Synthetic Oil

dexter said:

I got that part but I asked them if it was the same as:
68089195AA or Mopar BW44-44 which is for the transfer case.

Click to expand...

You have a 6.4 2500 correct?

What we are saying is you can use any atf+4 or equivalent in your transfer case.

Something similar to this one, I have a cheaper model that's all plastic but it works great.

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

Disappointed to report my 6.4 was ticking/tapping pretty good on the fresh PUP today.

tjfdesmo said:

Disappointed to report my 6.4 was ticking/tapping pretty good on the fresh PUP today.

Click to expand...

Seems to be a trend. Some guys do have luck with it but we have been hearing this here and there for a while now. If your truck is like mine it will do the same on Amsoil 0W40 but it will take a few thousand miles.

Dont let anyone “Tell” you what to do (me included) but redline might be your end solution. It was for me.

For brake bleeding I purchased a Motive Power Bleeder. Recently I discovered that PowerProbe makes their own bleeder, but also a set of spectacular application-specific adapters for master cylinders. Quick connect compressed-air type connectors, aluminum caps, etc. Turns out the one for my G37 also fits my RAM, so I purchased it to use with my power bleeder.

Also been reading up on how a lot of people prefer to use the Power Bleeder "dry" (no fluid, just use it to pressurize the system), disconnecting it after each wheel to add fluid into the master cylinder and re-pressurize. Seems to be a cleaner way of doing things.

I used to use the MityVac hand vac pump and their small fluid catch bottle but was always worried I would end up pulling out too much and dragging air into the system.

I asked Redline if they had cross reference for 68089195aa


Response from Redline:


Thank you for contacting Red Line Oil, sorry we don’t offer a cross for that fluid used in the BW 44-44 transfer case.


Regards,


Dave Granquist

dexter said:

I asked Redline if they had cross reference for 68089195aa


Response from Redline:


Thank you for contacting Red Line Oil, sorry we don’t offer a cross for that fluid used in the BW 44-44 transfer case.


Regards,


Dave Granquist

Click to expand...

I expected that would be the response from Redline .
I think someone posted that in another thread that had lots of talk on the 65RFE xsmn with both the 44-45 & the 44-44 xsfer case ....I was hoping you would get a different answer , meaning the had a fluid for the BW44-44 ...
No worries as I have the -45 xsfer case [emoji1303][emoji1303]

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

U&A said:

Seems to be a trend. Some guys do have luck with it but we have been hearing this here and there for a while now. If your truck is like mine it will do the same on Amsoil 0W40 but it will take a few thousand miles.

Dont let anyone “Tell” you what to do (me included) but redline might be your end solution. It was for me.

Click to expand...

Oh, I get it. I am one of the ones whose 6.4 ticked like mad on Amsoil SS. Not bashing, heck I still run it in my wife's Acura. I will be trying Redline next OCI. In the mean time, if this keeps up I might resort to MOS2 again. Even though I am generally a no additives guy, it did help me milk the Amsoil along to this OCI. I've said it before, and I'll say it again, I have never owned an engine as fussy as this Hemi, and I have owned a metric ****-ton of stuff.

Try Lubegard Biotech. It's an organic soluble moly, not a moly powder like MOS2

tjfdesmo said:

Oh, I get it. I am one of the ones whose 6.4 ticked like mad on Amsoil SS. Not bashing, heck I still run it in my wife's Acura. I will be trying Redline next OCI. In the mean time, if this keeps up I might resort to MOS2 again. Even though I am generally a no additives guy, it did help me milk the Amsoil along to this OCI. I've said it before, and I'll say it again, I have never owned an engine as fussy as this Hemi, and I have owned a metric ****-ton of stuff.

Click to expand...

Again, you tried it and it didn’t work, time to switch. It works great for my 6.4, right now. So we will see. Post up your results if you get a UOA done, or if you add something and it helps.


2018 2500 6.4 4x4 4.10 Amsoil SS 0w-40
2016 Durango 5.7 AWD 3.07 Amsoil SS 5W-30

U&A, when you switched to redline didn't you mix 0/40 &5/40 or something like that? Wander what would happen if TJ would drain part of the 0/40 PUP and add 5/30 PUP? Or if you had done the same to you're Amsoil. Just a question because believe me I've done my share of short OCI's waisting a lot of oil in my quest.

