Post you fixes for Hemi lifter tick

AFMoulton said:

UOA's can determine what weight of oil you use without telling them?


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Kinda , if a dealer did a UOA on the oil ( NEVER HEARD THIS HAPPEN PERSONALLY ) they could look at the TBN to sorta determine how long the oil has been in the crankcase & look at the viscosity index @ 100°c to see where it falls weight wise .....
Never heard of this happening ..

With this said every oil change I've done is 30wt ++ oil .
I'm more interested in actually protecting my investment as opposed to running a water thin 20wt oil with low film strength. Just my opinion

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Visc at 100, they do in every uoa tells you the weight. Some guys worry, they should have the right info. As for me, I don't give a ****, I run 5w30 w/o a worry in the world. I would bet many dealers would spend the money to deny coverage, depends on the dealer. Some are just not nice people, as we have seen on the board over and over. My dealer denied me a fix under warranty, simply said he tried his best and couldn't fix the issue, if that was actually gonna fly with a vehicle owner, lol. I got a lawyer, I sued, I won. I suggest any dealer messes with you, do not ***** it is a waste of time, hire a lemon law lawyer, that is what they are for. They don't take a dime unless you get paid, then they get 25%. They wont take a case they don't think they can win. If that ends being the case, use a threatening letter instead of filling a case. Anyway, never take what the dealer says, warranty is a RIGHT. Do not let them take it off some ********.

One word, tons of inspiration? Past generations knew this word much more then the current generation, we need to get back to this. Someone pushes you down.....

Well good thing my manual says 5W-30 is good to use for severe use! I Tow a Travel Trailer quite a bit now. They can stick that in their pipe and smoke it!

I wish I had done a UOA on my factory fill to see what it was at 100*.

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This was my two year OCI with 5w20, look at cSt that tells you it is a 20 weight, if it was 3 points higher in the 11's or 12's, it is a thirty weight. Also, this was a ticking hemi and wear shows it, the numbers have been coming down both because of the youth of the engine and because the hemi tick is cured, but redline while kills hemi tick, also leaches metals so not the best oil when considering wear numbers alone. Of course, leaving hemi tick when you don't have too, is just stupid. The cost if you get out of warranty is astronomical. Almost makes your truck worthless unless you have the know how to swap a cam and lifters, no small task for beginners. I know I don't have that know how myself, so I run 5w30 redline.

Thanks Burla and RLK, as usual I'm learning something new!


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No worries brother, this is how we do.

R.L.K. said:

Why was your engine replaced Sir ?

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Long overdue reply and maybe some useful info for someone who hasn't come across this thread:

The Tick

Hey guys I have been reading the posts and trying to make a decision on what to go with on the next oil change. The truck is a 2017 with about 7500 miles. So far it has one change that I did at around 3000 miles. Filled with 7 qts of PP 5W/20 and mopar filter. To be honest it has been awhile since I have heard a "normal" engine since my last truck was a 3 vavle triton with cam phaser issues. With this Hemi I hear mostly injector noise and maybe an occasional tick. So far it has also had a start up rattle/tick twice after being started after its already warm. I am wondering if this is reason enough to go to a different weight/brand and the fact the truck is in the Vegas heat moving to a 5W/30 would be a smarter choice anyway.

DsrtRat08 said:

Hey guys I have been reading the posts and trying to make a decision on what to go with on the next oil change. The truck is a 2017 with about 7500 miles. So far it has one change that I did at around 3000 miles. Filled with 7 qts of PP 5W/20 and mopar filter. To be honest it has been awhile since I have heard a "normal" engine since my last truck was a 3 vavle triton with cam phaser issues. With this Hemi I hear mostly injector noise and maybe an occasional tick. So far it has also had a start up rattle/tick twice after being started after its already warm. I am wondering if this is reason enough to go to a different weight/brand and the fact the truck is in the Vegas heat moving to a 5W/30 would be a smarter choice anyway.

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Absolutely. Go ahead and make the switch to Redline 5W30 with the preferred RP oil filter. Your situation pretty much mirrored mine to a Tee. I would get a startup tick that would last for like 3 secs only occasionally but if I shut her down and then restarted her again within a short period of time I would get a quick tick/rattle after that also. Now granted its highly recommended by the experts to be patient and give it perhaps up to a 1000 miles to fully take effect but I noticed a tremendous difference right away and my engine is whisper quiet valvetrain wise and its only been 300 miles for me. I would say at the very least move up to the PUP(Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W30) 5W30 but I highly recommend the Redline over that. If you plan on keeping the truck for an extended period of time I think it would be a good investment personally.

