Synthetic Oil

I never knew a smart Rick before, you are the first

There are a lot of good oils out there, main thing ti to put the good stuff in your engine, it is much better then cheap ol dyno oil. Check out PQIA, you wont find Redline numbers there yet, they just got around to doing Amsoil. I'm sure eventually they will have every oil up there.

PQIA’s mission is to serve the consumer of lubricants by testing and reporting on the quality and integrity of lubricants in the marketplace. It is expected that this improved visibility of quality will lead to wider conformance by lubricant manufacturers to specification and performance claims.



One last note, it appears to me by reading PQIA that every oil that fails prematurely are dyno oils. Some of these cheap brands don't even put a minimum additive package in there. If you use cheap dyno oil, definitely check PQIA and make sure you are not using an oil on their list and read the information WHY. There is nothing wrong with using Dyno/Conventional oil, but they are not all created equal, and some of them are extremely dangerous to the internals of your engine. Most of the national brands are safe, but some local brands will kill your engine.


Here is one example of PQIA work,

Bullet Premium Motor Oil

Distributed by:
Oil Distributing Co, Cincinnati, OH

CONSUMER ALERT:

Bullet Premium Motor Oil claims to be a 5W-30 and to contain detergents, protect against wear, and fight rust and corrosion. PQIA's analysis of this sample shows that its viscosity is nearly 60% below the minimum requirements for a 5W-30, and it contains no detergents or anti-wear additives. The test results show this product does not meet the requirements of the obsolete SC/CC specification it claims, or any other industry recognized specification for motor oils.

The extremely low viscosity of the product tested, together with the lack of vital additives, would likely result in damage to automobile engines.


Here's a list if you are using any of these oils you should stop immediately and read why on PQIA.

Auto Club 5W-30
Auto Club ATF
Bullseye 5W-30
City Star 10W40
City Star ATF
Everclear 10W-30
Everclear ATF
Liberty Gold Plus 10W-40
MaxiGuard 10W-40 and 10W-30
Platinum Plus 5W-30
Royal 10W40
Royal Star 5W30
Star Petroleum 10W-30
Super Star
Super *** 10W30
Tri Star ATF
US Economy 5-30
US Spirit
XTREME 2000 Super Premium 10W-30

Thanks for all the good info burla. It will be put to good use.

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2

Y r w

I used to run Comp Cams oils in my old tire spinning toys,but i didn't find it listed in any of the tests you linked too.
You've convinced me to give Redline a whirl,if you're not a salesman for Redline,i think you missed your calling,you make a hell'va salesman,lol

Well I used to be a salesmen, maybe some habits die hard. As for redline, I have no ties but maybe I should call them up and see if they have an opening, haha. Also, I am learning there are also other group 5 oils like Motul out there. I believe any group 5 with a decent additive package what is important, if you want the best technology has to offer.

I was kinda shocked when I went to oilstop, while they didn't have Redline motor oil (mainly because they want you to use Mobil 1) they did have redline gear oil. Funny the dude was telling me Redline gear oil was the best stuff you can use in your gears but maybe it didn't click to him that maybe they should be selling their motor oil too. They sell the redline gear oil as a twenty dollar upgrade if you want to "best".

If amsoil was easier available I wouldn't mind spending the extra money for it but I can 5qts of mobile 1 and a wix filter for $30 all with 5mins of my house.

Nothing wrong with that, I used M1 for around a decade and was totally happy with it. I assume you mean 7 quarts of oil, I hope you are not using 5 qts in the Hemi.

Ok hoping to have my truck in a week or two....so i am going to ask a very abasic question...what wt are you using...i use Amsoil in my Goldwing...

5w20 in the Hemi.

As I have said I other posts 0W-20 is the best oil you can put in anything calling for 5w-20 it will help reduce startup engine wear where most wear actually occurs.

Also I posted this in another thread seemed pretty relevant.


No I don't sell Amsoil I just like oil and debating it.


