Synthetic Oil

NO, you don't add the anti slip just to add the anti slip. No offense to my boy 395, but you only add the additive if you have chatter and only one ounce at a time. Likely you will not need it, but if you feel any chatter, then follow the directions.

RodRam said:

Just curious not wanting to ruffle any feathers but why would you expect the diff fluid to be clear after 18k of heat cycling and being churned thru the gears and LSD unit? My Ram build sheet listed my diff as LSD "Limited Slip Differential" I never worried about the darkness of the lube what I didn't want to see was a metallic look but even a little of that is to be expected and will always be present on the first change just from the seating in of the gears. Nothing to worry about. chunks of metal... yes that's not good

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From past experience with other vehicles. I changed diff fluid at 25k and it wasn't nearly as cloudy as this fluid was after 18k. Definitely no metal chunks or anything so it was normal wear and tear...

Burla said:

NO, you don't add the anti slip just to add the anti slip. No offense to my boy 395, but you only add the additive if you have chatter and only one ounce at a time. Likely you will not need it, but if you feel any chatter, then follow the directions.

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Ha very good I stand corrected[emoji4]

I tow a lot and change diff fluid at 30k intervals. Sooner is a waste of money.

Burla said:

NO, you don't add the anti slip just to add the anti slip. No offense to my boy 395, but you only add the additive if you have chatter and only one ounce at a time. Likely you will not need it, but if you feel any chatter, then follow the directions.

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And don't forget the procedure for adding it, find a empty parking lot and do several tight as possible 360 degree circles in each direction to get the new dope all up in the clutches. Were talking slow... fast would be donuts and while they would serve the purpose and surely be more fun, police frown on it ive heard

Another man child, I mean Ram Child.

So now that we have veered off topic and hashed out rear end servicing can we get back to Oil? Question... many say we need to run a 0- weight for the best flow during a cold start but from the statistics the 0 means very little. example amsoil 0-20 has a 100c of 8.7 and a 40c of 46.6 where their 0-30 has 10.5 and the 40c is 58.2 so it is thicker when cold by a good bit. Amsoils 5-30 has 10.4 and 59.9 so its 5W is thinner than the 0w. Shouldn't the 0 be consistent over the different grades? Very confusing to me

Nothing is consistent over different grades. While 30 weights are still thin like 20 weights, they are completely different oils. Grade each oil separate by brand and stats. My trifecta is look at visc at 100, hths, and noack. Usually is an oil company adds something to monkey with visc, it would show up in hths. The one wild card is all of the voa's are done when the oil is perfect, a real test is a uoa and look at those numbers in the end of cycle state. Usually you won't get noack, but if the film (visc at 100) is the same number as it is with the voa, you have a good oil. And if your numbers are greater then most oils you can look up in those three areas, you have a great oil.

Do the Redline gear oils have extended oci (just like motor oil) when compared to the factory differential fill? If so how many miles you think ?


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Oil Stop uses Redline and they say it doubles the oil change interval for diffs and tranny/transfer case. If it is 30 in the book, it would be 60 before you needed a change. The one issue is always the tranny and how do you get it all out. So if you only drop the pan and don't get out all of the oil in the TC and lines then I'm not sure it would double the interval. Double check that with your local oil stop. If the manu was already using ester based gear lube, then I wouldn't think it would double it. I haven't kept up with the current info on that, but I believe gear lubes in the first area that manu's are looking to use Esters, with exception of some super high performance rides that call for esters in the engine.

One thing if you want warranty support they may argue if you tried to double the interval and had a failure. If you believe the manu has that right and are afraid of litigation, I wouldn't double your interval.

Does anyone know the moly content of the Castrol black bottle 5w30? From what I found on BITOG, it showed like 4???

This was an old UOA. I notice Castrol getting some love here lately but I though these motors did well with high moly. From what I've seen, Castrol black bottle has almost zero.

