Synthetic Oil

Fitz-0518 · Jul 7, 2018

Thought the 6.4 would run/start better on the PUP 0-40. After 300 miles, first start rap each day is worse. Thinking about draining out 2-3 qrts of PUP 0-40 and replacing with PUP 5-30. My suspicion is, the 5-30 could help keep more oil clinging to the valve train, over night????

Burla · Jul 7, 2018

No, 0w40 PUP has been the best PUP as far as protection, and has the highest moly for dry starts. Can you post a video?

Fitz-0518 · Jul 7, 2018

Burla said:
No, 0w40 PUP has been the best PUP as far as protection, and has the highest moly for dry starts. Can you post a video?

Was hoping to get your thought. So PUP 5-30 has less moly than 0-40, which now tells me that mixing the two viscosity's will not help. Rap only last for 1-2 seconds and only after 2 day shut down. Thanks.

dexter · Jul 7, 2018

chrisbh17 said:
OK, Im at a crossroads

Truck has just over 5K miles on it. Factory fill was changed out by dealer at about 2500 miles, they used PYB. At about 4500 miles I changed it out for PUP 5-30 and the larger RP filter.

At idle the engine sounds great...quiet, a little ticking down low but Im thinking its accessories and not valvetrain or internal. Hood up all you really hear are the injectors.

While driving, I still think I can hear louder ticking than normal. Ive added some MOS2 and run it for 250 miles and Im still hearing said ticking, especially under 2K RPM and slight load.

The options I see are (keeping in mind that I have MaxCare Lifetime):

1. Run it until 7K miles and have the dealer change the oil (7K because thats when they expect to see it again). I have 4 free synth blend oil changes, I would use one of those.

2. Change it out for RedLine 5-30.

3. Change it out for PYB 5-30

4. Live with it, who cares!

Im not sure the ticking is even oil related, but if it is Im not sure its damaging or just annoying. So waiting 2K miles may or may not be an issue. If I let the dealer change the oil now (and maybe forever), at least its fixed with a low deductible since its on record they did everything to the engine, but it bothers me driving a new truck that sounds like a rattle trap.

Need to do this soon, its getting on my nerves!

Before you go prescribing a cure you need to identify the 'ticking' and if it is something abnormal.

You should get or make a "Mechanics Stethoscope" to identify where the sound is.

You could probably make one out of some tubing and one ear.

https://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-6...D=41dNYc8NrvL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-52500-Mechanics-Stethoscope/dp/B0002SQYSM

chrisbh17 · Jul 7, 2018

dexter said:
Before you go prescribing a cure you need to identify the 'ticking' and if it is something abnormal.

You should get or make a "Mechanics Stethoscope" to identify where the sound is.

You could probably make one out of some tubing and one ear.

https://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-6...D=41dNYc8NrvL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-52500-Mechanics-Stethoscope/dp/B0002SQYSM

I like the idea, but Im not sure how I could use those while the truck is actually in motion, which is when I hear the ticking that bothers me. At idle the truck is smooth as can be, and in park or neutral even if I rev it up there isnt any ticking to be heard.

Its only noticeable under load and under 2K RPM (or after 2K RPM the rest of the engine/truck noise becomes loud enough to drown it out).

Burla · Jul 7, 2018

We are on a forum where over 30 forum members have choose to run redline to fix these issues and nearly everyone of them it worked. It is the one thing that guys should consider running redline 5w30 and a RP filter, nice long oil change interval and will make the engine butter smooth. if your engine doesn't have ticks, use something else, but for this one issue you owe it to yourself to do what so many people here do?

It isn't like other oils at all, from every single molecule it isn't the same base as every single oil you can buy off the shelf. It has more anti wear and extreme pressure additives, it has esters which are dense molecules that are polar meaning they have an affinity to stick to metal, it has pao which is a stable branch chained lubricant, this oil is made to handle anything you can through at it. it isn't hype, it is formula. As it turns out Rams have so many issues with cam lifters and ticking, if you have a ticking condition I believe you should really consider this formula. Motul 300v 5w30 is another oil worth trying. If you can solve what is going on just by using a different oil, don't you think you should consider that? Maybe it wont solve the issue, but in that case all you did was pay a little extra for that oil change.

chrisbh17 · Jul 7, 2018

I'm all for trying it, I'm just not sure what my ticking really is. Could be something rattling, exhaust related, etc. Also there is the warranty, but Im guessing if the engine tanks they would see a perfectly clean engine with low miles and not really have any reason to deny a claim.

