Ticking while in mds

2010 1500 5.7 hemi 113k

Been noticing this a lot more lately. I have a very long driveway with trees on both sides so it echoes and you can hear it clear as day. But anyways. Slowing down from about 20 until the mds shuts off it will tick very loud from passenger side. I've been reading a lot of post of guys with 11 hemis having problems with cylinder #5 for the most part. It was at the dealership last year and they said that the passenger manifold was slightly leaking. So Now My question is what could be causing my ticking in mds mode slowing down. If I slap the shifter to delete a gear. The ticking immediately stops. Anyone have any suggestions on where to start? Does is sound like the mds is bad? Or internal problem like the 11s




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Did you check to see if you have a broken exhaust manifold bolt???

stimpy433 said:

Did you check to see if you have a broken exhaust manifold bolt???

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I would start there. I have a tick in mine too and I am going to see if putting redline 5W30 will help as I have checked the bolts and nothing is obvious.

FYI i read the title as tickling while in MDS... need my eyes checked.

You want to use a high detergent oil or a cleaner in your oil if you think the mds is having issues lifting and/or falling. Notice the end of the video, you see your mds in action. You can search the forum for hemi tick, it is covered weekly and is a well known issue. It seams to be about 50/50 if it is lifter tick or exhaust bolts. One thing you really need in these hemis is a properly operating pcv. If yours is due, you need to replace. Look at a procedure that also cleans below the pcv as well. Sludge can mess with your mds, if you have it you will want to get the sludge out. Best way to get the sludge out, properly operating pcv and new oil. do a search.

Burla said:

You want to use a high detergent oil or a cleaner in your oil if you think the mds is having issues lifting and/or falling. Notice the end of the video, you see your mds in action. You can search the forum for hemi tick, it is covered weekly and is a well known issue. It seams to be about 50/50 if it is lifter tick or exhaust bolts. One thing you really need in these hemis is a properly operating pcv. If yours is due, you need to replace. Look at a procedure that also cleans below the pcv as well. Sludge can mess with your mds, if you have it you will want to get the sludge out. Best way to get the sludge out, properly operating pcv and new oil. do a search.

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When should the PCV be replaced?

I believe it is every 30k, at a minimum you can take yours off and clean with with a good solvent at 30. Replace by 60k for sure.

Burla said:

You want to use a high detergent oil or a cleaner in your oil if you think the mds is having issues lifting and/or falling. Notice the end of the video, you see your mds in action. You can search the forum for hemi tick, it is covered weekly and is a well known issue. It seams to be about 50/50 if it is lifter tick or exhaust bolts. One thing you really need in these hemis is a properly operating pcv. If yours is due, you need to replace. Look at a procedure that also cleans below the pcv as well. Sludge can mess with your mds, if you have it you will want to get the sludge out. Best way to get the sludge out, properly operating pcv and new oil. do a search.

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I will definitely grab one from the parts store and try it out. Oil was just changed 500 miles ago. What kind of cleaners do you suggest to use? I've never had a problem with a pcv valve on anything I've owned. Would that cause a rough sporadic idle after it is up to operating temp.


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I'll tell you I learned this when I did my trade training from an old dude that could fix anything you got an engine with a top end valve tick when you change your oil replace 1quart of your oil with atf and you will be amazed. My father had a noisy tick in his Chevy 4.7 and they are bad for ticking he has been doing it ever since I told him to do this he now has 280k on a 4.7 that runs as quite as new and I have done this to all my toys and have been a mechanic for 15 years now and never seen a problem

Burla said:

I believe it is every 30k, at a minimum you can take yours off and clean with with a good solvent at 30. Replace by 60k for sure.

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I am definitely not familiar with this. Do you happen to have a PN for this or a write up of some sort? I am at 33 right now.

ATF = super high detergent with a viscosity of 7, and yes every old mechanic including me has likely used it once or twice in the crankcase. But the oils back then aren't like they are now. You can now get high detergent oils. If you add ATF you sacrifice protection from shear. Worth a shot if you have tick would be my opinion, take it out quick if it doesn't work.

1quart over stretched over 6 is minor imo and id only use it with conventional oil syn or semi no

NOcasio7 said:

I am definitely not familiar with this. Do you happen to have a PN for this or a write up of some sort? I am at 33 right now.

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Not familiar with a pcv? It stands for positive crankcase valve. It relieves engine pressures on the TOP end, when the pcv is plugged the pressure has to go somewhere, if your lucky it will go through the valve cover gasket, if not maybe a head gasket. Whenever they are clogged and somewhere else is relieving the pressure, it can cause sludge much easier then when it's working. My personally theory is the PCV is the number one reason for pre mature engine failure. It is something anyone can replace, just google it there are many vids on it. Mine doesn't even need a tool, just turn it and lift out.

Read up here on catch can and pcv.

Burla said:

I believe it is every 30k, at a minimum you can take yours off and clean with with a good solvent at 30. Replace by 60k for sure.

