What's the best supercharger for 5.7L

SKWURLZ · Mar 29, 2017

I believe the 2013 and up kits use an SCT X4, pre-loaded. You would supply your VIN# when you place your order. The 2015 and later, you have to send in your PCM to SCT and have it unlocked first, before you can load the file.

Detailed color Instructions come with every kit.

BlueRT · Mar 29, 2017

Tune

Thanks for the information! Getting a "good" tune file for the supercharger along with good street drivability for my year and model Ram is my biggest concern. A preloaded tune file on a SCT handheld tuner included with the kit would be sweet. Now I'm really getting anxious!

Jerzyvr4 · Apr 16, 2017

In my opinion i have the 8-speed transmission even though it's supposed to handle more torque the shifts are so fast and the RPM drop is so little you're going to be in Prime power for the centrifugal after first gear. Plus with no weight over the rear tires a positive displacement blower might be a spin Fest. The Magnuson or Whipple will surely put more stress on the engine and transmission having 6 to 8 pounds of Boost from 2000 RPMs to redline. the worst thing you can do is have a lot of boost on an engine in the lower rpms. six to eight pounds of boost isn't a lot of boost but it's still stock internals none the less and a lot more stress on the engine. The part where the most stress is being at top dead center and the longer it's there with Boost on it is more stress the Piston has to deal with. But you'll have the same amount of stress on the transmission once you hit red line and start shifting to the gears with all power adders.

A centrifugals will only hit Max boost at Max RPM. A good rule of thumb is that if you're at 6 PSI at 6000 RPMs you will be at 3 PSI at 3000 RPMs and it will climb to 6 PSI by the time you hit Redline. But only at Redline will you achieve your maximum boost so you're literally there for a split second and then you're shifting. Centrifical will most likely also be the most consistent for back-to-back pulls due to they are probably unarguably the coolest form of boost temperature wise. Which means less chance of heat soak.

A Roots/twin screw blower will be at Max boost at 2000 RPMs to redline.* Most people who don't know too much about power adders today especially the new Roots blowers they aren't just two blades inside the case. they are a twisted helical hybrid Roots / twin screw rotor which means they are pretty efficient for what they are. They have three to four twisted rotors. Also with the 1900 and 2300, the 1900 will create more torque down low but less Peak horsepower and the 2300 will create less torque down low and more peak horse power. the 2300 is in no way shape or form too big for our engines. the Mustang guys before the 5.0 came out we're running a 4.6 liter dual overhead cam with 3.0+ blowers on top.* The new 5.0 Mustangs are running Whipple 2.9 and 2.3 liter blowers all day everyday.

Turbo will spoil by 3000 RPMs is properly set up. but usually the cost of the kit and install is at least 1000-4000 more in cost.* I don't really want to divulge Into Turbo too much. they are the best horsepower per PSI but most american car owners won't even consider turbo just because of the stigma in the past about them. For the most part is money is not an option turbo the way to go.

Now my situation may be different than everybody else's but my truck is a lease and I would like to be able to take everything off the truck and resell it. ProCharger is going to be the easiest. Plus it's going to be the most reliable in my opinion especially if you stay with the canned tune from ProCharger and not push the limits with a tuner. When I say reliable I'm talking about from your axles all the way to your engine less stress down low in the RPMs means more reliability especially when your working with components that was never ment to have boost.* Also in my opinion ProCharger needs to drop the P and the D from bolt on kits because the P in the D cannot compete with a 2.8 or 2.9 liter positive displacement blower I believe they are rated up to a 1000 crank horsepower. And thats f1a territory.* But I'm not an engineer I'm sure there's a lot of factors that I don't know about.

Whats my experience you ask?* 2014jeep with 7psi whipple 2.9 (8speed) and we are terrified to floor it for longer than 5 secs lol.* 6.4's rings are weak as ****.*

2009 challenger was 10psi on a d1sc fully built engine trans etc.* Currently at HHP going for 15psi now.

Had a 3000gt turbo.* Not really in the league with our hemi's but none the less. Good experience with forced induction.