DsrtRat08 said:

Hey guys I have been reading the posts and trying to make a decision on what to go with on the next oil change. The truck is a 2017 with about 7500 miles. So far it has one change that I did at around 3000 miles. Filled with 7 qts of PP 5W/20 and mopar filter. To be honest it has been awhile since I have heard a "normal" engine since my last truck was a 3 vavle triton with cam phaser issues. With this Hemi I hear mostly injector noise and maybe an occasional tick. So far it has also had a start up rattle/tick twice after being started after its already warm. I am wondering if this is reason enough to go to a different weight/brand and the fact the truck is in the Vegas heat moving to a 5W/30 would be a smarter choice anyway.

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I'd definitely move up to a 5W-30 oil [emoji106]
Redline 5W-30 would be my suggestion with the RP10-48 Filter .

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tidefan1967 said:

Absolutely. Go ahead and make the switch to Redline 5W30 with the preferred RP oil filter. Your situation pretty much mirrored mine to a Tee. I would get a startup tick that would last for like 3 secs only occasionally but if I shut her down and then restarted her again within a short period of time I would get a quick tick/rattle after that also. Now granted its highly recommended by the experts to be patient and give it perhaps up to a 1000 miles to fully take effect but I noticed a tremendous difference right away and my engine is whisper quiet valvetrain wise and its only been 300 miles for me. I would say at the very least move up to the PUP(Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W30) 5W30 but I highly recommend the Redline over that. If you plan on keeping the truck for an extended period of time I think it would be a good investment personally.

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Did this yesterday, also immediately noticed a quieter engine. Going to drive as much as possible this weekend, because i don't drive it much during the week.

tidefan1967 said:

Absolutely. Go ahead and make the switch to Redline 5W30 with the preferred RP oil filter. Your situation pretty much mirrored mine to a Tee. I would get a startup tick that would last for like 3 secs only occasionally but if I shut her down and then restarted her again within a short period of time I would get a quick tick/rattle after that also. Now granted its highly recommended by the experts to be patient and give it perhaps up to a 1000 miles to fully take effect but I noticed a tremendous difference right away and my engine is whisper quiet valvetrain wise and its only been 300 miles for me. I would say at the very least move up to the PUP(Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W30) 5W30 but I highly recommend the Redline over that. If you plan on keeping the truck for an extended period of time I think it would be a good investment personally.

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I definitely plan on keeping it until the wheels fall off. I was thinking of saving some money and going to the PUP 5W30 like you said and at least getting the heavier weight but from what everyone is saying looks like biting the bullet and paying for the Redline is just a good overall choice. Makes me miss my old durango with the 360 and old ford 302, seemed to run smooth and quiet no matter what I threw at them.

Have a 2011 ram 1500 I bought at 88,000k miles used a year ago. I thought the hermi tick was normal for dodge. At least what I’ve always heard. I’ve been reading online about a lot of cam failures for the 2011 rams 5.7L and I’m starting to get nervous I made a bad choice in auto purchases. I thought you could get 300k miles out of these trucks....maybe I’m wrong with the 2011 year. So reading all of this is magic cure is encouraging. My only concern in moving to rl 5w30 is my manual for the 2011 ram says Only use 20w. Over and over again. I’m worried that 30w although quieting the engine may also damage it somehow as when you research will using a heavier weight in an engine damage it the answers I find are consistently yes. Has anyone on here ran 30w and gotten high miles with no cam failures? Is anyone running 30w in the 2011 model? It’s hard to change to non certified heavier weight oils without evidence it helps long term. But then again if the tick goes away you would think it’s because it is better lubricated.

500rider86 said:

Have a 2011 ram 1500 I bought at 88,000k miles used a year ago. I thought the hermi tick was normal for dodge. At least what I’ve always heard. I’ve been reading online about a lot of cam failures for the 2011 rams 5.7L and I’m starting to get nervous I made a bad choice in auto purchases. I thought you could get 300k miles out of these trucks....maybe I’m wrong with the 2011 year. So reading all of this is magic cure is encouraging. My only concern in moving to rl 10w30 is my manual for the 2011 ram says Only use 20w. Over and over again. I’m worried that 30w although quieting the engine may also damage it somehow as when you research will using a heavier weight in an engine damage it the answers I find are consistently yes. Has anyone on here ran 30w and gotten high miles with no cam failures? Is anyone running 30w in the 2011 model?

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My father has been running 0W40 and 5W30 in his '12 5.7 for tens of thousands of miles. I think its up to like 112k on the clock now and aside from manifold bolts it's nice and quiet on the 0W40 specifically Edge 0W40 A3/B4. The 6.4 with the same MDS system specs 0W40 while non MDS 5.7's in the HD's clearly state to use 5W30 under heavy operating conditions. Not running 20W won't hurt anything and I believe there's some members with substantial miles running heavier RL without any issues. It's not a little import 4 banger where I would stick to the 20W and if you look at the internals they haven't changed all that much in a good while. 20W being used in domestic V8's is driven more so by chasing fleet wide economy numbers where every little bit helps rather than longevity of the engine.