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

tjfdesmo said:

Disappointed to report my 6.4 was ticking/tapping pretty good on the fresh PUP today.

Click to expand...

Just curious... What would it take for you to throw in the towel and unload it? Not saying that is what you should do at all, but I would keep it just long enough to get it quieted down and then let it be someone else's problem. If I have to run a special oil or additive to keep a relatively new engine quiet, it doesn't speak well for a healthy longevity and I don't want anything to do with it.

Rampant said:

Just curious... What would it take for you to throw in the towel and unload it? Not saying that is what you should do at all, but I would keep it just long enough to get it quieted down and then let it be someone else's problem. If I have to run a special oil or additive to keep a relatively new engine quiet, it doesn't speak well for a healthy longevity and I don't want anything to do with it.

Click to expand...

I've been down that road too many times to list them out with vehicles from Ford(several), Chevy(including a successful Lemon Law), Volvo, and Toyota. Is this annoying? Yup. Does it rise to dump it level? Nah. Too many folks have accumulated a whole lot of miles without catastrophic failure to be a big worry. Actually, the only cam failure I ever had was in a well maintained 454 Chevy in a rollback, so, while others may feel Chevys are bulletproof, my experience with all three I have owned ras ranged from poor to "holy ****!". I am sorta hoping for a better transmission to come along, and that might goad me into trading up.

Crazy thing is I know a few people who have had bad vehicles in the past , I've seen so damn many from different forums ...
I've owned 15 -16 vehicles in my lifetime ( knock on wood ) I've never had a single major failure ..besides little stuff like u-joints , axles and suspension componets from my abusing the **** out of lifted 4wds when I was younger and dumber [emoji16]

With that said I've had many issues that came along which I repaired prior to complete failure .
Maybe I've just been really lucky ?

I should also say I over maintain the hell out of my personal vehicles with top of the line products and lubricants.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

R.L.K. said:

Crazy thing is I know a few people who have had bad vehicles in the past , I've seen so damn many from different forums ...
I've owned 15 -16 vehicles in my lifetime ( knock on wood ) I've never had a single major failure ..besides little stuff like u-joints , axles and suspension componets from my abusing the **** out of lifted 4wds when I was younger and dumber [emoji16]

With that said I've had many issues that came along which I repaired prior to complete failure .
Maybe I've just been really lucky ?

I should also say I over maintain the hell out of my personal vehicles with top of the line products and lubricants.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Click to expand...

I can guarantee maintenance was not an issue. These were all design/QC issues.

I think it's a bit of a stretch to think the hemi tick means longevity issues. As I have posted a few times, the hemi tick has been around since 2003 and ticked past 200000 miles.

Ramnewbie said:

U&A, when you switched to redline didn't you mix 0/40 &5/40 or something like that? Wander what would happen if TJ would drain part of the 0/40 PUP and add 5/30 PUP? Or if you had done the same to you're Amsoil. Just a question because believe me I've done my share of short OCI's waisting a lot of oil in my quest.

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

Click to expand...

Straight 0w40 PUP was noisy ( not overly so but enough to make me search) straight 0w40 Amsoil was a little quieter until about 2000 mile in it started cold start ticing for a solid 3-5 seconds EVERY startup.

Wanted to go to straight Redline 5W40 but the calcuim, zinc, phosphorus and moly were significantly lower than other redline formulations (still higher than most all others oils though). Since it was about to be winter and i have a grudge against the boat load of VII’s that are in 0W40 oils i decided to do a more winter friendly mix of 4quarts 10w40 & 3 quarts 0W40 to get a 7W40 that had EXCELLENT calcium, zinc, phosphorus and moly. Redline 0W40 and 10W40 have a killer additive pack so I thought i could try and get the best of both worlds.

Not a single startup tic after 50 miles into redline and non since.

Now im running my summer oil straight Redline 10W40. I dont notice a significant noise difference but it is slightly quieter. I can hear the noise injectors more now.... LOL.

My current mental battle is deciding my next winter oil change as i want to get away from mixing if i can. Considering straight redline 5w30 or my personal demon.... straight redline 0W40.

