Spark Plugs every 32K?

The Unabomber · Mar 30, 2014

loveracing1988 said:
Mainly carbon fouling issues and only in colder climates.
I've worked at the dealer and see it every winter, as soon as it gets cold they start coming in on the hook for no starts, for some reason in cold temps they don't want to fire and the vehicle won't start.

I wasn't aware that the material the conductor was made of caused carbon fouling. I'm still scratching my head on that one. See below.

Causes of Carbon Fouling:

Continuous low speed driving and/or short trips
Spark plug heat range too cold
Air-fuel mixture too rich
Reduced compression and oil usage due to worn piston rings / cylinder walls
Over-******** ignition timing
Ignition system deterioration
Pre-delivery fouling

Carbon fouling occurs when the spark plug firing end does not reach the self-cleaning temperature of approximately 450°C (842°F). Carbon deposits will begin to burn off from the insulator nose when the self-cleaning temperature is reached. When the heat range is too cold for the engine speed, the firing end temperature will stay below 450°C and carbon deposits will accumulate on the insulator nose. This is called carbon fouling. When enough carbon accumulates, the spark will travel the path of least resistance over the insulator nose to the metal shell instead of jumping across the gap. This usually results in a misfire and further fouling.

If the selected spark plug heat range is too cold, the spark plug may begin to foul when the engine speed is low or when operating in cold conditions with rich air-fuel mixtures. In some cases, the insulator nose can usually be cleaned by operating the engine at higher speeds in order to reach the self-cleaning temperature. If the spark plug has completely fouled, and the engine will not operate correctly, the spark plug may need to be cleaned / replaced and the fouling cause identified.

loveracing1988 · Mar 30, 2014

The Unabomber said:
I wasn't aware that the material the conductor was made of caused carbon fouling. I'm still scratching my head on that one. See below.

Causes of Carbon Fouling:

Continuous low speed driving and/or short trips
Spark plug heat range too cold
Air-fuel mixture too rich
Reduced compression and oil usage due to worn piston rings / cylinder walls
Over-******** ignition timing
Ignition system deterioration
Pre-delivery fouling

Carbon fouling occurs when the spark plug firing end does not reach the self-cleaning temperature of approximately 450°C (842°F). Carbon deposits will begin to burn off from the insulator nose when the self-cleaning temperature is reached. When the heat range is too cold for the engine speed, the firing end temperature will stay below 450°C and carbon deposits will accumulate on the insulator nose. This is called carbon fouling. When enough carbon accumulates, the spark will travel the path of least resistance over the insulator nose to the metal shell instead of jumping across the gap. This usually results in a misfire and further fouling.

If the selected spark plug heat range is too cold, the spark plug may begin to foul when the engine speed is low or when operating in cold conditions with rich air-fuel mixtures. In some cases, the insulator nose can usually be cleaned by operating the engine at higher speeds in order to reach the self-cleaning temperature. If the spark plug has completely fouled, and the engine will not operate correctly, the spark plug may need to be cleaned / replaced and the fouling cause identified.

I'm not arguing, im just saying what goes on in the dealership.

The Unabomber · Mar 30, 2014

loveracing1988 said:
I'm not arguing, im just saying what goes on in the dealership.

No offense to you or anyone at your dealership but there is just a lot of misinformation out there.

ramstein · Apr 9, 2014

Just did my plugs today, they looked fine but I had to turn into an acrobat to to the drivers side. I wish I was a a small guy just for oneeeeeee day haha

The Unabomber · Apr 10, 2014

ramstein said:
Just did my plugs today, they looked fine but I had to turn into an acrobat to to the drivers side. I wish I was a a small guy just for oneeeeeee day haha

With the right tools working around the booster is cake. On the 6.4 trucks they are more user friendly.

Bindairdundat · Aug 2, 2014

I have a 2012 Hemi and the owner's manual recommends 32K. Replaced the plugs this morning with OEM NGK LZFR5C-11 at $4.49 ea from O'Reilly Auto Parts.

Posts by members are excellent and very helpful. The store rep offered anti-seize but thanks to member posts read the NGK tech bulletin that said not to use anti-seize on the threads.

BoldAdventure · Aug 2, 2014

Bindairdundat said:
I have a 2012 Hemi and the owner's manual recommends 32K. Replaced the plugs this morning with OEM NGK LZFR5C-11 at $4.49 ea from O'Reilly Auto Parts.

Posts by members are excellent and very helpful. The store rep offered anti-seize but thanks to member posts read the NGK tech bulletin that said not to use anti-seize on the threads.

Are you ******** me? WTF is this tech bulletin. I just freaking did one whole side with those plugs and anti-seize!!

