Post you fixes for Hemi lifter tick

Burla said:

Any oils or oil additives that have helped your Hemi tick, post them up. Any other fixes for lifter tick?

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Pennzoil Platinum 5-20, no tick.

I ran 4K on factory fill and had them change it. Swapped out another 5k to mobile 1 full syn 5w20 and mobile 1 short filter. No tick 3k later. I picked up my next oil change and got penzoil platinum made from natural gas 5w20, and the new Bosch high end filter. The penzoil platinum is what mopar runs as there top oil for the hellcat etc. if it's good for 700hp it's good for 400hp. Personally I've always been a valvoline guy and this is my first mobile 1 attempt. From what I hear the tick is due to the properties of the synthetic oil as yellow bottle penzoil (Dumo oil) is better for the tick and has higher amounts of ZDDP. Also mixing 5w20 and 5w30 or straight 5w30 helps. Wouldn't go thicker than 5w30 with MDS.

To fix the issue you have to swap the MDS lifters for non MDS and then the motor will never tick and last a long time. Life of the MDS lifters is like 90ish K.

Aftermarket high end private oil I would stick to amsoil as top choice and redline as second.

Drained the factory fill at around 2300 mi on my '16 2500/6.4. It didn't have any tick; just a slight "whurring" like you'd imagine a new motor's few hundred parts fighting for their comfortable spot during breaking in. I changed to Amsoil 0w-40 SS at that first change. It has lost most audible mechanical sound and stayed silky smooth and quiet. It has almost 10k miles on it already (bought new in Apr '16) and I will change it next week and post the analysis results when they come in.

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Rampant said:

Drained the factory fill at around 2300 mi on my '16 2500/6.4. It didn't have any tick; just a slight "whurring" like you'd imagine a new motor's few hundred parts fighting for their comfortable spot during breaking in. I changed to Amsoil 0w-40 SS at that first change. It has lost most audible mechanical sound and stayed silky smooth and quiet. It has almost 10k miles on it already (bought new in Apr '16) and I will change it next week and post the analysis results when they come in.

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Nice , which oil analysis Lab are you using ?

Would you please also post the UOA ( Used Oil Analysis ) here :

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?ur...&share_tid=27664&share_fid=17770&share_type=t

Synthetic Oil

R.L.K. said:

Nice , which oil analysis Lab are you using ?

Would you please also post the UOA ( Used Oil Analysis ) here :

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?ur...&share_tid=27664&share_fid=17770&share_type=t

Synthetic Oil

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I use Horizon. They are an independent contractor that Amsoil uses. I just order the postage-paid kit from Amsoil and throw it in the mailbox that day and in a few days I get the results via e-mail and a link to their site. They store and track all if your samples for you. It's pretty nice. I did post most my last one, but I have no idea where. I will post the next one on that specific thread though.

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Thanks !

Lots of us posting up our UOA'S over on the synthetic thread .
I use Blackstone Labs , sounds just like Horizon .

My 14 Hemi doesn't make a sound. Been using QSUD Syn 0w20 since 1st oil change.

I'm posting this here in hopes it helps someone get rid of their Hemi tick. So guys here's the list of all the oil changes my truck has had. I really wasn't good about keeping track while I was experimenting so some are from memory and a lot of the mileage is approximate until recently. Keep in mind I do most of my oil changes by time, not mileage because I have a company vehicle and only drive my truck 5-6000 miles/year.

*FF (PYB 5w20) MO-899(larger pre-2013) filter installed at factory - Smooth and quiet at all temps

*PYB 5w20 at 750 miles (first wear metal flush), MO-339 filter from Amazon - Smooth and quiet at all temps

*PYB 5w20 at 1500 miles (second wear metal flush), MO-339 filter from Amazon - Smooth and quiet at all temps

Things went south after this. I knew I was going with a synthetic and I had been a long time M1 user. But Pennzoil had the MS-6395 spec and M1 didn't so I figured PP was the synthetic oil I should use. I was by far an oil greenhorn at this point.