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So after work I am going to pick up a pcv and try replacing it. Is there anyway of just looking at it and possibly seeing that it is clogged? And I remember someone saying that the tb may be caked up with some crap too should i use seafoam to try and get the intake and such cleaned up? If you have another suggestion on some things I can do to hopefully rule out lifter tick.. what is the best way to check and see if the manifold is leaking did not see any broken bolts at least that I could see. Should I change the oil again just to be sure? Not to sure how I feel about putting any amount of atf even if it is just a quart inside my motor the last thing I need it to have a catastrophic failure. What suggestions do you guys have to help clean the sludge if that maybe the problem. And what kind of oil should I run? Currently running Castrol 5w 20 and a mopar oil filter. I am someone who is very religious with oil changes. What kind of oil is the rf crowd running in their hemis?


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Burla said:

Not familiar with a pcv? It stands for positive crankcase valve. It relieves engine pressures on the TOP end, when the pcv is plugged the pressure has to go somewhere, if your lucky it will go through the valve cover gasket, if not maybe a head gasket. Whenever they are clogged and somewhere else is relieving the pressure, it can cause sludge much easier then when it's working. My personally theory is the PCV is the number one reason for pre mature engine failure. It is something anyone can replace, just google it there are many vids on it. Mine doesn't even need a tool, just turn it and lift out.

Read up here on catch can and pcv.

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I do have an OCC I put in about 7K miles ago. I took out the PCV last night and it still makes the rattle sound so I guess that is a good thing although I am interested in cleaning it, what would you use to clean it out?
Once I saw where it was and grabbed a step stool i was able to twist it and then took an Oring Seal tool and popped it up. Super easy.

Ask Syn he cleaned his recently. I would use something like brake cleaner.

ddd

Luxuryram10 said:

So after work I am going to pick up a pcv and try replacing it. Is there anyway of just looking at it and possibly seeing that it is clogged? And I remember someone saying that the tb may be caked up with some crap too should i use seafoam to try and get the intake and such cleaned up? If you have another suggestion on some things I can do to hopefully rule out lifter tick.. what is the best way to check and see if the manifold is leaking did not see any broken bolts at least that I could see. Should I change the oil again just to be sure? Not to sure how I feel about putting any amount of atf even if it is just a quart inside my motor the last thing I need it to have a catastrophic failure. What suggestions do you guys have to help clean the sludge if that maybe the problem. And what kind of oil should I run? Currently running Castrol 5w 20 and a mopar oil filter. I am someone who is very religious with oil changes. What kind of oil is the rf crowd running in their hemis?

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A good idea is to take some 1 inch hose, I like the firm clear house you can get at the hardware store, semi flexible. 24 inch should do, put one side to your ear and one side to each bolt, sorry I forget the name but a member here taught me that.

Read hemi tick threads, my truck had hemi tick very bad. I used Redline 5w20 and then 5w30, both have kept the tick away now 5 plus years, and until then I had hemi tick all the time in my brand new fricken Ram. It takes 500 miles or so for ir to work, and works about 80% of the time with forum members. Don't take my word do a search. Most guys run Royal Purple filters with this, they are synthetic so they last long and are high flow. Synthetic filter is important because you will want to extend your oci to pay for the increases cost of redline oil. I have run tests with uoa's in the syn thread, I am now on a 2 year oci with redline and still have a year in the bank when I change my oil. Due to low miles yearly and after doing a UOA I feel completely comfortable doing so. If you run 10k a year, reldine will easily go that year, no uoa needed, just do a once a year change.

Since you are picking up the valve, just change it.

Cleaning TB is always a good idea, it is completely separate for all of this and has nothing to do with any tick I've ever heard of. Sea Foam is a great product when used through intakes, it does nothing when dumped into gas tank.

Like I said ATF in crankcase was old school, I wouldn't do it either especially in a truck taking 20 weight oil. Although it will clean the crap out, so will a properly running engine with modern oil, especially with an ester oil or a high detergent oil like PUP. I don't know how long it has been since you had a tune up with mopar plugs, but I would consider this when you get rid of the tick if you haven't had one within 30k miles.

Update.

Change the pcv. Found out the tick I am hearing is the passenger manifold. So that'll get fixed here soon. Cleaned the tb and ram seafoam through the intake and man it made for one hell of a smoke show. And got it running smooth again.

Still cannot explain why the mds rattles as you're slowing down but until I can get some custom tunes to turn it off I'll just use the shifter. Thanks for all the help


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Luxuryram10 said:

Update.

Change the pcv. Found out the tick I am hearing is the passenger manifold. So that'll get fixed here soon. Cleaned the tb and ram seafoam through the intake and man it made for one hell of a smoke show. And got it running smooth again.

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900+ years of R&D on your HEMI and they still can't figure out carbon deposits. Suck

I'm glad you were able to work out some of your problems!

The smoke you see when using SeaFoam is the SeaFoam burning and not the carbon deposits.
This argument is widely covered in the net and in youtube where you can see SeaFoam smoking same way as in a old car, but this time in a brand new lawnmower.
This don't exclude that SeaFoam is cleaning your engine, but the smoke is not carbon deposits burning off.
Chris