I just strongly hate VII's so im leaning twards 5w30.


What is the cst vis @100 of PUP 0w40? If it is close to redline 5w30 than im just a little hesitant.

tjfdesmo said:

I've been down that road too many times to list them out with vehicles from Ford(several), Chevy(including a successful Lemon Law), Volvo, and Toyota. Is this annoying? Yup. Does it rise to dump it level? Nah. Too many folks have accumulated a whole lot of miles without catastrophic failure to be a big worry. Actually, the only cam failure I ever had was in a well maintained 454 Chevy in a rollback, so, while others may feel Chevys are bulletproof, my experience with all three I have owned ras ranged from poor to "holy ****!". I am sorta hoping for a better transmission to come along, and that might goad me into trading up.

Click to expand...

Fair enough. Looking back at the 30+ vehicles I've owned, I guess I tend to keep vehicles I buy 'pre-owned' longer than those I buy new. Maybe I expect too much from new vehicles. I don't mind working on vehicles with say ~75k+ miles on them at all because I feel like they've earned it in some weird way. Or something like that. If a relatively new vehicle shows signs of what I consider impending premature failure, I lose confidence in it and it ****** me off. I feel like it's a sign of what's to come. That's why I'd get rid of them. I did just that with one Dodge and two Ferds in the 90's. They hadn't earned their keep yet and had issues.

Same with accidents. I've known people who've gotten in fairly serious accidents in their less-than-a-month-old vehicles and had them fixed. I couldn't keep that car. Especially not a $50k+ truck. No thanks, there are good ones out there somewhere and I'll keep going through them until I find one.

This Ram has been a great truck so far. Two years/36k and hasn't seen a dealer yet. Two recalls are due, but I can't bring myself to take it in because I 'just know' the dealer is going to screw something up. I have zero trust in any dealer. Maybe I'd get one of their best techs, maybe I'd get the apprentice who has never done that repair before and his ol' lady left him the night before. With my luck, it would almost certainly be the latter.

I guess I look at it like if the vehicle can make it through the factory warranty without an issue, I don't have a problem keeping and fixing it myself. I honestly wish I could just pay less up front and not have a warranty at all. Or maybe 'a la carte' warranty options, similar to how you 'buy' insurance. Or cable. Or internet. Or cell phone service. Or... a million other things. Not a mainstream way to think about it by any means, I know. It would be interesting to see what numbers they put on those warranty options vs vehicle price for sure.

In fact,

PUP0W40 was “reasonable” enough that i will possibly try it again after a good 30,000 miles. Unless I chicken out.... probably will. A good man once said “ if it aint broke dont fix it”

U&A said:

Straight 0w40 PUP was noisy ( not overly so but enough to make me search) straight 0w40 Amsoil was a little quieter until about 2000 mile in it started cold start ticing for a solid 3-5 seconds EVERY startup.

Wanted to go to straight Redline 5W40 but the calcuim, zinc, phosphorus and moly were significantly lower than other redline formulations (still higher than most all others oils though). Since it was about to be winter and i have a grudge against the boat load of VII’s that are in 0W40 oils i decided to do a more winter friendly mix of 4quarts 10w40 & 3 quarts 0W40 to get a 7W40 that had EXCELLENT calcium, zinc, phosphorus and moly. Redline 0W40 and 10W40 have a killer additive pack so I thought i could try and get the best of both worlds.

Not a single startup tic after 50 miles into redline and non since.

Now im running my summer oil straight Redline 10W40. I dont notice a significant noise difference but it is slightly quieter. I can hear the noise injectors more now.... LOL.

My current mental battle is deciding my next winter oil change as i want to get away from mixing if i can. Considering straight redline 5w30 or my personal demon.... straight redline 0W40.

I just strongly hate VII's so im leaning twards 5w30.


What is the cst vis @100 of PUP 0w40? If it is close to redline 5w30 than im just a little hesitant.

Click to expand...

I'm just going by what I've read and absorbed here but supposedly PUP 0/40 is a thin 40wt that shears to 30 pretty soon and redline tends to be thick on their weight range so without looking at the numbers I'd guess the 5/30 redline would be close to 0/40 PUP.

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk