Synthetic Oil

Oil of Choice

  • Castrol Syntec/Edge

    Votes: 233 8.4%
  • Royal Purple

    Votes: 325 11.7%
  • AMSOil

    Votes: 396 14.3%
  • Valvoline Synpower

    Votes: 160 5.8%
  • Mobil 1

    Votes: 992 35.9%
  • Other

    Votes: 660 23.9%

  • Total voters
    2,766

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U&A

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I traced the reason for the puro's and why I believed it ticked in my truck, not enough holes for full flow. I could have cared less to look into this until my truck ticked on one of these filters, a pic is worth a 1,000 words. We have been researching a listening to youtubes and research, there is nothing I've heard in the last 5 years that convinces me there is a better filter then RP. I've never heard anyone having an empty filter when changing oil, adbv is not an issue at all with hemi's, as in zero, never happened. They never keep oil in the lines, only the filter, and they work.

16618148574_24ba5c5d4b_h.jpg

Question.

Are you saying the slotted holes seen on the Purolator are giving less flow than the round holes on the royal purple?

Or are you talking about the perforation holes inside the filter?


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Burla

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inside or maybe both, dunno but I see why it could have ticked and in fact did tick,
 

U&A

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inside or maybe both, dunno but I see why it could have ticked and in fact did tick,

Ok.
Good

I was getting worried about you...

[emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]

I agree with your point that the perforations on the tube inside look like they have way less holes on the puro...But the slots on top of the Purolator yield much more flow then the holes on the royal purple..


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Burla

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Oils got to go through both, and the middle tube is covered by the media so that should really have good flow holes. I wonder if the other puro's are the same, because oddly enough the yellow puro did not tick on my truck. However, apparently the entire puro lineup was redone, so I don't even know what they look like now. RP earned my business like redline has until they loose it. Makes me appreciate the loose media of RP.

Part of me wonders does paper flow better? If the yellow puro and blue puro has the same construction just different media, leads me to believe in that brand the paper flowed better. **** I would rather not get into, seeing how much we are on board with RP. But just in the spirit of putting all the info out there, if someone is ticking on RP and Redline combo, I would at least try a paper filter before dumping. Just being thorough.

However, my yellow puro when cut open was totally blown, was not filtering at all, stiffer then cardboard.

12109332756_f1ca1f21f5_c.jpg
 

U&A

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Wanted to ask you guys your opinions on break in period for new gears.

just got a quote and hopefully scheduling for about two weeks away to re-gear my truck to 4:56’s. Front and rear regear, new carrier in the front, all necessary bearings and seals for $2100. Cant beat that.

His opinion was with the conventional oil they put in that is recommended by AAM to run an easy (now heavy towing or lead foot) 1500 miles,change it and your good.

But i have Heard a lot of people recommending 500 miles? That seems awfully short.

I was considering 1000 to 1500 miles to the first change.....then change it again one year from that (about 8,000 miles max) and then continue my normal OCI after that.


What are your thoughts?





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Ramnewbie

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Oils got to go through both, and the middle tube is covered by the media so that should really have good flow holes. I wonder if the other puro's are the same, because oddly enough the yellow puro did not tick on my truck. However, apparently the entire puro lineup was redone, so I don't even know what they look like now. RP earned my business like redline has until they loose it. Makes me appreciate the loose media of RP.

Part of me wonders does paper flow better? If the yellow puro and blue puro has the same construction just different media, leads me to believe in that brand the paper flowed better. **** I would rather not get into, seeing how much we are on board with RP. But just in the spirit of putting all the info out there, if someone is ticking on RP and Redline combo, I would at least try a paper filter before dumping. Just being thorough.

However, my yellow puro when cut open was totally blown, was not filtering at all, stiffer then cardboard.

12109332756_f1ca1f21f5_c.jpg
That yellow Purolator is the pure 1, they always advertised better filtering but it was always rumoured also had reduced flow.

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U&A

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Oils got to go through both, and the middle tube is covered by the media so that should really have good flow holes. I wonder if the other puro's are the same, because oddly enough the yellow puro did not tick on my truck. However, apparently the entire puro lineup was redone, so I don't even know what they look like now. RP earned my business like redline has until they loose it. Makes me appreciate the loose media of RP.

Part of me wonders does paper flow better? If the yellow puro and blue puro has the same construction just different media, leads me to believe in that brand the paper flowed better. **** I would rather not get into, seeing how much we are on board with RP. But just in the spirit of putting all the info out there, if someone is ticking on RP and Redline combo, I would at least try a paper filter before dumping. Just being thorough.

However, my yellow puro when cut open was totally blown, was not filtering at all, stiffer then cardboard.

12109332756_f1ca1f21f5_c.jpg

Paper filters BLOW!!

And regarding perforations in the tube inside the new Purolator’s they have a new hole design.

Think cheese grater

351a59b90210f860cea1f16901e3dc52.jpg


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Hemi395

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Wanted to ask you guys your opinions on break in period for new gears.

just got a quote and hopefully scheduling for about two weeks away to re-gear my truck to 4:56’s. Front and rear regear, new carrier in the front, all necessary bearings and seals for $2100. Cant beat that.

