Synthetic Oil

Oil of Choice

  • Castrol Syntec/Edge

    Votes: 233 8.4%
  • Royal Purple

    Votes: 325 11.7%
  • AMSOil

    Votes: 396 14.3%
  • Valvoline Synpower

    Votes: 160 5.8%
  • Mobil 1

    Votes: 992 35.9%
  • Other

    Votes: 660 23.9%

  • Total voters
    2,766

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Nutshell

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Buddy , I'm in the same boat as you are my friend , I've only 1ea uoa under my belt with my oil of choice ( which gets HAMMERED ) here on a regular basis ?

I'm mainly going off of feel and sound as well .
For MY RAM 5.7L , it sure Like's the Redline oil , others not so much .
I've never bashed on their oil to my knowledge ? If I have I'm sure someone will chime in with a copied post of mine .... I would congratulate them .

Thing is with Blackstone Lab saying I should exceed 10,000 miles with Redline oil then everyone crying about the added cost just shouldn't imo , it cost me $101.00 filter and oil to do my last oil change , that's $50.50 each 5k , most people are scared to death to go beyond grandpa's 3k RULE much less 5k and even fewer would extend to 10k + like me and many others based on lab results.

I do max of 2ea oci a year and I feel with what REDLINE OILS bring to the table , I'm in better shape than anyone getting it done @ the dealer with their bulk oil out of date , full of condensation , mixed with whatever the 10$ per hr guy said ( uuhh yeh put that in that 500 gal container dude ) .

You never know what your getting ( Quality wise ) at the dealer or oil change shop .
I suggest everyone pours their own .

I've worked @ quick oil Chang shops ! 30 yrs ago ... Wow ! I'd never let them or the dealer change my oil again , especially after what I delt with at a local dealer of mine .

well , I'm stepping off my soap box now ..... let the Redline bashing begin

If it's working for you, go with it! There not much more to it. You know you have a great oil protecting your motor and keeping it quiet. That's a win in my book
 

raven3

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RE: Redline fans
Checkout BITOG , Amsoil- strategic direction thread
MolaKule tuned to this thread saying RL is higher % PAO than POE, if interpreted correctly, page 5.
When MolaKule talks everyone listens!
 

smiley

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Trust me Sir , even though Blackstone Labs suggested I go 10k + on a oci I personally do not feel comfortable with going over 5k ! ☆☆☆EDIT ☆☆☆ my Pepaw in me I guess ☆☆☆☆☆
It took everything I had to push my last OCI to over 5k [emoji53], then 6 [emoji21] ,7[emoji36] , 8 [emoji34][emoji30]+ + plus thousand miles with REDLINE 5W -30 oils !
Look here now , when I drained it out , it was transparent ! Not burnt up , not thin as water ( like the dealer bulk oil )
I'm confident the oil I'm using today is better than most .....better than all ? Well I just don't know the answer to that .
I guess time will tell ?

For NOW the buzz seems to be Amsoil in 20 wt , , I'm certinly not against Amsoil ; however, I'd most likely not run any oil in a V-8 Engine in a 20 wt , ( other than a high detergent $ $ cheep $$ flush ) in my trucks engine [emoji38][emoji4]☺



I go 10k on off the shelf group 3 often. I would probably be scared to go 20k though with redline.
 

Nutshell

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Here's exactly what he said. The guy knows his stuff for sure;

Here is the only statement I can find from Redline regarding their base oil constituents:

Quote:
Paragraph A. Red Line Motor Oils are designed to provide the highest degree of protection and cleanliness for your automotive, motorcycle, or marine engine. We use the most stable synthetic components available and formulate our products for wear protection across a wide range of engine operating conditions.

Paragraph B. Red Line lubricants are unique because they contain PE Polyol Ester base stocks, the only lubricants which can withstand the tremendous heat of modern jet engines. This high-temperature stability makes our motor oil a necessity to properly lubricate a turbocharger or hot-running engine.

Paragraph C. The synthetic base stocks have a natural multigrade property, which means that large amounts of unstable polymeric thickeners, like those used in petroleum oils, are not required to manufacture our multigrades.

Notice what Paragraph A. and B. doesn't say:

That Polyol Ester base stocks are the Majority base oil.

That PAO base stocks are the Majority base oil.

So one is left with the inference that Redline Oils are at least a mix of Group IV and Group V base oils.

I have stated this before, a synthetic motor oil cannot be made from 100% PAO.