*PP 5w20 at 2500 miles (non GTL), MO-339 filter from the dealer - Smooth and quiet at all temps for about 200 miles then developed the hot idle tick

*PP 5w20 at 3100 miles (GTL), got another MO-339 filter from Amazon figuring the previous filter might be defective - Cold start rattle/tick, loud hot idle tick
-3200 miles, Took to the dealer, was quickly told this was normal Hemi noise.
-7100 miles, cold start and hot idle tick worse, took it back to the dealer and was asked to provide receipts to prove oil was changed. I watched 2 different techs listen to it along with the service manager. They showed me another truck they were working on that was at operating temp and it made the same noise but FAR less obvious. I was again told it was normal Hemi noise. I figured at least it was documented twice now.

*Used a free dealer oil change coupon (PYB 5w20) 7300 miles, Mo-339 filter was installed - Immediate quieting of cold start tick and hot idle tick was significantly reduced.

*PYB 5w20 at 8000 miles (to prove PYB was the FF and what the dealer used), Left the same filter - Just as quiet as the dealer change.

Somewhere in here I found this thread and learned about moly, Redline, Amsoil, etc. Read the entire thread to what was then the last post and realized I didn't know much about oil.

*Not 100% sure about this one, but I changed it again around 9000 miles with Amsoil OE 5w20, RP 10-48 - Quiet on startup, hot idle tick was worse. Brought it to a local mechanic and he said a lot of Hemi's sound like this and didn't hear anything alarming. Had a recall to do at the dealer so I had them check it out a third time. Again, I was told this was normal and that they wouldn't look at it again for this unless it was "significantly worse". 3 times documented now.

*PYB 5w20 at 10000 miles, RP 10-48 filter - Quiet on cold start, hot idle tick better but still there. Ran a UOA on this.

*Redline 5w20 at 12500 miles, RP 10-48 filter - After 500+ miles Quiet on startup, hot idle tick significantly reduced but still there. I was amazed at how smooth the engine ran after putting RL in.

*I don't remember the exact mileage here but I tried Amsoil SS 5w20/30 mix, Wix XP 57060. It ran about the same as Redline 5w20.
-Switched to Amsoil SS 5w30 after about 150 miles (yes I'm crazy). Thought I had found my oil only to discover after about 400 miles I had my cold start tick back. Hot idle was still pretty quiet though.

*Redline 5w20 at approx 17000 miles, RP 10-48 - Nice and quiet on cold start but hot idle tick was a little louder than Amsoil SS 5w30. Ran a UOA on this at 1532 miles into the run

*Redline 0w30 at 22800miles, Wix XP 57060 - Quiet cold starts and quiet hot idle tick. It was the quietest my Hemi has run overall since before PP 5w20. I was extremely happy with this and then I got into the Pennzoil UOA program. Ran a UOA and copper was elevated.

*PUP 4qts 5w30 & 3qts 0w40 at 26981 miles, Wix XP 57060 - Quiet on cold starts and quiet on hot idle until the last 2-300 miles, UOA looked better than the previous UOA

*PUP 6qts 0w40 & 1qt 5w30 at 30289 miles, RP 20-820 - Quiet on cold starts, dumped after 400 miles due to hot idle tick

*Redline 5w30 at 30672 miles, Same filter as above, - Quietest my truck has run since new at all temps.

Pretty sure I got everything. I'm done experimenting with oil, just going to run Redline 5w30 and a RP filter going forward.

After seeing this compliled into a list, I can see why my wife was starting to think I had an oil obsession lol

Hope this shows what oil works and what doesn't for a ticking Hemi!

Thanks Corey, for the posting and the work.

