Header, throttle body, and intake. Need suggestions...

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Fishman1113

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So two of my manifold bolts on the passenger side have snapped, and I want to pull them before I snap an entire side. I figure if I'm going to the trouble I may as well add headers. And if I'm doing that I may as well do a throttle body, spacer ( not sure if it makes a difference if I'm adding a throttle body), and cold air intake. I'd love everyone's thoughts on what they have done. The pros and cons to what they have done. And anything else that you would do while it's all being done. I may add a catch can. I plan on doing that anyhow. I will be adding a tuner later but don't think I can swing headers, intake and a tuner. Wife would probably shoot me. [emoji1]

2012 1500 5.7L 4x4


Here's what I'm looking at now....
• JBA 1 7/8" silver ceramic coated headers. (With Y pipe I guess)
• one of the Moes throttle bodies. Not sure of the mm size yet.
• one of the K&N intakes

Thanks in advance. I know it's a lot of questions all at once. Sorry.


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ramittome

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Go long tubes headers if you can afford them. If not, shorties are only worth while if you replace the Y.

Don't waste the money on a K&N. Go either Vararam or S&B, or spend the extra money on the long tube headers.

Thought they only made one size bigger throttle body for your truck? Either way, don't waste the money on a spacer. It will do nothing. Point is to get cold air in quicker. Spacer adds my length to the intake, even though it's only an inch, and does nothing in the process. There's so many twist and turns inside the motor, an inch of aluminum will not cause any "swirling" effect in that short space and once past the throttle body, the air goes every which way anyway.
 

Wild one

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So two of my manifold bolts on the passenger side have snapped, and I want to pull them before I snap an entire side. I figure if I'm going to the trouble I may as well add headers. And if I'm doing that I may as well do a throttle body, spacer ( not sure if it makes a difference if I'm adding a throttle body), and cold air intake. I'd love everyone's thoughts on what they have done. The pros and cons to what they have done. And anything else that you would do while it's all being done. I may add a catch can. I plan on doing that anyhow. I will be adding a tuner later but don't think I can swing headers, intake and a tuner. Wife would probably shoot me. [emoji1]

2012 1500 5.7L 4x4


Here's what I'm looking at now....
• JBA 1 7/8" silver ceramic coated headers. (With Y pipe I guess)
• one of the Moes throttle bodies. Not sure of the mm size yet.
• one of the K&N intakes

Thanks in advance. I know it's a lot of questions all at once. Sorry.


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Don't go with the 1 7/8" JBA's,get the newer 1 3/4",they fit better,and will give you slightly more bottom end grunt then the bigger JBA's will. Save your money on the throttle body and spacer ,instead spend it on a tuner with either a greene or hemifever custom tune. Do the headers and tuner first,they'll give you the biggest bang for your money,Down the road you can do an cold air intake,for now you can mod your stock airbox with a ram air tube that you can make yourself for probably 20 bucks in pieces from the local hardware store.Do a search on here,you should find pics of the stock airbox mod.The factory airbox isn't all that bad as far as cold air intakes go,especially if you add a green filter and mod it slightly.If you can swing it a catch can is a good mod,Moroso makes a good one that uses a drain valve that you can install a hose on and drain it into a catch basin under the truck.I'm not a fan of the cans that you have to unscrew to empty,contary to 90% of what the guys on here will tell you,look for a catch can that uses a 1/4 turn ball valve to dump,if you don't want to buy Moroso's can.
 
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Fishman1113

Fishman1113

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Awesome info! Thanks!


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Wild one

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Awesome info! Thanks!


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Also throw the ugly plastic engine cover in storage till you sell the truck,it does nothing but trap heat under it,and keeps the intake heat soaked. A 180 thermostat is another decent mod,even if you don't go with a tuner to reset the fan.The truck will still run cooler if it's moving,even if you haven't reset the electric fan.
 

HammerHead

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On the broken header bolts get yourself a 90 degree drill if you have broken bolts on the lower row. My small cordless 12v drill was to big to drill straight on the broken bolt head. And get a 34 piece extractor set to remove them. On the Mid pipe be prepared because they are a Pain. If your going long tubes get a sawzaw to cut the stock mid pipe or you will need to remove the transmission support crossmember.

I would keep the stock air box, long tube headers and tuner with a custom tune is all I would do. Start with those 3 and go from there. Good luck and keep us posted with your progress.
 
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Fishman1113

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On the broken header bolts get yourself a 90 degree drill if you have broken bolts on the lower row. My small cordless 12v drill was to big to drill straight on the broken bolt head. And get a 34 piece extractor set to remove them. On the Mid pipe be prepared because they are a Pain. If your going long tubes get a sawzaw to cut the stock mid pipe or you will need to remove the transmission support crossmember.



