Jay Greene Racing Tune

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Rupert

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Tuners pay for licensing software. They , as a group, are somewhat secretive about how they do what they do.
It makes sense, they invest , not only in the software, but countless hours learning their craft...hopefully without damaging any components. If tuner A told you he adjusts table XYZ by + 1.5% to get the truck to shift with the absolute minimum of TQ management, but if it goes to 2% then it can cause problems , and you take that info to Tuner "B", Tuner A just gave away a parameter that took him , say 8 hours to develop?
Have you ever seen tuning software?
I have , for my thundermax on my Harley, it uses targeted AFR with two wideband ( one per cylinder) AFR sensors and NO knock sensors. I can adjust various curves, fuel timing etc. at every RPM, by using the software. I got the bike right and I don't touch it. It has, probably 5% of the tuning capabilities as the Hemi, and what do I do? ...well when ( not very often) it pings I let off and/ or downshift.....other than that I ride it like the cops are after me. It , like both my Hemi's love the abuse.

If someone has a "race tune" from Jay or anyone else, great, but other than a few vague statements I don't think anyone really expects a complete answer. Do you?

I'm not paying my tuner to tell me what / how he did, I'm paying him to take the logs I send and my input and work their magic.

Now there has ben a few cases I'm aware of where the tuner didn't rescale the tune for new injectors, resulting in a no start and the tuner acknowledged he fixed it by rescaling...but that doesn't give away any magic.

Want a race tune? Diablo can help you with that. If your bolt on only Just add 104 unleaded 50/50 with 93 octane, make a pass, log it, check for knock. no knock ? ( shouldn't be any) add 2 points timing across all ( six) RPM parameters making sure to include the MBT parameter and make a pass, log it check for knock. make sure you turn off ESP.
If your running a cam long tunes etc, add 4 points, make a pass, log it check for knock. Or start at 2 deg and go up.
If you have any LT knock( other than some ST during a shift), subtract 1 point for every degree of LT in the parameter/ RPM range the knock occurs.

when you are satisfied of your results and have anew PB, make a copy of last tune written in your handheld, name it race tune.
Or just write down all the parameters you set and use them next time.

reflash your regular tune, after resetting all parameters, before you add fuel.

No this method probably doesn't do as much as a race tune from your tuner of choice, but its cheaper and much quicker, just pay close attention to what you are doing and write stuff down, and lastly check for ST/ LT knock , OK. ??

ST= Short Term
LT = Long Term
 

sicmadek

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Tuners pay for licensing software. They , as a group, are somewhat secretive about how they do what they do.
It makes sense, they invest , not only in the software, but countless hours learning their craft...hopefully without damaging any components. If tuner A told you he adjusts table XYZ by + 1.5% to get the truck to shift with the absolute minimum of TQ management, but if it goes to 2% then it can cause problems , and you take that info to Tuner "B", Tuner A just gave away a parameter that took him , say 8 hours to develop?
Have you ever seen tuning software?
I have , for my thundermax on my Harley, it uses targeted AFR with two wideband ( one per cylinder) AFR sensors and NO knock sensors. I can adjust various curves, fuel timing etc. at every RPM, by using the software. I got the bike right and I don't touch it. It has, probably 5% of the tuning capabilities as the Hemi, and what do I do? ...well when ( not very often) it pings I let off and/ or downshift.....other than that I ride it like the cops are after me. It , like both my Hemi's love the abuse.

If someone has a "race tune" from Jay or anyone else, great, but other than a few vague statements I don't think anyone really expects a complete answer. Do you?

I'm not paying my tuner to tell me what / how he did, I'm paying him to take the logs I send and my input and work their magic.

Now there has ben a few cases I'm aware of where the tuner didn't rescale the tune for new injectors, resulting in a no start and the tuner acknowledged he fixed it by rescaling...but that doesn't give away any magic.

Want a race tune? Diablo can help you with that. If your bolt on only Just add 104 unleaded 50/50 with 93 octane, make a pass, log it, check for knock. no knock ? ( shouldn't be any) add 2 points timing across all ( six) RPM parameters making sure to include the MBT parameter and make a pass, log it check for knock. make sure you turn off ESP.
If your running a cam long tunes etc, add 4 points, make a pass, log it check for knock. Or start at 2 deg and go up.
If you have any LT knock( other than some ST during a shift), subtract 1 point for every degree of LT in the parameter/ RPM range the knock occurs.

when you are satisfied of your results and have anew PB, make a copy of last tune written in your handheld, name it race tune.
Or just write down all the parameters you set and use them next time.

reflash your regular tune, after resetting all parameters, before you add fuel.

No this method probably doesn't do as much as a race tune from your tuner of choice, but its cheaper and much quicker, just pay close attention to what you are doing and write stuff down, and lastly check for ST/ LT knock , OK. ??

ST= Short Term
LT = Long Term

Adding 8* of timing lmao good luck with that
 

Rupert

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Not sure if Your kidding. I don't see where I mistyped ..I wouldn't go above 4, even with a very modified engine and running all 104.........unless my tuner told me to.
 

sicmadek

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Not sure if Your kidding. I don't see where I mistyped ..I wouldn't go above 4, even with a very modified engine and running all 104.........unless my tuner told me to.

