is that the only tool needed??

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nateinva · May 23, 2017

daveray9 said:
Also, if you go on rock auto... the COP part numbers are the same for the 2012 and the 2014... so, not sure which ones you would buy for 'iridium' I believe they are all the same.

I'd asked in my other thread about the part numbers and hadn't had a chance to look on my own yet. I think someone mentioned 2015 may be different? I'll have to look. I was wondering the same thing...if they'd increased voltage of the coil packs that there must be a different part number.

R.L.K. · May 23, 2017

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savage_46 · May 23, 2017

daveray9 said:
Is that the only tool needed??

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Obviously you need some form of ratchet (air, electric, or hand powered) & plug gapper. I use 2 different mag sockets, short one for #8, and pretty much all of left bank, long one for the rest just so I'm not leaning over the engine more than I have to. Since getting the extension kit, I haven't touched my old school plug sockets.

Future 5.7L Plug Change Questions

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