Bottom line, you don't necessarily have to live with Hemi tick. There have been plenty of guys on the board who have figured it out. Redline seams to be very good at it, but maybe there are others as well. A guy over at Bob's said Lubeguards bio tech got his tick, and it makes sense as that is pretty much similar moly to what is in redline. I'm still thinking maybe we should be trying additives first before dumping oil, and then maybe go with oil, and a high flow synthetic filter.

My tick has been gone going on 5 years, redline 5w20 or 5w30.

I beat the living **** out of my truck at the track weekly,shift it in the 6200 rpm range and hit it with nitrous,the majority of miles on mine are freeway driving at 80mph plus,driving it to race weekly(closest track is 155miles away,aarrgghh,lol).Burla talked me into Redline years ago on my old 13,so this 14 has been on Redline 5w-30 since 2,000 miles,and has never had any tick,hot or at start-up,and i'm at 36000 miles now. I also run with a relocated filter that lets me use a more common 3/4-16 thread pitch Royal Purple filter (aka the old PH8A style filters).I'm trying PUP 5w-20 in the wifes new R/T Challenger,and it seems to be a decent oil to,but it's a little early to make a good judgement call on it,as the car just got it's first oil change a couple weeks ago. I'm still a fan of Redline,and if the car develops any issues with tick it'll be getting converted to redline to

Nice to hear Wild one , RL 5W-30 is my oil of choice as well .

I started using Redline 5W-20 in the wife's 16 Challenger ( 5.7L )
@ about 3k.


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I hear so many people complaining of that. But I have never heard that ticking in my truck.

If anyone is wondering what a bad case of Hemi tick sounds like, here it is: https://youtu.be/7yO9iRgkhUA

It starts off much less noisy , just a light ticking sound then gets worse ...

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Hemi395 said:

If anyone is wondering what a bad case of Hemi tick sounds like, here it is: https://youtu.be/7yO9iRgkhUA

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That is brutal!

Schaeffers 5/20
Added bottle Liquid Moly MOS2
Added bottle of ZDDP Max
No startup tick. Slight tick warmed up.
Runs and sounds smooth.

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Got a 2011 with 66000 mi. Starting to tick only when I start the truck, lasts for a minute or 2 then goes away. Could it be the oil (synthetic ), lifter, or exhaust leak? Any thoughts? Thanks

Hemi395 said:

*PYB 5w20 at 8000 miles (to prove PYB was the FF and what the dealer used), Left the same filter - Just as quiet as the dealer change.

Somewhere in here I found this thread and learned about moly, Redline, Amsoil, etc. Read the entire thread to what was then the last post and realized I didn't know much about oil.

*Not 100% sure about this one, but I changed it again around 9000 miles with Amsoil OE 5w20, RP 10-48 - Quiet on startup, hot idle tick was worse. Brought it to a local mechanic and he said a lot of Hemi's sound like this and didn't hear anything alarming. Had a recall to do at the dealer so I had them check it out a third time. Again, I was told this was normal and that they wouldn't look at it again for this unless it was "significantly worse". 3 times documented now.

*PYB 5w20 at 10000 miles, RP 10-48 filter - Quiet on cold start, hot idle tick better but still there. Ran a UOA this

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So you developed a hot idle tick using PYB 5W20?

Guys, the author of this information has some very good information written in language that is easy to understand. If interested, I will post a follow up on filters. Oil filters are rated by their Beta Ratio. This is a test where the filters are subjected to a fluid and the fluid is loaded with very specific amounts of known glass beads. The size of the glass beads are a known as well as how many. Sizes can vary to 1 micron. The fluid is then run thru the filter. What the filter captures is known as its single pass specs. A decent filter will capture around 90% single pass. Your K&N won't pass that test. After the results of the single pass test, then the fluid is pumped thru the filter over and over until there are no glass beads being filtered out. This is called multi-pass specs. That's how K&N designs and tests their filters. Here's the good news, I think the test critieria is pure BS. There is no set spec for the viscosity of the fluid, no set temperature, no set pressure or rate that the fluid is pumped. But there is a test. When looking at any oil filter, know you are looking at compromise of some kind. You can have great flow, like the K&N, or you can have great filtration, like a Purolator One, but you can't have both. If you have a filter media that filters great, it will sacrifice flow to get it. To get great flow, you'll sacrifice filtration. Synthetic media, blended media, or paper, doesn't matter. Most any quality oil filter will go 10,000 miles easily on a current production engine. With our gasolines we have today and the lean burn technologies, the engines just don't make the trash they did when you had a carbed engine. Of the better oil filters, Purolator and the NAPA Gold are about as good as it gets for filtration. Mobil One and K&N are among the best filters for increased flow.

