Manifold Bolt Repair and Replacement

So as most of you probably know, I've posted several times in the past months about my engine ticking and broken manifold bolts. I know for a fact that the back 2 bolts on my passenger side that hold the heat shield as well as the manifold are snapped. So my question now is this. Has anyone tackled this repair themselves? I've done my research and it seems that most broken bolts stick out a bit from the block and are fairly easy to turn out. Anybody have any experience with this? Also, if I'm going to do this, I figured I might as well do headers at the same time. What are you guys running??

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Best headers are the ARH, Best Budget headers are the JBA's but they fit like ****, you'll need cargo straps to pursue the Y pipe to fit and you need to dent them to clear the steering shaft.

Get stage 8 bolts and a RemFlex gasket, the Gasket and bolts included with the JBA's are junk.

With Long Tubes you'll also need a Tuner with custom tune. If not the truck runs like ****.

All 4 of my broken studs were snapped flush with the engine block. So I got it repaired under warrenty before swapping to headers...lol...

I had same issues. Cost 900 at exhaust shop to have old removed. 2 studs removed on each side that were flush or broke inside head, and to have JBA Shorties installed. With a tune from Hemifever the truck is night and day as far as performance goes.


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By far the best way to remove the broken studs when they are flush or below flush with the head is to weld a nut on the stud. That's how we do it at my dealer. Messing around with easy outs can be a pain especially if you don't drill the hole properly. I've never failed to get a stud out using the welder.

Tach_tech said:

By far the best way to remove the broken studs when they are flush or below flush with the head is to weld a nut on the stud. That's how we do it at my dealer. Messing around with easy outs can be a pain especially if you don't drill the hole properly. I've never failed to get a stud out using the welder.

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do you also machine, or send out, the manifolds or just replace the bolts?

Tach_tech said:

By far the best way to remove the broken studs when they are flush or below flush with the head is to weld a nut on the stud. That's how we do it at my dealer. Messing around with easy outs can be a pain especially if you don't drill the hole properly. I've never failed to get a stud out using the welder.

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Have you ever had any problems with the head warping after doing this?

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huntergreen said:

do you also machine, or send out, the manifolds or just replace the bolts?

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I read somewhere that a dealer would have the exhaust manifolds machined out so they were perfectly flat, and it it solved the problems. No more broken bolts.

huntergreen said:

do you also machine, or send out, the manifolds or just replace the bolts?

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We have manifolds in stock that have been machined so we always have a fresh straight manifold to use without waiting for the machine shop.

ckeefer58 said:

Have you ever had any problems with the head warping after doing this?

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No I've never had any issues with any warping to the head from the heat of the welder. You're not welding for very long to build up enough heat to cause any issues.