Edited by MolaKule (Yesterday at 10:02 PM)
 

RodRam

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Well i agree redline is good oil although we are not running jet engines snd don't think cleanness is one of the virtues by RLK's PYB flush being near black only after 500 miles so even if the oil can hang for 10-12k imo its not good for the motor to do that. Also makes you question why wasn't that gunk caught by the RP filter? This just bolsters the theory that it may be better to use a cheaper oil and good filter and change at 5k. But im old school and 10k seems way to long to go without a OC if you want your motor to live a long time seems like fresh oil and filter every 5k would be a better option
 

Hemi395

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Last Thursday I drained my 20/30wt mix out and poured in a full 7 quarts of 5w30 Amsoil SS but I didn't get a chance to drive it until this morning. I will probably be running this oil and viscosity going forward as my truck seems to like it. I used to have a tick that started once the oil reached ~190* that is barely noticeable at all anymore and my oil temp got up to 212* today. MDS works just as it did on all the other oils I tried.

So is it the 30wt or is the Amsoil SS that made the difference? I'm guessing its because its a 30wt and any good synthetic Xw30 oil will produce the same results. But now that I've found an oil my truck likes I'll likely stick with it.
 

raven3

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Voting with 5w30 QSUD for the summer on 3500-4000 OCI with Fram Ultra XG10060 from current QSUD 5w20.
May just stay with 5w30 after summer will see what difference is in mpg.
Change oil about six week intervals, us CA drive at lot.
If mpg drops 2 mpg will go back to 5w20.
Agree that Amway oil SS is better oil than QSUD and will last longer with less shear down being PAO based, but suspect it has excessive carbon build up on pistons, similar to redline
 
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RodRam

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Raven thats several time now that you called amsoil amway oil mistake or are u trying to tell is something? :crazy: How long do you plan to run QSUD miles wise and do you consider it better than mobil1 both in 5-30 weights?
 
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Danno

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Well i agree redline is good oil although we are not running jet engines snd don't think cleanness is one of the virtues by RLK's PYB flush being near black only after 500 miles so even if the oil can hang for 10-12k imo its not good for the motor to do that. Also makes you question why wasn't that gunk caught by the RP filter? This just bolsters the theory that it may be better to use a cheaper oil and good filter and change at 5k. But im old school and 10k seems way to long to go without a OC if you want your motor to live a long time seems like fresh oil and filter every 5k would be a better option

We run mobil in turbine engines. The oil is cleaner after running through the filter than when it leaves the bottle. Oil leaving the bottle gets cleaner after running through the filter in many applications.

Do you change your oil in a sterile environment?? How about the funnels, last time clean, what was it cleaned with, any fibers or dust remaining in it. Pretty much it's splitting hairs.
 

Nutshell

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Going with 5w30 QSUD for the summer after labor day on 3500-4000 OCI with Fram Ultra XG10060 from current QSUD 5w20.
May just stay with 5w30 after summer will see what difference is in mpg.
Change oil about six week intervals, us CA drive at lot.
If mpg drops 2 mpg will go back to 5w20.
Agree that Amway oil SS is better oil than QSUD and will last longer with less shear down being PAO based, but suspect it has excessive carbon build up on pistons, similar to redline

Why would this oil lead to carbon build up?
 

kevperro

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I sub'd the thread a while back hoping to see some folks with the v6 Pentastar posting in here but haven't seen it yet.

I have 1 more pre-paid dealer/FCA oil change on my VIN before I start looking at other options (4 oil changes for $80)

Up All Night Sleep All Day via my LG G4 on Tapatalk


There is just a bunch of antidotal evidence floating around. You have to sift through a lot of noise to find lab oil analysis supporting claims and then it isn't necessarily meaningful for your engine or use.

If you use the manufacturer recommended oil and change interval you cannot go too far wrong.

If you are **** like me, I use Penzoil Synthetic in the 5W-20 and plan to run at my computer specified intervals. I'm going to get a Blackstone lab oil analysis after my first synthetic change, including the TBN, to assure myself that the factory engineers know what they are doing (I trust nobody).

Thereafter I'm going to do an oil analysis annually to check for fuel/coolant leaks and as a reality check on my change intervals.

Is that more than necessary? Yes... it is. Any oil that meets the Chrysler spec is likely to keep your engine running as long as the most expensive synthetic in normal everyday use as long as you perform normal maintenance. If you are going to spend money on anything an annual oil analysis to see if you are developing problems is more beneficial than buying synthetic (IMHO).