About the oil. While you don't the issue, there are some here probably driving a direct injected engine. They are a problem child. For your truck and those that have the DI engines, you need to know what NOACK is. It is the amount of oil that evaporated under the ASTM D-5800 test. The oil is subjected to heat of 250C/ 482F for one hour. The number given to the test is the amount of oil that will cook off or evaporate in percentage of weight. So when you have the Mobil One 5w-30 at 10.2, that means that 10.2% of the oil by weight cooked off. The maximum allowable by API is 15%. Not much "premium" in the bottle in my opinion. You can do significantly better by switching to the cheaper Pennzoil Yellow Bottle in 10W-30, which has a NOACK of 4.2 and beats ALL synthetics by a lot. Note, this is 10w, not 5w. If your cold startup temps never get to -25C, you can use the 10w oils. If it gets colder, you'll need to stick with the 5W or even the 0W oils. So my recommendation is to use the Pennzoil YB in 10w-30 unless you have the minus 25C and colder startups. The 2.5 Nissan engine is used a lot in testing motor oils. A simple engine that wears great. The Platinum is a good choice. The 2.5 at 7500 miles should be no issue. The 4.0, I'd suggest 6000miles instead regardless of what oil you use. The issue is the 4.0 engine likes to shear oil. 7500 miles will be pushing it to the max. As an oil shears, it gets thin and it starts to degrade. I'd call 6000 miles tops.
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Further explanation about wear on parts and causes. Trying to cut and paste. There are 3 states of lubrication, 1.Hydrodynamic, where the oil film keeps the parts from ever touching each other, the best form of lubrication, 2. Mixed Film where the oil film is marginal between the parts, under extreme pressure, 3. Boundary, where the parts are squeezing the lube out and you are relying on the additives to keep the parts from grinding each other. In our engines, the shearing occurs when the oil is mechanically squeezed out of the parts, such as in a rod bearing when combustion occurs and tremendous forces push the rod against the crankshaft. Most commonly, you'll find rod bearings worn on the top sides of the bearings but not on the bottom sides. It's from these forces that the oil is squeezed out and is sheared mechanically. Shearing is just what it sounds like, the mechanical cutting of the oils molecules. As an oil shears, it will reduce the effective viscosity due to less flow resistance. In basics, you are mechanically breaking the oil down and it will lose some of its viscosity. This action also occurs at the ring packs although more common these days are engines with low mounted ring packs that use low tension rings. The lower ring mount means the rings are not exposed directly to the combustion chamber. The worst engines for oil shearing are those of small displacement that make big power, like a turbo engine, engines with the old style ring packs, carbed engines that weaken the oil with gas dilution, engines that run extreme internal temps, and engines that are required to do heavy work, especially industrial. Racing engines for an example, can put pressures on a connecting rod exceeding 5 Newtons, top fuel dragsters, in excess of 10 Newtons, your normal car, more around 1.1 Newtons at full throttle runs. It's these forces that tear the oil apart in shearing action.

There's more to it than that. We can chat about HT/HS ratings and how they are achieved vs shearing. We can chat about film strengths, just all kinds of things but much beyond this you're getting onto language most won't understand. I'm attempting to keep it simple and obviously it doesn't always translate to a 100% answer. But you should be able to get the idea from this. Did I get a passing grade, LOL!?