SKWURLZ · Apr 17, 2017

Jerzyvr4 said:
In my opinion i have the 8-speed transmission even though it's supposed to handle more torque the shifts are so fast and the RPM drop is so little you're going to be in Prime power for the centrifugal after first gear. Plus with no weight over the rear tires a positive displacement blower might be a spin Fest. The Magnuson or Whipple will surely put more stress on the engine and transmission having 6 to 8 pounds of Boost from 2000 RPMs to redline. the worst thing you can do is have a lot of boost on an engine in the lower rpms. six to eight pounds of boost isn't a lot of boost but it's still stock internals none the less and a lot more stress on the engine. The part where the most stress is being at top dead center and the longer it's there with Boost on it is more stress the Piston has to deal with. But you'll have the same amount of stress on the transmission once you hit red line and start shifting to the gears with all power adders.

A centrifugals will only hit Max boost at Max RPM. A good rule of thumb is that if you're at 6 PSI at 6000 RPMs you will be at 3 PSI at 3000 RPMs and it will climb to 6 PSI by the time you hit Redline. But only at Redline will you achieve your maximum boost so you're literally there for a split second and then you're shifting. Centrifical will most likely also be the most consistent for back-to-back pulls due to they are probably unarguably the coolest form of boost temperature wise. Which means less chance of heat soak.

A Roots/twin screw blower will be at Max boost at 2000 RPMs to redline.* Most people who don't know too much about power adders today especially the new Roots blowers they aren't just two blades inside the case. they are a twisted helical hybrid Roots / twin screw rotor which means they are pretty efficient for what they are. They have three to four twisted rotors. Also with the 1900 and 2300, the 1900 will create more torque down low but less Peak horsepower and the 2300 will create less torque down low and more peak horse power. the 2300 is in no way shape or form too big for our engines. the Mustang guys before the 5.0 came out we're running a 4.6 liter dual overhead cam with 3.0+ blowers on top.* The new 5.0 Mustangs are running Whipple 2.9 and 2.3 liter blowers all day everyday.

Turbo will spoil by 3000 RPMs is properly set up. but usually the cost of the kit and install is at least 1000-4000 more in cost.* I don't really want to divulge Into Turbo too much. they are the best horsepower per PSI but most american car owners won't even consider turbo just because of the stigma in the past about them. For the most part is money is not an option turbo the way to go.

Now my situation may be different than everybody else's but my truck is a lease and I would like to be able to take everything off the truck and resell it. ProCharger is going to be the easiest. Plus it's going to be the most reliable in my opinion especially if you stay with the canned tune from ProCharger and not push the limits with a tuner. When I say reliable I'm talking about from your axles all the way to your engine less stress down low in the RPMs means more reliability especially when your working with components that was never ment to have boost.* Also in my opinion ProCharger needs to drop the P and the D from bolt on kits because the P in the D cannot compete with a 2.8 or 2.9 liter positive displacement blower I believe they are rated up to a 1000 crank horsepower. And thats f1a territory.* But I'm not an engineer I'm sure there's a lot of factors that I don't know about.

Whats my experience you ask?* 2014jeep with 7psi whipple 2.9 (8speed) and we are terrified to floor it for longer than 5 secs lol.* 6.4's rings are weak as ****.*

2009 challenger was 10psi on a d1sc fully built engine trans etc.* Currently at HHP going for 15psi now.

Had a 3000gt turbo.* Not really in the league with our hemi's but none the less. Good experience with forced induction.

Huh? Not sure where to even start with any of the above... but good on ya.

moregrip · Apr 18, 2017

Back in my late model Chevy Truck days I drove my 6.0L LQ4, stock internals with a Magnuson MP112, the only issue I had was the crank pulley spinning on the crank which was fixed when I cut a keyway in for later stuff. Pin kits are available and I would recommend them(not sure if our Hemi's are press fit, but prob are). At 7lbs of boost she was a dream to drive. On the street it had more usable power because in all honesty I was rarely at redline so my LS motor felt more like a very torquey Big Block and it was niiiice! No reliability issues even with the minimal top ringland in the LS or most modern engines these days. After that I bumped up to an MP122 and then a TVS 2300 but those were different setups all together. IMO a positive displacement blower is better suited for street/strip type driving.

Vancouverdodgeguy · Feb 17, 2018

charonblk07 said:
Adding to what Sloth said, just because it makes more boost doesn't mean it makes more power. Every blower housing has a maximum volume and while you can always spin the internals faster (until it chokes) to move more air you do so at the expense of generating more heat. Every compressor housing, regardless of type, has efficiency islands when you relate the mass flow, compressor velocity, and pressure ratio. A compressor housing that generates 7psi at 4000rpm with a 76% efficiency will make more power than a housing making 10psi at 5000rpm with a 60% efficiency because the amount of heat induced into the system will offset the additional increase in pressure; mass flow is what needs to be looked at, not boost pressure. Intercoolers/aftercoolers help correct this issue to a degree; you are reducing flow velocity and pressure as the air now is passed through an exchanger core to get a higher air density but at a lower pressure/velocity.