Casper · Aug 2, 2014

rihemiexpress said:
Today while checking my owner's manual it states to replace the Hemi 5.7 spark plugs every 32K miles on my 2012. Has anybody gone longer without replacing the plugs & by how much? What type of plugs do these Motors use? Is there a longer lasting plug for this year Hemi?
Thanks

Almost every time I hear about someone who bought a used Hemi is having idle or misfire problems its because the previous owner and stealership didn't change the plugs.

OEM plugs are good. You need 16 of them, 2 per cylinder. Or you can order through a couple of the RF preferred vendors (tabs to the right). Personally I recommend Moe's.

Redtruck-VA · Aug 2, 2014

BoldAdventure said:
Are you ******** me? WTF is this tech bulletin. I just freaking did one whole side with those plugs and anti-seize!!

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/tb-0630111antisieze.pdf

BoldAdventure · Aug 2, 2014

Oh well. I'm not pulling 8 plugs back out to wipe them off, especially the last one on the left bank. lol. i'll just leave it off the right bank plugs.

Redtruck-VA · Aug 2, 2014

If it makes you feel better I use anti-seize and will continue to use anti-seize on my plugs. But I pull them down by feel and am careful not to over tighten them. I pull my plugs frequently and have no problem doing so.

JasonK94Z · Aug 2, 2014

The Unabomber said:
No offense to you or anyone at your dealership but there is just a lot of misinformation out there.

LOL. I agree with you. Copper, platinum, iridium, kryptonite ... if it produces a spark to cause ignition, it will work. Spark plugs do not make more horsepower either.

Q: How much of a performance improvement can I expect from changing plugs?

A: A common misconception is that changing spark plugs will result in a large power increase. In most cases, removing even seriously worn out spark plugs will only result in very modest power gains, typically about 1-2% of total engine output. This could be even less for computer-controlled vehicles, primarily because most newer vehicles have more powerful ignition systems and the vehicle's computer can make adjustments so that vehicle operation seems smoother and more seamless.

Many people think that simply supplying more spark to the firing tip can and will combust more fuel. What they don't understand is that most newer cars' engines are so efficient that they are already burning all of the available fuel. Simply adding more spark voltage can't burn more fuel because there is no more fuel to burn.

When a stock or near-stock engine is given a fresh set of spark plugs, peak efficiency is restored. The power gains that come from this restored state of tune are usually minimal. Any company that tells you that their spark plug will provide significant gains in power in a stock or near-stock engine is making blanket statements that may not be supportable.

JasonK94Z · Aug 2, 2014

Bindairdundat said:
I have a 2012 Hemi and the owner's manual recommends 32K. Replaced the plugs this morning with OEM NGK LZFR5C-11 at $4.49 ea from O'Reilly Auto Parts.

Posts by members are excellent and very helpful. The store rep offered anti-seize but thanks to member posts read the NGK tech bulletin that said not to use anti-seize on the threads.

I'll ignore that tech bulletin. Dissimilar metals and all that. I'd like to be able to pull my plugs out in the future and keep the threads in my aluminum heads.

Ramrt1 · Apr 9, 2016

I just completed mine, took me about 2 hours. Had to lay on the engine to complete the last 2 on the drivers side. My truck has over 63.000 miles on the old plugs, they didn't look bad but needed to be changed. I have always run premium fuel due to my custom tunes. I also run seafoam once a month during fill up. I reset the computer just in case there was a difference in spark from the new plugs. Haven't had any problems, truck runs great.

chris52010trx4 · Apr 9, 2016

just did mine today in northern canada.. man it was cold out... i last did mine at about 110 000 km.. and now at 175400 ... so its been abit.. every plug came out easy.. didnt use any anti seize previously either.. ngks website says its not needed and all the gaps were still pretty close... chest is killing from laying over the rad for those back 4 on driverside...

rippin209 · Apr 9, 2016

I changed the Trani fluid and filter and spark plugs, rotor, wires and cap, on the 96 1500 Laramie i got a week ago. Has 112k miles on it don't know when it was done last but spark plugs did all come out easily, Trani fluid was a pain in the ass just because of the mess

Ramrt1 · Apr 24, 2016

Every 30k is not going to happen, sorry.

audio1der · Apr 24, 2016

Ramrt1 said:
Every 30k is not going to happen, sorry.

You like rolling the dice with expensive investments? They're a PITA but cheap.

BlownGP · Apr 25, 2016

chris52010trx4 said:
chest is killing from laying over the rad for those back 4 on driverside...

I know right. I even laid blankets down and my chest was till hurt..

jled · Dec 2, 2016

magnetic socket

magnetic socket is a must

I feel like I've been in a bar fight after twisting around all over the engine bay to get this done today. Thanks for all the tips from this forum - as always this group is right on track

Spark Plugs every 32K?

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