Timing is no different between a cam and bolt ons. A custom tune is only about 2* more max than the stock tune. Under the curve timing varies between tuners.
 

Rupert

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Yes there is.
E.G.
My tuner told me I could go right to 4 deg, based on my build, and its maximum potential

Same tuner on another build with less mods recommended 2 deg.

The idea is to get the most you can without going to far. There is a point where more is not better.
My tuner made his recommendations based on his knowledge of both drivelines potential, and his tuning.

the Same tuner actually made a race tune for another friend with a 426 with a procharger....4 deg plus whatever magic he does.
 

sicmadek

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Yes there is.
E.G.
My tuner told me I could go right to 4 deg, based on my build, and its maximum potential

Same tuner on another build with less mods recommended 2 deg.

The idea is to get the most you can without going to far. There is a point where more is not better.
My tuner made his recommendations based on his knowledge of both drivelines potential, and his tuning.

the Same tuner actually made a race tune for another friend with a 426 with a procharger....4 deg plus whatever magic he does.

Well do it and go to the track. Let us know how it does.
 

Dubstep Shep

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With your track record how am i supposed to know. Sean wont tell you anyway because thats how he is.

This isn't rocket science. I asked a question, you've refused to answer it.

I also love how you say Sean won't tell me anyways because that's how he is as if it's a bad thing. That's how you are RIGHT NOW except I've never asked Sean so I can't say he's ever refused to tell me. You, on the other hand...
 
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OP
Ramrt1

Ramrt1

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Had 3 days to feel my new Green tune out. I'm really impressed with the tune, mid and top end are strong, truck pulls hard through out the entire power band. At around 95 mph when my truck changes another gear you feel a strong surge and it just keeps pulling. The combination of the 87 mm throttle body, vararam intake, bbk headers and the correct diameter (2.5 inch) of my true dual system with x pipe, cutouts, and pypes m80 race mufflers have proved to be beneficial. The engine is breathing and moving air efficiently.
 

Paluby

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Had 3 days to feel my new Green tune out. I'm really impressed with the tune, mid and top end are strong, truck pulls hard through out the entire power band. At around 95 mph when my truck changes another gear you feel a strong surge and it just keeps pulling. The combination of the 87 mm throttle body, vararam intake, bbk headers and the correct diameter (2.5 inch) of my true dual system with x pipe, cutouts, and pypes m80 race mufflers have proved to be beneficial. The engine is breathing and moving air efficiently.

Should take it to the track and post an ET.
 

Ronan

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So I wrote an email to jay, but haven't gotten a response from. What's the best way to get in touch with him??? I do NOT do Facebook, when I google him that's all that comes up...
 

SIhemi

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So I wrote an email to jay, but haven't gotten a response from. What's the best way to get in touch with him??? I do NOT do Facebook, when I google him that's all that comes up...

I usually get quicker response from Facebook. Emails take a little longer I've noticed. Still very quick to respond.
 

BlownGP

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Jays a very busy man. With forums, email and the influx of social media I don't know how he does it.
 

sicmadek

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Jays a very busy man. With forums, email and the influx of social media I don't know how he does it.

Yes with him having a normal day job, tuning, designing cams, and working on vehicles i dont know how he sleeps
 

Ronan

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So... He did write me back and we are now in the process of working together to make things happen for my truck. Does any body else here have the six speed and prefer to drive in tow haul?? I HATE how these tranny stay in a high gear, and then I gotta floor it to downshift...... I am always either in tow/haul or manually shifting. There has to be a way to have it shift like t/h and also use sixth on the hwy. I can't be the only one


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

sicmadek

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So... He did write me back and we are now in the process of working together to make things happen for my truck. Does any body else here have the six speed and prefer to drive in tow haul?? I HATE how these tranny stay in a high gear, and then I gotta floor it to downshift...... I am always either in tow/haul or manually shifting. There has to be a way to have it shift like t/h and also use sixth on the hwy. I can't be the only one


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Which axel ratio do you have?
 

Ronan

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Which axel ratio do you have?



I have the stock 3:92, running 305/45/22's. It just shifts so much better for my driving style in t/h. I just have to remember to turn it off on the hwy.
 

sicmadek

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I have the stock 3:92, running 305/45/22's. It just shifts so much better for my driving style in t/h. I just have to remember to turn it off on the hwy.

Mine shifts better than i could ask for on jays tune. Its been so long since i ran a stock tune i couldnt tell you how it was.
 

Kotta390

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I know my 8spd does excellent on shifts with my FRP compared to what it used to be stock.
 

Hemi450hp

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I have the stock 3:92, running 305/45/22's. It just shifts so much better for my driving style in t/h. I just have to remember to turn it off on the hwy.

Sean actually sets the shift pattern for both normal driving and tow haul mode. If you prefer how it drives while in tow/haul, then just let him know that, and he will set your tune up to shift like that all the time.
 
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