JBA longtubes with Y installed

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shane1981

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Dyno runs don't lie, watch the video, even Moe's said on here quite a few times 1 3/4 are best for our trucks.

I have 1 7/8 cauz JBA's are the cheapest headers that are bolt on. If I had the cash I would of gotten 1 3/4's

Lucky for me i'm not trying to make a brick into a sports car, So the cheap headers with a little less down range torque were ok for me.
that video is useless because in no way shape form or fashion can you compare the motor to our motor. yes everybody says 1 3/4 are better for our trucks and I also have 1 7/8 but in a 8 speed 3.92 you spend way more time in the upper rpm range with that combo than with other combos hints the more time your in that range the more power you make for a longer amount of time which makes you go faster or at least the same for less cost. what I'm getting at is I bet there isn't enough difference in the two hp wise and the cost difference is pretty substantial but if your running say a 6 speed with 3.21 then I'd say 1 3/4 but an 8 speed any gear I'd say both would be fine and I'd bet the 1 7/8 would be a little better up top oh and also Matt has said before that 8 speed 3.92 is a whole different animal and 1 7/8 will do just fine. obx is half the cost

tuned by Jay Greene
 

DILLIGAF

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OBX end up the same as JBA's in Canada once you add up import and shipping.

JBA's fit like ****, But I knew that ahead of time...lol.. Yes 1 7/8 work fine in my 6 speed. Im not trying to say otherwise. But if you want best of the best JBA's aren't it, thats all im saying.
 

Kotta390

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First off they do not make enough discernable difference in the 8spd with the 3.92 combo. For racing they are just as good if not better than the 1 3/4 because of the shift recovery of these trucks. The best thing about these headers are the difference in price between them and the ARH and Stainless Works. I'm not in ANY way saying they are not good headers, because if they were more affordable I would buy them. But time and time again from personal experience of others, they show NO sign of any low end loss while daily driving. So again, it's NOT required to buy the high end ones to get the power you want. Engines nowadays are not like what they were back in the 60s, 70s, 80s and 90s especially with VVT. With tuning today, if there was a low end loss, you can minipulate the VVT to make up the loss.
 

wrench04

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Lots of great info here.
Who makes a 1 3\4" header? or who would be a good alternate to the JBA Long Tube header? Im in Canada so would like to find a local supplier to save on shipping and brokerage.
 

Moparboss99

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Lots of great info here.
Who makes a 1 3\4" header? or who would be a good alternate to the JBA Long Tube header? Im in Canada so would like to find a local supplier to save on shipping and brokerage.
Depending were you r in Canada I could hook you up with JBA long tubes from my local supplier.

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bassheadhemi

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Lots of great info here.
Who makes a 1 3\4" header? or who would be a good alternate to the JBA Long Tube header? Im in Canada so would like to find a local supplier to save on shipping and brokerage.
Hottexhaust have both stainless work and arh in 1 3/4. My SW with cats costed me a hair above 1600$ shipped to my door. They don't have it in stock so it could take a month to get them but worth the saving imo.

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wrench04

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Are the cats necessary or would it be ok to delete them? I notice some come with and some without. I have a 6.4L. Not sure it if matters.


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PassivAggressor

PassivAggressor

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Are the cats necessary or would it be ok to delete them? I notice some come with and some without. I have a 6.4L. Not sure it if matters.


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Depends on where you live mostly.
 

nickpohlaandp

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There seems to be a ****load of Canadians on this forum, eh? J/K

I just installed my JBA's over the weekend and had a tune ready for them. The headers themselves went on great, no major issues to speak of. As for the Y-pipe, well that seems to be an afterthought on JBA's part, or someone got drunk on a forklift and smashed into their jig, because the Y-pipe didn't like up for ****. That took some serious effort to get it bolted up. At the end of the day, for a full long tube setup, titanium ceramic coated, and mandrel bent Y, all for around $800, I'm not complaining too much.
 

wstacy3

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There seems to be a ****load of Canadians on this forum, eh? J/K

I just installed my JBA's over the weekend and had a tune ready for them. The headers themselves went on great, no major issues to speak of. As for the Y-pipe, well that seems to be an afterthought on JBA's part, or someone got drunk on a forklift and smashed into their jig, because the Y-pipe didn't like up for ****. That took some serious effort to get it bolted up. At the end of the day, for a full long tube setup, titanium ceramic coated, and mandrel bent Y, all for around $800, I'm not complaining too much.



Did you use all the supplied hardware and gasket?


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nickpohlaandp

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Did you use all the supplied hardware and gasket?


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I did, but I doubled up on the collector gaskets after seeing DILLIGAF's problems, glad I did. I think the hardware and gaskets that came with the headers are fine as long as you take your time, use anti-seize, and keep the stepped flange in mind when you bolt them up to the head. Just don't wrench down on the upper or lower bolts all at once. Go slowly and in steps. When you're done it should look like the header flange is raised off the head .020" or so all the way around. No leaks here. I heat cycled them and checked the bolts after letting it cool off. They all stabilized and I'm happy.
 

wstacy3

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So you used 2 header gaskets or 2 gaskets where the ypipe connects?


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wstacy3

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Any leaks? I read some ppl are getting this connection welded


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wstacy3

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Where dod you purchase the extra gaskets?


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DILLIGAF

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Any autoparts store will have them, But if you order JBA headers and JBA Y pipe they both come with 2.

So youll have 4 all youll need is high temp copper RVT to make a nice seal.
 
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