Burla said:

Oil Stop uses Redline and they say it doubles the oil change interval for diffs and tranny/transfer case. If it is 30 in the book, it would be 60 before you needed a change. The one issue is always the tranny and how do you get it all out. So if you only drop the pan and don't get out all of the oil in the TC and lines then I'm not sure it would double the interval. Double check that with your local oil stop. If the manu was already using ester based gear lube, then I wouldn't think it would double it. I haven't kept up with the current info on that, but I believe gear lubes in the first area that manu's are looking to use Esters, with exception of some super high performance rides that call for esters in the engine.

One thing if you want warranty support they may argue if you tried to double the interval and had a failure. If you believe the manu has that right and are afraid of litigation, I wouldn't double your interval.

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Also their logic doesn't add up when it comes to what the filter can hold!!!!!

Nut: PM Sent!

SyN said:

Nut: PM Sent!

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Thanks Syn!!

Found a four segment video posted on U-Tube published by BP\Castrol on the Magnatec motor oil label.
The second episode shows the "oil professor" graphing the engine wear rate vs 20 minute time period,
Indicating normal usage of a vehicle is 20 minutes for each trip.
The 2010 USA cenus for a typical city daily work commute is 20 minutes, this data is included in the cenus.
The maximum wear rate during the 20 minutes occurs between ten to fifteen minutes.

The Castrol oil professor also states the warm up period for a typical engine is also 20 minutes,
independent of the ambient air temperature.
After the 20 minutes warm up period and the oil temperature has reached steady state operating
temperature of approximately 212F the wear rate is almost zero, no wear at operating temperature.
The oil professor also states that 75% of engine wear occurs during the 20 minute warm up period.
So the oil is more viscous during warm up than at normal operating temperature but the wear I greater during this time period.
Therefore, the heavier oil with greater viscosity does not reduce wear.
The greater the flow rate of oil through the engine, the less the wear rate over time.
The oil flow rate is greater at normal operating temperature than during warm up because the oil is thinner and less viscous.
During the warm up period the oil is thicker, resulting in less flow rate through the engine and greater wear rate.
Firm believer that thinner oil is better than thicker oil for reducing wear in the engine.
The thinner oil was not available in the 70s & 80s when engines did not last as long as today.
Thicker oil was always used to compensate for a mechanical issue mainly worn rings.
Less oil was consumed using thicker oil.
That is how Lucas Oil got started with advent of the "oil stabilizer" to reduce oil consumption in worn engines.

I haven't found Castrol magnatec or edge to have a lot of moly, I'm hoping whatever they use does quite the motor, so far I'm 280 miles on 5-20 magnatec and still have a light tap till it reaches 200+ but warm its become quieter than when I put it in.

Burla said:

Redline ranges between 550 and 880ppm, the cost of Redline comes from the cost to make an ester base. But I would love to hear if Magnetec became a viable option for ticking Hemi's. Keep us informed.

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Burla is the moly content different on other grades? this voa of several brands of 0-20 including redline shows much more moly, also shows Castrol edge only has 3! This is from BTOG site. Its where I got the moly numbers iposted the other day.
the data read as; Castrol Honda Toyota Toyota Red RLI
shows redline 0-20 has 1290 ppm of moly
Code:
OIL TESTED: Castrol Honda Toyota Toyota Red RLI
………………….. Edge Genuine Genuine Genuine Line Bio-Syn
………………….. 0W20 0W20 black red 0W20 0W20
………………….. bottle bottle
………………….. 00279- 00289-
………………….. 0WQTE 1QT0W
………………….. 0W20 0W20
SAMPLE DATE: May 10 Sep 09 Apr 10 Dec 09 Sep 09 Sep 09

WEAR METALS:
Iron………………………. 1 1 1 2 2 1
Copper……………….. 0 0 0 1 0 0
Tin………………….……. 0 6 2 12 8 0
Lead…………………….. 1 0 0 0 0 1
Chromium……………. 1 0 0 0 0 0
Nickel…………………. 0 0 0 0 0 0
Aluminum………….. 0 1 3 2 2 0
Titanium……………. 51 0 0 0 0 0
Silver……………….. 0 0 0 0 0 0