I suppose I could try an oci with redline and see how the engine responds

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

Murphy Slaw · Jul 8, 2018

I just got back from a 1700 mile round trip to Lake Charles, Louisiana. I ate crawfish and boudin and shrimp....

Used the toggle to kill mds the entire trip and got 21.5 mpg average on the trip (mostly Interstate) using the Cruise Control (which worked flawlessly). 3 people + luggage running a/c all the way. Last year, same trip / same people got 22 mpg using the mds.

I haven't gotten any kind of notice from FCA to not use my cruise, I've heard about a recall, but maybe my Mexican one isn't effected.

I'm still running the PUP 5w20 / SRT 0-40 mix with synthetic Fram and engine is quiet and smooth getting close to 20,000 miles.

huntergreen · Jul 8, 2018

Murphy Slaw said:
I just got back from a 1700 mile round trip to Lake Charles, Louisiana. I ate crawfish and boudin and shrimp....

Used the toggle to kill mds the entire trip and got 21.5 mpg average on the trip (mostly Interstate) using the Cruise Control (which worked flawlessly). 3 people + luggage running a/c all the way. Last year, same trip / same people got 22 mpg using the mds.

I haven't gotten any kind of notice from FCA to not use my cruise, I've heard about a recall, but maybe my Mexican one isn't effected.

I'm still running the PUP 5w20 / SRT 0-40 mix with synthetic Fram and engine is quiet and smooth getting close to 20,000 miles.

When did you start moving the SRT 0/40 in with the 5/20?

Murphy Slaw · Jul 8, 2018

huntergreen said:
When did you start moving the SRT 0/40 in with the 5/20?

On the 3rd change at 7000. The first was PYB by the dealer at 1000, the second was PYB by me at 3500.

It's been a 5 (5w20 Pup) / 2 (SRT 0-40 PUP) mix ever since. I get 3 oil changes out of a 6 pack of SRT that way, and it bumps up the moly a tad without bringing up the weight too much. Somebody here did the math once.

I remember it got the Burla approval back when I came up with the plan !

Hemi395 · Jul 8, 2018

PUP 0w40 is Hemi Honey number 2 as far as I'm concerned [emoji106]

R.L.K. · Jul 8, 2018

Murphy Slaw said:
On the 3rd change at 7000. The first was PYB by the dealer at 1000, the second was PYB by me at 3500.

It's been a 5 (5w20 Pup) / 2 (SRT 0-40 PUP) mix ever since. I get 3 oil changes out of a 6 pack of SRT that way, and it bumps up the moly a tad without bringing up the weight too much. Somebody here did the math once.

I remember it got the Burla approval back when I came up with the plan !

The PUP 20/40 mix is a fantastic oil [emoji1303][emoji1303]
I'd go with 50/50ratio or more 0W-40 but if the 2 qts of 40 wt is working well for you I wouldn't suggest a change .

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Fitz-0518 · Jul 8, 2018

Real close to saying, enough. Order RL 5-30 for 6.4. Warranty be damned. Over whelming evidence that our Hemi engines "prefer" Redline. Have seen it in my 03 5.7 and 87 GN Turbo. 2018 6.4 go's back to the dealer 7/9 for another week to try and locate/correct the exhaust leak.
I think I can rationalize changing the oil to RL when it comes back.
1. The only time I could have a warranty dispute is if the engine needs a major internal repair.
2. RL may very well prevent that confrontation day.
3. If it do's happen,,,,,will need to come up with some PUP or Amsoil MS 12663 receipts.

AFMoulton · Jul 8, 2018

Fitz87gn said:
Real close to saying, enough. Order RL 5-30 for 6.4. Warranty be damned. Over whelming evidence that our Hemi engines "prefer" Redline. Have seen it in my 03 5.7 and 87 GN Turbo. 2018 6.4 go's back to the dealer 7/9 for another week to try and locate/correct the exhaust leak.
I think I can rationalize changing the oil to RL when it comes back.
1. The only time I could have a warranty dispute is if the engine needs a major internal repair.
2. RL may very well prevent that confrontation day.
3. If it do's happen,,,,,will need to come up with some PUP or Amsoil MS 12663 receipts.

I can’t remember if you’ve tried Amsoil or not, but my 6.4 sits for about a week at a time and I don’t have the start up rap you talk about.

