Not Hemi tick, Louder

So, Im getting a very loud Tick/Tapping sound from i think the Driver side valve cover.
I drove the tuck home the sound wasnt there, went in my house for 20 mins and came back out side and craked it up and it instantly has a hellacious tap.

Its throwing a code saying "random misfire" and thats all.
I was due for an oil change so i went ahead and did that, i also changed out all 16 plugs (nothing seemed out of the ordinary)
Friend of mine that used to work for dodge told me its possible a lifter broke, which usually wipes out the cam with it.

Curious if anyone has heard of this happening before.

its a 2014 1500 5.7 with 54k miles

Two things come to mind:

1. With a random misfire issue, it could be an injector that's open and just pouring fuel into the cylinder. Have you noticed a drop in MPG?

2. It could be an exhaust manifold leak caused by a broken bolt, failed gasket or loose fastener. When these first appear, they don't tick until the engine has warmed up and the manifold metal has expanded.

Did the code say which cylinder? Coils, boots, plug and injectors are high cause before thinking the valve train is issue.

If cylinder is known, I would start by swapping the coil/boots with another cylinder set and see if it travels.

If you are still within the powertrain warranty, get the dealer to fix it.

Ive checked all the Header bolts, they are fine and all intact.
Im not so sure about the injector being the issue as i would smell raw fuel from the exhaust especially since i dont have cats.

I cant say forsure on the fuel mileage, i have only had the truck running maybe 5 mins since the sound as appeared, want to keep the damage to a minimum.

Hootbro said:

Did the code say which cylinder? Coils, boots, plug and injectors are high cause before thinking the valve train is issue.

If cylinder is known, I would start by swapping the coil/boots with another cylinder set and see if it travels.

If you are still within the powertrain warranty, get the dealer to fix it.

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It doesnt specify which cylinder. and its hard to determine exactly where the sound is coming from because its so loud.

The truck might be under wareentee, but they will ***** about the catless headers, intake, stall converter, 4.56s and tune..

Id rather upgrade lifters and a healthy cam all at once, if thats what the problem is.

take it to a dealer and let them put it on the machine then they can tell you what the issue is.

ladiesman217 said:

It doesnt specify which cylinder. and its hard to determine exactly where the sound is coming from because its so loud.

The truck might be under wareentee, but they will ***** about the catless headers, intake, stall converter, 4.56s and tune..

Id rather upgrade lifters and a healthy cam all at once, if thats what the problem is.

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Well if the mods make taking it in out of the question, you still need to take it to a shop with decent dealer grade scan tool that can check each cylinder and give a "misfire counter" that will narrow it down to which cylinder or cylinders the problems is at. Same scan tool can also check the ignition and injection pulse waves.

Unless you want to just shotgun parts at it until fixed, it will be dollars saved getting it troubleshot properly with a proper scan tool.

Sounds like you might have lost a keeper on a valve spring. Although the p0300 doesn't make sense without another P code for the affected cylinder. Was P0300 the only DTC when it was scanned?

BlueRT said:

Sounds like you might have lost a keeper on a valve spring. Although the p0300 doesn't make sense without another P code for the affected cylinder. Was P0300 the only DTC when it was scanned?

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Yes thats the only code it threw.

BlueRT said:

Sounds like you might have lost a keeper on a valve spring. Although the p0300 doesn't make sense without another P code for the affected cylinder. Was P0300 the only DTC when it was scanned?

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Had this happen to my 4.6 mustang. Made a hellatious ticking noise. Also beat the crap out of the top of the piston once the valve guide broke and a piece of it started rattling around in there. Happened right after a hig-revving run. What were you doing?

A p0300 doesn't have to be accompanied by any specific cylinder misfire dtcs. That's why it's called a random misfire.

If you had a hard mechanical failure such as a valve spring or a lifter collapsing, you should be getting a code for that particular cylinder, and you should have a bad misfire on the affected cylinder. If you're seriously concerned that it's a lifter failure or some other valve train components, pop the valve covers off and have a look.