His opinion was with the conventional oil they put in that is recommended by AAM to run an easy (now heavy towing or lead foot) 1500 miles,change it and your good.

But i have Heard a lot of people recommending 500 miles? That seems awfully short.

I was considering 1000 to 1500 miles to the first change.....then change it again one year from that (about 8,000 miles max) and then continue my normal OCI after that.


What are your thoughts?





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This is me, but I would run conventional gear oil and change it at 500, then 1000, then 1500. Then go synthetic.

But that's me and I change my fluids more often then most[emoji846]
 

Burla

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Wanted to ask you guys your opinions on break in period for new gears.

just got a quote and hopefully scheduling for about two weeks away to re-gear my truck to 4:56’s. Front and rear regear, new carrier in the front, all necessary bearings and seals for $2100. Cant beat that.

His opinion was with the conventional oil they put in that is recommended by AAM to run an easy (now heavy towing or lead foot) 1500 miles,change it and your good.

But i have Heard a lot of people recommending 500 miles? That seems awfully short.

I was considering 1000 to 1500 miles to the first change.....then change it again one year from that (about 8,000 miles max) and then continue my normal OCI after that.


What are your thoughts?

I forget to be honest, but I know there are a couple gear break in procedures that have been posted before. AAM gears?
 

Hemi395

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What about the front diff? Do you have to use it like say go off roading or something to break it in?
 

Burla

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Paper filters BLOW!!

And regarding perforations in the tube inside the new Purolator’s they have a new hole design.

Think cheese grater

351a59b90210f860cea1f16901e3dc52.jpg

thats vindication for what I was saying, they must have had issues with lifter ticking from flow problems. And the new design must be better. I don't know why the companies even have as few holes as they do now. Those middle tubes should have huge cut outs imo. the synthetic filters have meshed back anyhow, they hardly need that middle tube.
 

U&A

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I forget to be honest, but I know there are a couple gear break in procedures that have been posted before. AAM gears?

Yes,

AAM. To be honest when the situation was in front of me as i was talking to the guy and I had to pick between 4.56 gears made in AMERICAN or 4.88’s made in China or Japanese (or the like)

I wanted American!!!

There are tons of manufactures for 488‘s and even higher ratios but the ones that fit the newer diff in the front of my truck are all made out of the country.

I support America as best i can.


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Burla

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This was one guys procedure, I'd look into it more.


we just use the gear oil reccomended by the OEM , but if its new gears the process is more involved . I know some guys put them in and drive 50-100 miles pop the cover and check the gear faces , then change the fluid . just do not get the rear hot, they say to stay under 60 mph too .
when I do AAM gears ( GM oe supplier) this is the break in we use
AAM Gear Break In Procedure

The break in is VERY specific.
-Drive 30-35 MPH for 20-30 minutes.
-Drive 55-60 MPH for 20-30 minutes.
-Come to a complete stop and let the diff cool (15 minutes minimum)
This is one cycle. Repeat this cycle 4-5 times.
If you don't do this EXACTLY, the diff WILL whine.
500 miles will be needed for a full break in. then change fluid . and wipe out any filings or clean the magnet .
 

U&A

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What about the front diff? Do you have to use it like say go off roading or something to break it in?

I frequently go to the back yard and woods and paly

But the front diff is always turning. The only place my truck engages and disengages 4x4 is in the transfer case. So the front axle and diff are basically parasitic drag all the time unless I’m in 4 x 4. they will get some wear on them but not under load. And if you think about it, if you’re pushing the front wheels (in 2x4) instead of the front wheels pulling the truck it will be wearing them differently and on the opposite side of the gear that if you were actually using 4 x 4.

So IMO,

4x4 is absolutely needed to break them in properly.




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HammerHead

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Mopar MO-339 oil filter compared to the M1-113A oil filter center tube. Hard to believe FCA wants us to put this oil filter on our 5.7 and 6.4 Hemi's.

MO-339 Top pic
M1-113A Bottom pic

IMG_0980.JPG

IMG_0983.JPG
 

SyN

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Just a quick note for those with either a newer HD2500 or HD3500 4WD: get the proper fitting/tool & pump a good quality grease into your front drive shaft. The grease point is on the back rear knuckle joint. It is not your normal grease zerk fitting.

I did mine a couple weeks ago: Trying to get slowly prepared for the winter months.
Low & Behold the dam joint was bone dry!
New Amsoil red grease went in & the same new red grease came out the back!
SOB! I woke up from a dead sleep & began thinking I needed to check & grease this joint. Freaking Crazy!

A new Ram with 1 grease point & the freakin thing is not serviced with grease on the assembly line. What a Joke!

For those who have never greased this joint ya better think about doing it! There are reports that some Rams have this grease point and some don’t!
I have a small white sticker under the hood on the drivers side fender well. Somewhat half A$$ explaining where to find the grease point.

Good Luck!

Quick Video: Marion makes me laugh my A$$ off! We have had quite a few conversations about his good videos.


I hope to meet up with him someday and have a few beers! We are so very much alike!


Marion uses that big ass 2 handed grease gun I use a small pistol type gun where I can have the other hand to guide the needle in the tiny hole in the fitting. Yes! You have to apply a $hit load of pressure to the fitting as you pump the grease in.
 
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