These are finicky engines for sure

2018 2500 6.4 4x4 4.10 Amsoil SS 0w-40
2016 Durango 5.7 AWD 3.07 Amsoil SS 5W-30
1996 Nissan Altima 2.4 Amsoil SS 5W-30

tidefan1967 · Jul 8, 2018

Fitz87gn said:
Real close to saying, enough. Order RL 5-30 for 6.4. Warranty be damned. Over whelming evidence that our Hemi engines "prefer" Redline. Have seen it in my 03 5.7 and 87 GN Turbo. 2018 6.4 go's back to the dealer 7/9 for another week to try and locate/correct the exhaust leak.
I think I can rationalize changing the oil to RL when it comes back.
1. The only time I could have a warranty dispute is if the engine needs a major internal repair.
2. RL may very well prevent that confrontation day.
3. If it do's happen,,,,,will need to come up with some PUP or Amsoil MS 12663 receipts.

I read on here somewhere that the way to get around the MS6395 BS is to go on Amazon and place an order for some PUP 0W40 or some other warranty compliant oil, print the receipt out for your records and then go back in a few minutes later and cancel the order and then keep that for warranty purposes and then you can put whatever you want in the truck. As long as the motor is clean inside when they tear it down (assuming you ever do have a problem since we all know that Redline is the be all end all of motor oils) you will be good to go. I wouldn’t think there’s any way in hell that they would test the properties of it to determine what the weight is anyway. Just my two cents worth as that’s what I intend to do anyway and a big thanks to the member that suggested it to begin with whoever you are!

AFMoulton · Jul 8, 2018

Also, worse comes to worst, I’ll email you my receipts from Amsoil and you can just change the name and address to match yours and warranty be damned.

In fact I would do that for anyone on here if they needed it.

2018 2500 6.4 4x4 4.10 Amsoil SS 0w-40
2016 Durango 5.7 AWD 3.07 Amsoil SS 5W-30
1996 Nissan Altima 2.4 Amsoil SS 5W-30

Fitz-0518 · Jul 8, 2018

AFMoulton said:
I can’t remember if you’ve tried Amsoil or not, but my 6.4 sits for about a week at a time and I don’t have the start up rap you talk about.

These are finicky engines for sure

2018 2500 6.4 4x4 4.10 Amsoil SS 0w-40
2016 Durango 5.7 AWD 3.07 Amsoil SS 5W-30
1996 Nissan Altima 2.4 Amsoil SS 5W-30

Yep I did. Amsoil SS 0-40 is of course a Tier 1 oil and was the first oil change at 1500 miles. "finicky" is the right word.

Fitz-0518 · Jul 8, 2018

AFMoulton said:
Also, worse comes to worst, I’ll email you my receipts from Amsoil and you can just change the name and address to match yours and warranty be damned.

In fact I would do that for anyone on here if they needed it.

2018 2500 6.4 4x4 4.10 Amsoil SS 0w-40
2016 Durango 5.7 AWD 3.07 Amsoil SS 5W-30
1996 Nissan Altima 2.4 Amsoil SS 5W-30

"World Class" members on this forum. Thanks

Fitz-0518 · Jul 8, 2018

tidefan1967 said:
I read on here somewhere that the way to get around the MS6395 BS is to go on Amazon and place an order for some PUP 0W40 or some other warranty compliant oil, print the receipt out for your records and then go back in a few minutes later and cancel the order and then keep that for warranty purposes and then you can put whatever you want in the truck. As long as the motor is clean inside when they tear it down (assuming you ever do have a problem since we all know that Redline is the be all end all of motor oils) you will be good to go. I wouldn’t think there’s any way in hell that they would test the properties of it to determine what the weight is anyway. Just my two cents worth as that’s what I intend to do anyway and a big thanks to the member that suggested it to begin with whoever you are!

yep makes sense.

Hemi395 · Jul 8, 2018

tidefan1967 said:
I read on here somewhere that the way to get around the MS6395 BS is to go on Amazon and place an order for some PUP 0W40 or some other warranty compliant oil, print the receipt out for your records and then go back in a few minutes later and cancel the order and then keep that for warranty purposes and then you can put whatever you want in the truck. As long as the motor is clean inside when they tear it down (assuming you ever do have a problem since we all know that Redline is the be all end all of motor oils) you will be good to go. I wouldn’t think there’s any way in hell that they would test the properties of it to determine what the weight is anyway. Just my two cents worth as that’s what I intend to do anyway and a big thanks to the member that suggested it to begin with whoever you are!

Yup that was me, I fake ordered PP 5w20 3 times. Printed the receipts as soon as I got the confirmation email and then canceled the order. My advice is if you're going to do that print 3 or 4 copies of it in case you lose one. You can't print it out again because it says cancelled right at the top and doesn't say what weight oil it is.

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