Cost over the lifetime of the vehicle for **** OCD based behavior?

Based upon keeping the vehicle 12-years - 300K miles in my case:

$10 extra per oil change (do them myself) for Penzoil Synthetic
$28 for UOI + $10 when performing the TBN count.

About $700 over the life of the vehicle vs. just buying the specified oil and running a factory interval without analysis.
 
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RodRam

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Wix-xp filters... In the past a lot was said here and on BTOG about the XP not filtering good and had a low micron rating but that was back i 2013 when the XP came out and most was mis information and conjecture i found some new info from Wix that may be of interest. It states its a 100% better than regular wix at 35 microns? Isn't that awful big particles compared to what other makers use? Maybe it is just a rock catcher .... Also lists at the bottom this info is for the filter# that fits the Ram 5.7.......
Wix XP Oil Filters use synthetic media and provide robust engine protection when using synthetic motor oil for extreme driving conditions such as towing, extreme idle time, lower gear mountainous climbs, long periods at highway speeds and extreme cold throughout the OE manufacturer's recommended oil and filter change interval. A specifically formulated HNBR gasket provides an excellent seal during extreme cold engine starts and resist hardening under elevated oil temperatures. For spin-ons, Wix XP silicone anti-drain back valves protect against dry starts past the traditional filter change interval. Wix XP Oil Filter Laboratory Test Performance per ISO-4548-12: 32 grams dirt* - up to 100% more than Wix - 99% efficient at 35 microns** (Based on *51515XP - **51356XP, 57060XP)
 
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SilverStreak88

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Wix-xp filters... In the past a lot was said here and on BTOG about the XP not filtering good and had a low micron rating but that was back i 2013 when the XP came out and most was mis information and conjecture i found some new info from Wix that may be of interest. It states its a 100% better than regular wix at 35 microns? Isn't that awful big particles compared to what other makers use? Maybe it is just a rock catcher .... Also lists at the bottom this info is for the filter# that fits the Ram 5.7.......
Wix XP Oil Filters use synthetic media and provide robust engine protection when using synthetic motor oil for extreme driving conditions such as towing, extreme idle time, lower gear mountainous climbs, long periods at highway speeds and extreme cold throughout the OE manufacturer's recommended oil and filter change interval. A specifically formulated HNBR gasket provides an excellent seal during extreme cold engine starts and resist hardening under elevated oil temperatures. For spin-ons, Wix XP silicone anti-drain back valves protect against dry starts past the traditional filter change interval. Wix XP Oil Filter Laboratory Test Performance per ISO-4548-12: 32 grams dirt* - up to 100% more than Wix - 99% efficient at 35 microns** (Based on *51515XP - **51356XP, 57060XP)
So basically me switching from the standard WIX to the WIX XP was good. I run only WIX on everything, I've run Fram and other brands, but for the price and performance that (I've seen) in WIX you can't beat it.
 

GoldDot

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No cold start noise issues with the royal purple 20-820 i instAlled 3 weeks ago. Going to stick with them until they give an issue.
 

R.L.K.

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No cold start noise issues with the royal purple 20-820 i instAlled 3 weeks ago. Going to stick with them until they give an issue.
No cold start noise issues with Royal Purple 10-48 on 2 ea diff oil changes .

I'm gonna stick with my RP filter too , Untill I have a reason to change . For now I've no reason to change ....

Is the 20-820 the larger RP Filter ?



To the post above about the " negativity " on Redline oils ,

For me , I think REDLINE OIL is a fantastic choice above the Bulk oil full of junk , condensation and out of date crap the dealer puts in for " free " ,( my personal experiences proves this as fact ! ) there are lots of great oils out there Gentleman , Amsoil , QST. , PYB , the list goes on & on .....

Bottom line , if the oil you choose :

1) keeps your engine running smooth and quiet as a mouse .

2) gives you a GREAT UOA & TBN From a Respectable lab .

3) Gives you ZERO issues with MDS .

4) After +8,000 + miles drains out basically transparent , (brown NOT Black )

5) After 8k+ miles LOOKS like it could be ran for 4-6k more miles .

6) Has temps & pressures consistent with the manufacturers recommended oil type & wt .

Then run your oil and feel good about it as I do , take the information within this thread to your advantage., and make a good personal decision on the oil YOU choose to pour in your engine .