Hopefully it is the spring, but I wouldn't bet on it. If you have the louder tick that is something like a bad lifter or a roller, you need not worry you have already been fawked you just don't know it yet. That engine wont continue long, the dealer needs to remove the lifter to save themselves a larger fix shortly. It may already be that the roller has smoothed the cam, which is basically a fatal flaw and it a major repair something like 7k dollars. The issue is if they change the lifter but the Cam is kinda smoothed but not fatal, may be an issue for you down the road. I'm sure the power train warranty will cover it. Do not say anything to the dealer about your service records, let them choose to deny you if they choose, then you have more rights under the law. They have the burden of proof in any warranty issue, trust me I won 13k on a lemon law claim against the dealer. This is the reason why I say hemi tick is not normal, allowing it is like Russian Roulette. Any part of the lifter not doing it's job right, effects the Cam, thus is the bullet in the chamber that will kill that engine. Sometimes you can avoid fatality, but sometimes you can't.

A dude had that "louder" lifter tick here, it was a smoothed cam likely from a faulty roller. if when the cam lob come around and that roller doesn't roll or the lifter doesn't lift, something has to give.

First thing I would do is send a sample of that oil to Blackstone Labs, it will tell the story of wear metals which may even diagnose the problem, but it also will gauge the condition of the oil in case the dealer tries to mess with you. 95% of all UOA's show the oil in suitable condition. If by chance your UOA showed the oil was no good, then you wouldn't have to give the dealer that info. What you are looking for it heavy metal wear that is sitting in oil with good tbn. Case closed.

It had to have happened on start up.

Going to pull the valve covers tonight and see what i find.
Il keep you all updated, and thank you for the responses!

ladiesman217 said:

It had to have happened on start up.

Going to pull the valve covers tonight and see what i find.
Il keep you all updated, and thank you for the responses!

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Are you open to having the vehicle diagnosed by a certified dealer? - Kevin T, Social Connect Team

ladiesman217 said:

Ive checked all the Header bolts, they are fine and all intact.
Im not so sure about the injector being the issue as i would smell raw fuel from the exhaust especially since i dont have cats.

I cant say forsure on the fuel mileage, i have only had the truck running maybe 5 mins since the sound as appeared, want to keep the damage to a minimum.

Click to expand...

I'd recommend bringing it to the dealer. Let me know if you need assistance establishing an appointment! - Kevin T, Social Connect Team

Looks like the valvetrain geometry might be a little off. HTF did that happen?

Thinking maybe a valve seat could have dropped, keeping the valve open.
Going to do a compression test and see what I find before pulling the head.

There are 2 things that can cause that, and it's easy to figure out which one it is.

Scenario 1: there is something keeping the valve partially open, usually this is the valve seat, as you have stated.

Scenario 2: you have a lifter that has completely collapsed, and it is not putting any pressure on the rocker, so it seems like the valve is not closed, when in reality he problem is in the lifter. The rocker is just a seesaw, if nothing is pressing on the other side it will flop around like it's doing in your video.

There's an easy way to determine which one it is. Get a small ruler, preferably one that measures in millimeters. Measure the spring height to the top of the spring retainer, and compare it to another cylinder that is at TDC.

If the spring height is lower than the others, you are correct about something, most likely the seat, holding the valve open and you are going to need some head work. If they are all the same height, you have a collapsed lifter, and you might get away with replacing lifters/deleting MDS/throw a cam in it.

BigSloth said:

There are 2 things that can cause that, and it's easy to figure out which one it is.

Scenario 1: there is something keeping the valve partially open, usually this is the valve seat, as you have stated.

Scenario 2: you have a lifter that has completely collapsed, and it is not putting any pressure on the rocker, so it seems like the valve is not closed, when in reality he problem is in the lifter. The rocker is just a seesaw, if nothing is pressing on the other side it will flop around like it's doing in your video.

There's an easy way to determine which one it is. Get a small ruler, preferably one that measures in millimeters. Measure the spring height to the top of the spring retainer, and compare it to another cylinder that is at TDC.

If the spring height is lower than the others, you are correct about something, most likely the seat, holding the valve open and you are going to need some head work. If they are all the same height, you have a collapsed lifter, and you might get away with replacing lifters/deleting MDS/throw a cam in it.

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I agree 100%
Once again, thanks for all of your guy's inputs.