Header install question

hemi_hawk · Sep 12, 2016

I want to install obx headers, how do i prevent the manafold bolt from breaking and giving me the tick sound ??

DILLIGAF · Sep 13, 2016

Buy stage 8 bolts

hemi_hawk · Sep 13, 2016

DILLIGAF said:
Buy stage 8 bolts

In what thread pitch ?

Bobbo · Sep 13, 2016

hemi_hawk said:
In what thread pitch ?

http://store.stage8.com/p/8916-4-7l-5-7l-dodge-header-kit?pp=96&sort_selection=recommended

nickpohlaandp · Sep 13, 2016

Stage 8 bolts are a gimmick. You don't need stage 8. All they are is a bolt with a PITA lock and circlip design that really does nothing if you understand thermal expansion. Any high quality bolt will do. I think the thread pitch is 8mmx1.5, but don't quote me.

As far as getting your existing manifold bolt out. Park your truck the night before your install. First thing in the morning douche the hardware with Aerokroil, PB Blaster, or some other high quality penetrating oil, and let it sit for 10-15 minutes. They should come out no problem.

PassivAggressor · Sep 13, 2016

If you already have a broken manifold bolt just drill a small hole into it and get an extractor to remove it. Mine came out pretty easy.

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nickpohlaandp · Sep 13, 2016

PassivAggressor said:
If you already have a broken manifold bolt just drill a small hole into it and get an extractor to remove it. Mine came out pretty easy.

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This is a viable solution, but please be careful. Extractors are made from hardened steel, so if you brake one off, you're pretty much screwed. I had to repair a few exhaust manifold bolt threads on my sons '94 Toyota. I didn't even bother with trying an extractor because I've screwed myself in the past. What I did was drilled the whole damn thing out (very carefully, mind you) and fixed the threads with an insert, one of those ones where you oversize tap the hole, thread in the new insert, and hit the 4 little prongs that stick out to smash them in and hold the insert in place. Worked like a champ. It was a bit never racking drilling into the head like that though.

charonblk07 · Sep 13, 2016

Easy way to remove broken bolts, if you have a welder or a friend with a welder, just weld a nut onto the end of the broken bolt and it'll turn right out. The weld doesn't have to be pretty or even half-assed good, just enough to stick the nut to the bolt.

As for Stage 8 bolts, having put 3 sets of headers on my trucks and with a hell of a lot more heat in my exhaust than about 99% of hemi owners they are still in place, still tight, and haven't broken yet. The locking clip is nice but not required and I didn't have them on one set of headers for a long time and they never backed off.

john.dickey · Sep 13, 2016

My kooks came with stage 8 bolts so that was just a bonus. Like it says above, be generous with some quality penetrating oil, tap on the old bolts with a hammer to help the oil seap in the threads and they should come out with ease.

hemi_hawk · Sep 13, 2016

Well i have no broken bolts, just wanting to put new long tubes on and prevent a broken bolt issue in the future.

So would grade 8 bolts be ok ? Or what do you guys recommend?

nickpohlaandp · Sep 13, 2016

Grade 8 is plenty good. You'll need something that has a small socket size though. If you get a standard Grade 8 bolt from the hardware store it's probably going to be a 13mm or 14mm head size. You need something that's stepped down to around a 10mm like what comes with the JBA's. Why not just use the JBA supplied hardware? It is more than adequate.

hemi_hawk · Sep 14, 2016

nickpohlaandp said:
Grade 8 is plenty good. You'll need something that has a small socket size though. If you get a standard Grade 8 bolt from the hardware store it's probably going to be a 13mm or 14mm head size. You need something that's stepped down to around a 10mm like what comes with the JBA's. Why not just use the JBA supplied hardware? It is more than adequate.

Using obx headers

nickpohlaandp · Sep 14, 2016

hemi_hawk said:
Using obx headers

10-4. Personally I'd look into ARP, or use Stage 8's and don't mess with the clips unless you really want to. I used only ARP on my turbo engines I used to sell, but the were all standard thread, not metric. I'm sure ARP sells metric though. If they don't that's stupid. Everything is going metric nowadays.

StoneDude76 · Sep 14, 2016

Not to hijack this thread but what goes into installing the OBX headers? Will I need to lift the engine?

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nickpohlaandp · Sep 14, 2016

I don't see any reason to lift the engine for ANY header install in these trucks. There's room for days.

Wild one · Sep 14, 2016

StoneDude76 said:
Not to hijack this thread but what goes into installing the OBX headers? Will I need to lift the engine?

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Lifting the engine makes it easier to get the retaining bolt out of the dipstick. I know a few guys have backed the bolt out as far as they could then cut it and a few people have cut the bracket itself,but the proper way is to lift the engine off the mount high enough to get the bolt past the motor mount.

nickpohlaandp · Sep 14, 2016

I've seen that about that bolt so many times on this forum and I just don't get it. I had no problem accessing the bolt whatsoever, even putting it back in after the header install was easy.

DILLIGAF · Sep 14, 2016

I just bent the tube and relocated it. no need to unbolt it.

Mishalnr · Sep 15, 2016

Kooks locking header bolts

nickpohlaandp · Sep 15, 2016

DILLIGAF said:
I just bent the tube and relocated it. no need to unbolt it.

I removed my tube (kindof a PITA once you get the bolt out because you still have to fight the o-ring) and once I finished my install I just reinstalled it, feeding it between the #5 and #7 primaries. It was really pretty simple. The only modification I had to make was to the mounting whiz bang doohickey that used to bolt to the stock manifold bolt/stud thing. I used a pair of alternative lifestyle pliers and cut a slit out where the bolt hole was, loosened a valve cover bolt, and slid the mount in there. Works great, and I didn't have to alter the dipstick bends at all.

Header install question

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