This thread is LOADED with fantastic information my friends , for now I AM a REDLINE oil Homer , and I'll likely be a Redline oil user for at least 2 ea more UOA'S , to prove to MYSELF , not all the REDLINE haters , that my choice to pour in RL oil is a good or bad decision.

I'll continue to post my uoa results and if I get negative results with RL oil , I will not eat crow ( not required for me imo ) , I'll just simply use the information within this GREAT thread , bitog , elsewhere and MY OWN personal experiences to choose my next oil type & weight .

I'd like to say : THANK YOU ! To ALL that have constructively contributed to this thread ie ... syn , BBB aka Burla , RodRam, Hemi395, Raven3 and many , many MORE !
You Guys have opened my eyes to SO MUCH information on things to consider on a simple subject as an oil to use in your vehicles engine ....

I have come to the conclusion that it's likely any 30 wt ++ oil would've made me happy with my LOUD engine noise being reduced to a level to which I would be happy with ; however , my 1rst attempt was RL oil , trust me this was not a decision I made from the hip , plenty of personal research was completed on my part ... I chose RL to be my first attempt to quiet my engine , and it worked !
I've since realized RL doesn't have the detergent #s other ( lesser oils have ) I haven't found an additive to boost detergents only yet ...

I challenge the wisdom of this thread to inform me of an additive I could put in my RL fill to boost detergent for proper cleaning of carbon and such .
I thank you for a suggestion gentleman .

As for why my flush with PYB 20WT OIL was so dark after only 564 miles , well ... maybe the " crap " RL Left behind ? Maybe the PYB 20WT just isn't that great ? Maybe the PYB detergents really cleaned the left over crap from a FANTASTIC 4-5 GEN Ester base oil , lacking in higher detergents? ?

The RL oil came out relatively transparent , lots of folks have bragged here and abroad on how GREAT RP 10-48 filter is ?
I personally think the RP-10-48 filter is a step up from most other filters ?

In my closing I'd like to say again , thanks to all the constructive contributeres of this thread , I've learned a ton here , probably as much here through the knowledge displayed and the links provided by all ( well no links by Raven3 ) LOL
Sorry R3 pun intended ...
@ R3 I do enjoy your terribly informative post Sir !
 
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RodRam

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RLK nothing personal only using your experience as the latest info, as to redline its good oil is it a miracle oil id say its no better than any other good oil in the same weight as the many that seeking a cure for noise issues many have tried it and some are happy many were not. Hemi395 and nutshell both ran it and it did nothing special for them they both dumped it and now are using other oils with better results. The RP is a good filter but the one im using now might just have a weak by pass as i have had 3 fast tock starts recently , since no one has proven exactly why this happens im switching to a filter that i never had one with . This oil journey we are all on is a personal thing no truck is the same we all live in different areas and many other factors are at play. So hope everyone keeps posting their info and don't take info as personal attacks as all info might have use to someone.
 

R.L.K.

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RLK nothing personal only using your experience as the latest info, as to redline its good oil is it a miracle oil id say its no better than any other good oil in the same weight as the many that seeking a cure for noise issues many have tried it and some are happy many were not. Hemi395 and nutshell both ran it and it did nothing special for them they both dumped it and now are using other oils with better results. The RP is a good filter but the one im using now might just have a weak by pass as i have had 3 fast tock starts recently , since no one has proven exactly why this happens im switching to a filter that i never had one with . This oil journey we are all on is a personal thing no truck is the same we all live in different areas and many other factors are at play. So hope everyone keeps posting their info and don't take info as personal attacks as all info might have use to someone.
Well said Sir , we are good Sir , I hope everyone continues to post up their info as well .
I'll be posting my info , the good , bad and the ugly

Sorry if my last book I posted sounded like a rant or if it sounded like I felt as if I was under attack .
It's easy for text to be taken out of conText. ..
I went back and read that post , could easily be taken differently than my intention.
Just to be clear I'm good with everyone here , I do enjoy this syn thread , definitely one of my favorites!
 

Hemi395

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While the Amsoil SS 5w30 is running great in my truck, I may try RL 5w30 next I'm not sure. One thing I do know is RL 5w20 was the best 20wt I ran hands down.

I'm really thinking the key to quieting the Hemi (if it's noisy) is 30wt, not necessarily the brand of oil. Personally I will be running either Amsoil or RL 5w30 in the future and will continue posting my experiences and UOAs
 
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