Synthetic Oil

Riccochet · Feb 4, 2014

What's the take on Valvoline SynPower? That's what I usually use. Decent oil?

rocket · Feb 4, 2014

Riccochet said:
What's the take on Valvoline SynPower? That's what I usually use. Decent oil?

I'd say it is alright, lets face it...a major majority of the vehicles driven today are driven by mindless lemmings who wouldn't no oil from vinegar. That being said, are the highways strewn with cars and trucks with blown motors and leaking filters??

use any oil an change the filter regularly and the hemi will just keep running....might even give that energizer bunny a run for the money......no hate....peace. :secret:

VB712 · Feb 4, 2014

I use Rotella T6 in my 2500

smiley · Feb 4, 2014

Riccochet said:
What's the take on Valvoline SynPower? That's what I usually use. Decent oil?

In tests I have seen it is among the best of the group 3 synthetics for wear protection. It does not last as long as say Pennzoil ultra due to TBN getting too low but it does very well with wear. Walmart sells it for about $25 for 5 quarts which is pretty great pricing. It is my go to unless I plan ahead and get Amsoil. I usually run between 7k and 10k depending on feeling and timing of the seasons.

$miley

bskl76 · Feb 5, 2014

Burla, please get a magnetic drain plug

Burla said:
So the analysis came in, they emailed me it in PDF and I love that, got the results right away-thanks Blackstone Labs. 8 or 9 days after I mailed it across the country, here it is posted on the net.

Things to note, number one this was a new engine that also was very loud meaning I had a lot of metal to metal contact. Also, I'm sure I didn't get all of the old oil out so some of this is also related to that as well. So IMO wear metals has nothing to do with oil choice at this point. If I did a couple more UOA's of the same oil and that trend continued, I would be concerned.

Other things to note, the additive package looks about as good as you can get. if I didn't tell you this was a used oil analysis those numbers look as good as when you first put it any oil. TBN is great, if not for the wear metals which may go away next time anyway, this is a long oil change interval oil. Remember, this oil is 5k miles and 1 year of service at this point. Look at far column for averages, Redline held all of it's additives more then the averages by a lot.

If you do this make sure you fill the sample container to the top. My bad on that one and I knew it. I was too lazy to go back and get more oil after I drained the filter back into the crank. I missed out on a good test because I did that.

I am going to get a catch can in the next couple months, and then change out the Redline and do this again a year after that. I am very happy with my choice now.

Thanks Burla for sharing ur oil analysis. Bet if u had tht magnetic drain plug all those metal particles wouldn't show up on analysis. lol

DublDee · Feb 6, 2014

I'm just curious about the weight of oil I should be using? I bought 7 quarts of Redline and a RP filter, but when I checked on the redline website it suggested 5w20 (which I bought), but should there be a consideration for the harsh Winter temps up here in western Canada, or is 5w20 the correct application regardless? Again any help is appreciated.

smiley · Feb 6, 2014

DublDee said:
I'm just curious about the weight of oil I should be using? I bought 7 quarts of Redline and a RP filter, but when I checked on the redline website it suggested 5w20 (which I bought), but should there be a consideration for the harsh Winter temps up here in western Canada, or is 5w20 the correct application regardless? Again any help is appreciated.

0w-20 is better especially in the cold and if available is all I use. It helps with startups as it moves better when cold and has no effect on MDS. They say it also helps with fuel economy although I doubt that it is noticeable. I actually don't know why they don't recommend 0W-20 right on the cap it is better when you consider startup is where wear happens most.

$miley

rocket · Feb 6, 2014

DublDee said:
I'm just curious about the weight of oil I should be using? I bought 7 quarts of Redline and a RP filter, but when I checked on the redline website it suggested 5w20 (which I bought), but should there be a consideration for the harsh Winter temps up here in western Canada, or is 5w20 the correct application regardless? Again any help is appreciated.

smiley3303 said:
0w-20 is better especially in the cold and if available is all I use. It helps with startups as it moves better when cold and has no effect on MDS. They say it also helps with fuel economy although I doubt that it is noticeable. I actually don't know why they don't recommend 0W-20 right on the cap it is better when you consider startup is where wear happens most.

$miley

5w-20 will work fine, however I have too agree to disagree,on the thinner oil......a degree of thickness will add more protection ,(while running),than the the 0w weight. That being said ,smiley is right that the thinner oil would coat the cylinder walls quicker at start up in - degree weather.....kind of like a catch 22 if ya ask me......because the start up session is drastically less time, than the actual running of the motor, i would stick too the 5w,oil,imo. Or use what I do,.....a couple ounces or motorkote....it bonds to the metal inside the motor...protecting against start up wear......least thats what it claims. Call it snake oil.......but ya gotta believe in something these days...... :happy175:

Burla · Feb 6, 2014

rocket said:
5w-20 will work fine, however I have too agree to disagree,on the thinner oil......a degree of thickness will add more protection ,(while running),than the the 0w weight.