$miley

What about Schaeffer? Its supposed to be better than RP but i dont know much about it. My father-in-law swears by it. They do free sampling after every oil change too.

AF_Hemi said:

What about Schaeffer? Its supposed to be better than RP but i dont know much about it. My father-in-law swears by it. They do free sampling after every oil change too.

Click to expand...

Heard very good things about it but I have never seen any studies or actual stats on it.


$miley

Wix, K&N, RP oil filter. What's the best oil filter to go with when using synthetic?

One of the best oil filters widely available is Fram ultra, double synthetic fiber- reinforced metal mesh- silicone anti drain valve- grip for hand instal/removal, 15 thousand miles rated. Fram used to be the joke of the industry, but they actually have done something about it. Go to bobs and check it out, Fram Ultra gets nothing but respect over there. As for your question, basically you just need any filter with synthetic fiber instead of cellulose, personally on your list I like RP because it also has heavy duty housing.

Peti817 said:

Wix, K&N, RP oil filter. What's the best oil filter to go with when using synthetic?

Click to expand...

I run RP filters, no problems


Sent from rock using chisel and hammer

Burla you convinced me,i switched to Redline oil in the motor at 1200 miles.

What do you guys reconmend for diff and tranny fluids.

I switched my rear diff to Redline 75W-140 at the same time,but i'm not adverse to dropping it out if there's something better

You should not use Redline at 1200 miles, it even says so on the bottle. Anyhow, if you already switched I'm sure you will be ok, they just want you to change out the wear metals that come with the first changes. You need to start using redline at around 3,000 miles, after the engine is broke in and you changed it a couple times. As for dif and tranny, there are a ton of great engine oils out there, but fewer for those applications, and widely known is that Redline makes the best differential fluid and they make a transmission fluid especially for the dodge transmission.

When you first switched did it take 7 quarts? The reason I asked is because the first oil change with redline and it was like the engine absorbed a quart, lol. I still can't figure it out, no leak anywhere and 8 quarts in the engine. It is running great and hasn't used any oil, but I have no idea where that quart went.

The reason why Redline is so good in those applications is because they are not part of any combustion process like the engine. The transmission and gears benefit incredibly by having the anti friction properties of a true synthetic ester based oil. Not to mention the incredible heat dissipation. The only thing that puzzles me is why the heck other companies AREN"T doing it! I just don't get it, group 5 oil has crazy properties not found in the cheaper base stocks.

Not to say it isn't great to have in an engine, but bottom line is you can make an argument that because you have to change the engine oil so often, it makes less sense to use a high quality expensive oil. But because there is no combustion in the transmission or gears, it is ridiculous on how long that oil will last if you chnage to redline. Even oilstop doubles the recommendation when you use Redline in the gears, but truth be known you probably can quadruple or more the recommended change interval by using redline in that application. I still have the factory fill in my dif because I'm not at 15k miles yet, but when I switch to redline I plan on running it up to 100k. The reason is because of the friction reduction there just wont be wear metal in there like you would get with factory junk oil.

check out the reviews online with their gear oil, crazy customer satisfaction-welcome to the Redline cult, lol.

These days the machining practices are good enough,i wasn't too worried about switching it out at 1200 miles.
LOL,awright glad i picked up some 75-140 and threw it in the diff.
I ran Amsoil in my older toys rear diff's,this is the first time i've tried Redline in either the motor or diff.
I pre-filled the filter and it took the reconmended amount of oil,in fact might even be a touch over full.
I wonder how accurate the dipstick is?

Wanted to update some info based on a PM I received and some mis-information I posted. After a little research I found that Fram Ultra does not use synthetic fiber, but rather a mix between synthetic fiber and cellulose similar to mobil one filters. While this filter is substantially better then cellulose alone, I cannot give it a high recommendation and wonder why the guys over on BITOG do so. I you are running true synthetic oil and want an extended change interval, I'd use royal purple filters or other 100% synthetic fiber filters.

are wix filters synthetic?