Synthetic Oil

14Tradesman said:

That graph has to be made for a specific transmission. The ratios in the transmission play a big role to.

For example, I had a 2006 F150. It had the max tow package and heavy duty payload package with the 5.4L, and 4.10 gears. I got really worried after I bought my 2014 Ram because I realized it had 3.21 gears. Well I did some math and the final drive ratio (transmission gear ratio multiplied by rear end ratio) on the F150 was higher than the Ram.

The F150 was something like 11:1 final drive in first gear and my Ram with the 8 speed is somethin like 15:1 in first gear. Learning that made me feel alot better.

I bet 3.92s are nice, but these 8 speeds really dont need such a low ratio in my opinion. Again, I would love to have 3.92s, but the with the 8 speed you dont really need them. In my opinion.


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If I'm not mistaken, that is the same chart that was on jeep forum since 2008. No idea if it applies to the 8 speed trans.

huntergreen said:

If I'm not mistaken, that is the same trap that was on jeep forum since 2008. No idea if it applies to the 8 speed trans.

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U&A another one of the **** show kings here, found this, damn worth it's weight in gold. That is like the badassiest thing I've seen this week. Gear ratio Calculator with every transmission! Spell check has badassiest underlined, wtf. I swear that has to have every transmission ever made on that thing. If they allowed tranny's in the pine wood derby that link would have it as an option.

Burla said:

U&A another one of the **** show kings here, found this, damn worth it's weight in gold. That is like the badassiest thing I've seen this week. Gear ratio Calculator with every transmission! Spell check has badassiest underlined, wtf.

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Don't have time to put in the numbers for our rams, but that should be very useful.

Burla said:

U&A another one of the **** show kings here, found this, damn worth it's weight in gold. That is like the badassiest thing I've seen this week. Gear ratio Calculator with every transmission! Spell check has badassiest underlined, wtf. I swear that has to have every transmission ever made on that thing. If they allowed tranny's in the pine wood derby that link would have it as an option.

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Thats pretty cool. I dont really have a use for it but alot of work went into making that page. Will tuck that into the memory bank if a need ever arises. Thanks.


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Thank Kyle, he went to the end of the earth to choose his new gear set. I'm pretty sure he is rolling with 4.88's.

@SyN I ordered that clear coolant overflow earlier this week and it should be here tomorrow or Saturday. Mine is black as well along with my washer tank. The washer tank I don't care about but the coolant overflow I want to see what it looks like at the bottom. Thanks for posting the link to that clear one, never knew there was one available...

You can let me know if it's the same for the 2500 and 1500. It looks the same imo.

Hemi395 said:

@SyN I ordered that clear coolant overflow earlier this week and it should be here tomorrow or Saturday. Mine is black as well along with my washer tank. The washer tank I don't care about but the coolant overflow I want to see what it looks like at the bottom. Thanks for posting the link to that clear one, never knew there was one available...

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Hey, do you happen to have that link handy? Went back a few pages but didn't see it. Thanks.

Finds Syn and check his posts, that way you don't have to look threw a bunch of pages.

here ya go.

you can see fitment guide below, looks like it fits 1500.

Why does the fitmant guide stop at 2010, which happens to be my year? Did it change?

Does yours look like that C?

Yeah that was going to be my next step, but he's got a lot of posts lol. Thank you sir!

Burla said:

Thank Kyle, he went to the end of the earth to choose his new gear set. I'm pretty sure he is rolling with 4.88's.

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Yes sir,

4.88’s. This truck is going to be SOOOO much happier. I haven’t told you the fun part. Remember when we talked about proper break in procedure for new gears?

I have to drive exactly 2 hours to drop my truck off for the gear change so guess what I have to do when I pick my truck up and drive home. LOL, i’ll have to take my time ALL the way home and follow proper break in procedure.. and i cant skip the cool down.

Its going to be fun.

Since I’m using nitro gears I’m going to follow their break in procedure and here it is.

https://www.nitro-gear.com/category-s/181.htm

Also,

I want to say that when Burla, Hemi, RLK and I went to HTC forum we SERIOUSLY we’re looking for a friendly place to start another oil discussion AND share the experience EVERYONE has had on this thread. At the time the oil thread in this forum was completely falling apart and we weren’t sure it was going to come back.

At HTC We were greeted in a way that ahowes we were not welcome. Simple as that.....and we left promptly.

Anyone that thinks Burla was the problem. Step back and take a look at the history of this thread and reconsider your thought. Butla simply stands up for what we have done together and what he believes. Not a thing wrong with that when what we have done here is being threatened by some.