I would keep the stock air box, long tube headers and tuner with a custom tune is all I would do. Start with those 3 and go from there. Good luck and keep us posted with your progress.



Thanks! I have a Dewalt 90 degree piece for my 20volt max drill. Will that work? I was told that removing the busted ones can be a huge pain. Was thinking about having a garage do it, but I'd really like to do it myself. I grew up working every evening on cars with my dad so I'm fairly handy. I just don't want to mess nothing up. What extraction set do you recommend? Or does it matter?


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chrisp2493

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I used a torch to heat shock the broken stud. They come right out. Just don't catch the evap tubes on fire. Don't ask...
I've also seen people mig weld a nut on to the end of the stud to use to back it out.
 

HammerHead

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Thanks! I have a Dewalt 90 degree piece for my 20volt max drill. Will that work? I was told that removing the busted ones can be a huge pain. Was thinking about having a garage do it, but I'd really like to do it myself. I grew up working every evening on cars with my dad so I'm fairly handy. I just don't want to mess nothing up. What extraction set do you recommend? Or does it matter?


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Irwin Hanson extractor set is what I went with and it had everything I needed. Not sure about the Dewalt 90, but it's very tight on the bottom row. Top row is not to bad.
Just pray the bolts broke off flat so you can drill a pilot hole. Go slow and drill your hole deep enough so the extractor can dig in, if the pilot hole is to shallow it will strip out.
 
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Fishman1113

Fishman1113

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I used a torch to heat shock the broken stud. They come right out. Just don't catch the evap tubes on fire. Don't ask...
I've also seen people mig weld a nut on to the end of the stud to use to back it out.



Haha. It's not hard to torch the wrong things that's for sure. I'll use a heat sink/shield for sure. I've seen the bolt trick but I'd be concerned about accidentally welding it to the block. Haha. I guess I'll see what it looks like when I get the manifold off.


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HammerHead

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I used a torch to heat shock the broken stud. They come right out. Just don't catch the evap tubes on fire. Don't ask...
I've also seen people mig weld a nut on to the end of the stud to use to back it out.

Welding a nut to it is by far the best.
For the install one tool you must have for the new header bolt is in the pic.
Must Have.:love51:
Edit: wrench is for the stage 8 header bolts.
 

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chrisp2493

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Yes the ratchet wrenches are a lifesaver. Get a bunch of socket extensions and a swivel head. On my 3rd gen I could reach almost every single bolt with a ratchet and a swivel head
 

HammerHead

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Haha. It's not hard to torch the wrong things that's for sure. I'll use a heat sink/shield for sure. I've seen the bolt trick but I'd be concerned about accidentally welding it to the block. Haha. I guess I'll see what it looks like when I get the manifold off.


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Aluminum heads, no worries about welding it to the heads.
 
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Fishman1113

Fishman1113

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I have an amazing assortment of ratchets and swivels so I'm probably good. I even have some ratcheting wrenches but I don't have ratcheting wrenches with swivel heads! Guess I gotta call Snapon. Lol


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chrisp2493

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Irwin Hanson extractor set is what I went with and it had everything I needed. Not sure about the Dewalt 90, but it's very tight on the bottom row. Top row is not to bad.

Just pray the bolts broke off flat so you can drill a pilot hole. Go slow and drill your hole deep enough so the extractor can dig in, if the pilot hole is to shallow it will strip out.



Be careful drilling. My dad started to get frustrated and rushed and dicked the hole up because the drill bit slipped. Drilling a steel stud in an aluminum head requires a lot of care. It was a good thing we were pulling the heads for a blown gasket, we were able to drill it all the way out and retap it.
 
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Fishman1113

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Irwin Hanson extractor set is what I went with and it had everything I needed. Not sure about the Dewalt 90, but it's very tight on the bottom row. Top row is not to bad.

Just pray the bolts broke off flat so you can drill a pilot hole. Go slow and drill your hole deep enough so the extractor can dig in, if the pilot hole is to shallow it will strip out.


This a good one?
efb548397cb09e9d6e36cfd59f76c0de.jpg



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Fishman1113

Fishman1113

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So I think these are the headers I'm going with. Anyone have any experience with these?


c32540c3f2a23d40da1ebb72aaf0ccde.jpg


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HammerHead

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Be careful drilling. My dad started to get frustrated and rushed and dicked the hole up because the drill bit slipped. Drilling a steel stud in an aluminum head requires a lot of care. It was a good thing we were pulling the heads for a blown gasket, we were able to drill it all the way out and retap it.

Yes be very careful, I went slow at 1/4 drill speed, slowly letting the bit chip away. Took me about 45 minutes to do just 1. But, it payed off.
 
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