Rocket the 0 in 0w20 has nothing to do with thickness at operating temps, the 20 does. So you are exactly right when you say the thinner oils do not protect the engine, but 0w20 and 5w20 is about almost the same exact weight at operating temps, it is just that 0 weight is better in sub zero weather, but the difference is really miniscule. Actually it even looks like 0w20 can be a hair thicker then 5w20 at operating temps, depending on the brand I'm sure. Here ya go bud, here is a PDF on oils look at viscosity at operating temps. 0w20 9.1 and 5w20 9.0- 5w30 11.9 0w30 11.7. The yellow highlights are viscosity of the oil at operating temps. Hope that helped man

From the research I've done 0w20 is a better oil (flows faster in the cold as well as flows in coldest temps and you sacrifice nothing over 5w20 depending on brand of course), it will take a couple years to get there because I still have the best part of 2 cases, but I will switch when I run out of 5w20. If I continue to get copper wear, I think I'm going to try 0w30.

redline oil pdf

smiley · Feb 6, 2014

There you go nice answer with numbers Burla. I think you pointed out a common misnomer. People will say run 10w-30 to me and will ask why would I want thicker at startup only to have the same at operating temp. I think 0w-30 would be nice to run if I shut off MDS or did not have it but since spec is for a 20 I use 0W-20 it helps start easier in subzero temps. These new 0W oils are truly amazing. Not sure the truth but Amsoil claims that it actually is better at holding up than 5W oils according to a video I watched. Since Ram is confident in 20 oils I am too so I don't use a 30 in my Ram just the wife's Journey.

$miley

Burla · Feb 7, 2014

smiley3303 said:
I think you pointed out a common misnomer.

Yeah, honest mistake for sure, who wouldn't think that is a better question. The VII's have become so advanced that we have lighter weight super oils. They use the VII's heavily in the thinner oils because if they didn't the oil's viscosity would fluctuate to dangerous levels.

Oils geeks and freaks only past this point...

From Text. When viscosity improvers are added to low viscosity oils, they effectively thicken the oil as temperature increases. This means that the lubricating effect of mineral oils can be extended across a wider temperature range.

Even though these additives make oil much better then without them, thus why you never heard of 20 weight oil used in the old cars when VII's weren't as common place, you still can see why a 30 weight oil would still be a better choice IMO. VII's are near perfect, but can leave your engine susceptible to shear. Just another reason to consider group 5, because that base will shear less then all the others.

Paratone.

A little history of the winter rating, long read but geek approved for sure.

smiley · Feb 7, 2014

Great point and that is what oil does before it completely gives out and becomes sludge so often I hear people saying they don't want to push their oil as it will sludge but really there is time before that where damage can happen to when oil shears and becomes very thin and does not protect. Hence why Burla and many others do the tests to see when enough is just right because you don't want to drive around with shearing for a long time. That is actually what happens to me when I use Amsoil XL and try to push it too far die to a lot of quick trips and stop and go driving 10k is lot to ask of XL or any oil of similar grade. ASL and Redline can eliminate those fears because you could 10k with either in pretty much any application and not have to change filter in between with solid results no shearing.

$miley

hemihustlin · Feb 7, 2014

IIRC redline 5w20 contains no VIIs whereas 0w20 does therefore making the 5w20 a completely shear resistant oil so "better" in my eyes. Or is the shearing that will occur with the 0w20 so negligible we should choose based on climate?

Burla · Feb 7, 2014

Are you talking about racing oil?

smiley · Feb 7, 2014

I thought it pretty much had to have VIIs to be multi-viscosity. How else would they do it?

$miley

rocket · Feb 7, 2014

Burla said:
Rocket the 0 in 0w20 has nothing to do with thickness at operating temps, the 20 does. So you are exactly right when you say the thinner oils do not protect the engine, but 0w20 and 5w20 is about almost the same exact weight at operating temps, it is just that 0 weight is better in sub zero weather, but the difference is really miniscule. Actually it even looks like 0w20 can be a hair thicker then 5w20 at operating temps, depending on the brand I'm sure. Here ya go bud, here is a PDF on oils look at viscosity at operating temps. 0w20 9.1 and 5w20 9.0- 5w30 11.9 0w30 11.7. The yellow highlights are viscosity of the oil at operating temps. Hope that helped man

I stand, no wait, DRIVE corrected. ty, :banana-mario:

hemihustlin · Feb 7, 2014

No the redline passenger car oil or whatever its called, blue label right
I must have read that on bitog
Also, taken from your winter link, which was an excellent read by the way

The poly-ol esters are not only very very strong, but they replicate the viscosity change of the ideal engine lubricants with temperature, e.g. acting as a 20W50, without the addition of viscosity modifiers.

MOPAR78 · Feb 8, 2014

I've had good luck with Dodge factory filters and Mobil 1. 93 Dakota with 5.2 had 315,000 miles. 05 Ram 5.7 has 362,000 miles and still rolling.

Burla · Feb 8, 2014

hemihustlin said:
No the redline passenger car oil or whatever its called, blue label right
I must have read that on bitog
Also, taken from your winter link, which was an excellent read by the way

Burla needs to do some more research, I would agree if that was the case that 5w20 would be better IMO then 0w20 if the 0w20 had VII's and 5w20 didn't. However, like Chewy stated I believe that is how they achieve the winter rating. So hopefully that info is out there, post that link if you can find it.

pickupman66 · Feb 8, 2014

Purchased 8qts of amsoil today. Going to give it a shot. Also amsoil filter and then a bottle I need yo put in first and let engine idle to clean out the Dino oil deposits. $94
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