Om done. I will not talk about this ANYMORE...

This thread has been GREAT lately with lots of new faces that have contributed a lot. Lets keep it up.




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The guy installing my gears carries to gear oil brands.

Schaeffers and Royal Purple.

Obviously i went for schaeffers. Should I wait till after my gear install to break the bad news to him about royal purple gear oil.

LOL.


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I bought my G37 all the way in Richmond, VA (500 miles from home). I know the whole "break in for the first *** miles" might be a myth, but instead of blindly believing that I took breaks at every other rest stop on the way home to drive around side streets to help vary speed, RPM, etc.

Probably added 2 or 3 hours to the 8 hour trip, but IMHO it was necessary. And when on the highway between breaks I used manu-shift mode to lock into different gears to help vary the RPMs.

Point being....sometimes we gotta do what we gotta do to solidify the future of our vehicles

I want to see if we can find a break in gear oil, if not shaeffers all the way. Many places have the same procedure for gear break in, I highly suggest someone changing gears follow that. You only have to be wrong once. Is there towns between you and the installer? Any side shows like the largest frying pan on earth displayed on the side of the road?

Did he suggest a weight? Probably the thin stuff yeah?

seams reasonable anyhow... Also, seams like no harm in adding a couple things we went over. A while at 50mph, a while at 60mph. Seams like the other things are compatible with this, maybe just go further.

BREAK-IN PROCEDURE:
In order to prevent damage to differential components it is essential to follow the break-in procedure after installation of a new ring & pinion. New ring & pinions will generate more heat initially after installation and can cause gear oil to break down, leading to premature failure. On your first drive, stop after the first 15 or 20 miles and let the differential cool for 20-25 minutes before proceeding. Drive conservatively for the first 500 miles following installation (avoid hard acceleration & towing). After completing standard break-in, tow for very short distances (less than 15 miles) and let the differential cool before continuing during the first 45 towing miles. Change the gear oil after the first 500 miles. This will remove any metal particles or phosphorus coating that has come from the new ring & pinion.
Premature overloading/overheating will cause gear oil to breakdown, and may result in parts failure.

RP or Shaeffers = easy choice?

Other procedures are compatible addons. I might even use Shaeffers for the fill after the first 500 miles, maybe switch to unicorn **** like past 5k miles at some point if that is what you are gonna use. Corey likes his Amsoil SG


On initial run, drive lightly for 15 to 20 minutes then stop to allow differential to cool completely for 20 to 25 minutes.
• Avoid towing and heavy acceleration, as well as vary speeds every 5 to 10 minutes while driving on highways.
• Drive conservatively and do not drive more than 50 miles at a time without allowing a cool cycle during the first 500 miles following installation.
• After completing initial break-in, change gear oil at 500 miles. Small metal particles are normal and gear oil will typically be black. Excessive metal in gear oil should be reviewed by a competent differential mechanic to ensure safety of internal parts.

Post gear oil change and initial break-in: Towing.
• First time towing should be limited to light load for no more than 15 miles, then allow differential to cool completely for 20 to 25 minutes.
• Repeat this procedure for first 45 miles of towing for full break-in of gears for towing vehicles.



If there is a warranty I'd even let them do the gear fluid change at the 500 mark. Can't be that much $, but I admit driving two hours for a gear fluid swap is prolly something I wouldn't do.

Kyle are you gonna change covers? Are you gonna put a temp gauge in there? It would be kind of nice to see the temps as you are driving after the swap, especially if it's something you were gonna do anyhow. I am pretty sure Corey is doing it.

Burla said:

Kyle are you gonna change covers? Are you gonna put a temp gauge in there? It would be kind of nice to see the temps as you are driving after the swap, especially if it's something you were gonna do anyhow. I am pretty sure Corey is doing it.

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I’ll be honest I really do follow what Mr. bank’s is saying about the shape of the cover.

I absolutely don’t agree with everything he says but I do see his point in how the cover greatly affects the flow of oil.


One of my list of things to do is actually MAKE my own cover. Copy the OEM shape but extent it out a bit for mor capacity.

Its more of a wish list. I can do it no problem at work. Just don’t really have the time right now. And i have these 3 Mopar signs i still have to make for these 3 clowns i know.



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That would be bad ass making your own, dang.

I can speak for all the clowns, we can wait on those signs. For the forum who doesn't know, he is speaking of the sign I have in my Avi, Kyle made that and came up with the paint job. SRT stripes through hemi orange with that bass ass stainless front.