DsrtRat08 said:

I definitely plan on keeping it until the wheels fall off. I was thinking of saving some money and going to the PUP 5W30 like you said and at least getting the heavier weight but from what everyone is saying looks like biting the bullet and paying for the Redline is just a good overall choice. Makes me miss my old durango with the 360 and old ford 302, seemed to run smooth and quiet no matter what I threw at them.

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fkin amen, I miss all 3 of my 5.8's, Windsor's were bullet proof on house oil. However, they were not spec'd with 20 weight. It may just be that is was is screwing all of us, don't really know for sure, but it is possible.

joshuaeb09 said:

My father has been running 0W40 and 5W30 in his '12 5.7 for tens of thousands of miles. I think its up to like 112k on the clock now and aside from manifold bolts it's nice and quiet on the 0W40 specifically Edge 0W40 A3/B4. The 6.4 with the same MDS system specs 0W40 while non MDS 5.7's in the HD's clearly state to use 5W30 under heavy operating conditions. Not running 20W won't hurt anything and I believe there's some members with substantial miles running heavier RL without any issues. It's not a little import 4 banger where I would stick to the 20W and if you look at the internals they haven't changed all that much in a good while. 20W being used in domestic V8's is driven more so by chasing fleet wide economy numbers where every little bit helps rather than longevity of the engine.

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My wife's toyo 4 banger does much much better on 5w30 PUP. It even does better on 5w30 PUP then it did on 5w20 Redline. It was a rattle trap on 5w20 m1 (Burla loves m1 anyway), smoothed out on 5w20 redline, but was way smoother on 5w30 PUP, and now that is her oil for life or as long as I can get it. I assume 5w30 m1 would be the same, and I do not want to use 5w30 redline because that is almost like a 40 weight and not really necessary IMO.

IMO 20wt oil has no place in a 395HP V8 that is rated to tow 10000lbs. There just isn't enough to film strength in most 20wt oils to protect against metal on metal contact. A 160HP 4 banger sure, but not a high horsepower V8.

Not to mention oils of today are nothing like they were in the 90's, low anti wear additives also make the newer engines less smooth then those old boys. Toss in vvt and mds, just a lot of stuff going on with these new trucks that we never had to even think about.

Hemi395 said:

IMO 20wt oil has no place in a 395HP V8 that is rated to tow 10000lbs. There just isn't enough to film strength in most 20wt oils to protect against metal on metal contact. A 160HP 4 banger sure, but not a high horsepower V8.

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Disgusting that this didn't cross anyone's mind when they went all in with the "fuel" economy agenda, or did it? JAPAN.

And, the fix is to go to a DI turbo is almost all applications, and that does get you better gas mileage, however it they choose PI turbo they would get probably identical mileage at the wheels on a street as a DI turbo but would have no LSPI and better gas mileage then the 8 cylinders, great for fuel economy and will give a great long lasting engine, but yet they opt for the option that will destroy many more engines. why? JAPAN

I would totally be on board with a PI turbo 6 cylinder hemi, that would make sense and make everyone happy, and that is why it would never happen. Take vvt and mds out, you would have way better actual gas mileage then the current hemi 5.7 and no lspi. Sadly we will never see one, because all of the manufacturers are the same.

You know, how many people would rather see a solid axle on a 1500? It would cost the manu's zero dollars to do so, and man you would have so much more capability with a 4x4. And yet, not one manu's does this, except maybe the new jeep truck. Why? If any manu simply went to a SA in a 1500 it would be wildly successful imo, could easily charge an extra grand for the privilege even as an option, would be great for guys wanting big tires, and yet not a single damn one of them offer it even as an option. Truck guys have no say in how these trucks are being built. If I ever do a gear swap, it will include a SAS.

Burla said:

My wife's toyo 4 banger does much much better on 5w30 PUP. It even does better on 5w30 PUP then it did on 5w20 Redline. It was a rattle trap on 5w20 m1 (Burla loves m1 anyway), smoothed out on 5w20 redline, but was way smoother on 5w30 PUP, and now that is her oil for life or as long as I can get it. I assume 5w30 m1 would be the same, and I do not want to use 5w30 redline because that is almost like a 40 weight and not really necessary IMO.

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The toyota a had several years ago actually did better running 0W20 than 5W30 so it just goes to show not all motors respond the same. I also agree putting RL 5W30 in a little 4 cylinder probably wouldn't be the best idea unless it had alot of boost running through it.