ADDITIVE METALS:
Calcium….…………. 1702 1545 2071 1809 2213 1893
Magnesium…….…. 14 8 16 17 14 10
Zinc…..………………. 821 833 939 913 1565 1041
Phosphorous……. 878 831 856 900 1219 769
Barium……...……… 6 4 4 14 2 0
Molybdenum………. 3 1065 924 1200 1290 0
Antimony………….. 0 0 0 0 0 206

CONTAMINANT METALS:
Silicon…………….… 18 3 3 42 33 1
Sodium……..………… 344 3 6 5 34 10
Boron……….……….. 1 63 77 184 19 13
Potassium…………. 0 0 0 0 0 0
Vanadium………….. 0 0 0 0 0 0

PHYSICAL AND OTHER:
Viscosity 40°C 35.6 40.4 41.1 40.2 43.4 43.5
Viscosity 100°C 8.4 8.7 8.8 8.9 8.3 8.4
Viscosity Index 225 203 202 212 171 174
Flash(CCCFP)°F 395 410 400 375 395 410
TAN…………...………… 0.64 1.40 1.76 1.83 2.12 0.61
TBN……..…………….. 6.1 5.2 6.9 6.7 6.8 6.3
Oxidation…………. 19 16 32 15 158 152
Nitration…………… 5 4 5 6 7 6
Water by KF……. 920 1226 1100 1490 1676 1553
Fuel……..………….. 0 0.07 0 0.62 0 0
Soot………..……….. 0 0 0 0 0 0
Glycol……...….. 0.31 0.12 1.74 0 0 0
Sulfate byprod. 24 22 35 20 106 122

Redline has some changing moly levels, I've never heard of 1200. You never know when something like that happens the reason why. I would need to see a couple from different people to believe that. My uoa's 5w20 where about half that. If you would like a more precise answer, maybe email Redline and ask. One thing for sure, whatever Redline you use there will be a boatload of the stuff. That uoa is interesting, not blackstone? Post the actual uoa if you can.

I don't really have any comment anymore on oils w/o moly, I am pretty sure you all know where I stand on the issue, but many oil guys don't believe it is that important. UOA's would show they are more right then me, no doubt these oils are not having wear problems in comparison to oils with moly. However, when you have an engine in hemi tick condition, the wear #'s are almost always horrible. And I do not find it coincidence that when you hear about some cam failures the oil used had no moly. So while the numbers support moly is not necessary, in my opinion it is cheap insurance with no downside. Looks like that oil uses titanium as a moly replacement, I haven't really researched that, maybe I should. Looks good. Someday soon titanium oil supplements, lol.

My engine tick, the most interesting thing to me (other then the fact it worked) was how long it took for the Redline to end the tick. You would think if it was the polarity of the esters or the greater film strength that the tick would have ended right away. But the fact it took so long really goes to the evidence the moly took time to coat under the pressure just like all the white papers say. Now, three Redline oil changes later with different weights, still no tick condition.

thanks for the reply, there already is a titanium additive! If the magnatec doesn't quite the slight tap when cold I may add some molly additive to see what if anything happens. Titanium additive... good? or snake oil? Whats scary is his regular oil test bottle looks like castrols gold edge but it could have anything in it.

https://youtu.be/XhXgNk6pWlY
here's another video from same company

https://youtu.be/1F-azP07VJ4


here is supposed testimonials

https://youtu.be/x_EQonpBryg

seems a bunch of foreign folks have these machines and sell oil if titanium doesn't work just buy platinum!



https://youtu.be/_Xzpg1RhpDc

I have no info on that. I wouldn't add it til I knew more. On the off chance I would, I would definitely run it through a coffee filter before ever even thinking of adding it blindly. If it was useful you would think most companies would put it in like they do with moly. Maybe there will be widespread use of new elements trying to combat what the epa is doing.