A 7psi turbo should be more efficient than a 7psi supercharger due to the amount of power required to drive the supercharger vs the exhaust driven turbo. The A/R ratio and turbine wheel diameter will determine how fast a turbo spools up and more importantly, how quickly it will run out of volume and choke out (trying to pack more air in than it can).

Your missing one major point and that is the back pressure created by your exhuast pushing the turbo eats away at the power created by the 7psi. The bigger the turbo the more created back pressure. Now you just wasted money on your aftermarket exhaust upgrades!
Another problem with turbo is that your dealing with extremely hot temperatures on the turbo components that will wear out much faster than a supercharger. Who wants to start hacking away at your exhaust system to fix your turbo?

Electric supercharger/turbo kits sound interesting, this can give the best of both low end & high end torque plus efficiency. Unlikey will it bring BIG hp at hi revs though.

Vancouverdodgeguy · Feb 17, 2018

Hemi_1340R said:
So I'm trying to follow all this so don't hate ! So is a supercharger a better option vs twin turbo mine would be a daily driver just want to smoke ecoboost! Is one more reliable than the other ?

Cold air induction and cat back should be more than enough to smoke an eco-boast. Ive beaten a couple when running all oem! You have a 5.7 right?

2010 Infantry Vet · Feb 18, 2018

Go with the 2.9 whipple. All the guys on the SRT8 site are running them for a reason...full boost at any rpm. Personally on previous cars I have ran all 3. Paxton novi2000 (centrifugal), kenne bell (roots style), and twin turbo. All 3 of these were on a stroked and forged mustang GT.
1.) I saw a lot of guys mention on here that a centrifugal blower doesnt need the intercooler that the roots does. Not true at all. Any forced induction application should have an intercooler to cool the air intake temp for more power. If you go over 8psi its pretty much a must to have one.

2.) centrifugals dont make anywhere near the amount of torque throughout the band as a roots type. Centri makes it pretty much all at the top of the rpm range. Roots makes it pretty even throughout the rpm range.

3.) boost. Centrifugals take a long time to reach full boost. Roots is off idle. Turbo decides on the size, or twin turbos on how fast they build boost.

When I add a power adder, it will be the whipple 2.9 I wish kenne bell made a blower for our rams, but I havent seen one yet.
I attached a pic of my twin 57mm turbo kit i had on my mustang. They are nice, but pricey. Kit without injectors, fuel pump, and ignition was $12,000.
620 rwhp 605 rwtq at 20psi. (Street tune). Race tune was 30 psi 800 rwtq 820 rwhp.
ONLY reason i went twin turbo was kenne belle didnt make a blower that would make more than 600rwhp at the time. (2004). If they would have made the mammouth blowers they make now, thats what i would have ran.
You CAN'T beat full boost off idle.

2010 Infantry Vet · Feb 18, 2018

Honestly if i saw a centrifugal supercharger kit that did NOT include or have an intercooler as an option, I would steer clear of it. High friction fast moving air creates a ton of heat. It needs to be cooled back down to work efficiently. Kinda like a cold air intake for a naturally aspirated motor.

customcarz973 · Feb 18, 2018

scisteve said:
Hey guys, I am looking to do some performance work on the truck. .. who makes the best supercharger? Anyone doing a turbo setup?

I have a turbo, but im not allowed to talk about it here lol... no lag, easy install. comes in a kit.

LeesEvoX · Feb 18, 2018

customcarz973 said:
I have a turbo, but im not allowed to talk about it here lol... no lag, easy install. comes in a kit.

You can talk to me about turbos all day my friend.
Turbo > supercharger any day of the week.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

2010 Infantry Vet · Feb 18, 2018

Tachtech did a 2.9L whipple install and review, but i dont know how to post the link. He ended up getting 550 rwhp at 7.5PSI at 5,000ft corrected.

Wild one · Feb 18, 2018

2010 Infantry Vet said:
Tachtech did a 2.9L whipple install and review, but i dont know how to post the link. He ended up getting 550 rwhp at 7.5PSI at 5,000ft corrected.

He also had a rod fall through the side of the block shortly afterwards,lol

2010 Infantry Vet · Feb 18, 2018

Wild one said:
He also had a rod fall through the side of the block shortly afterwards,lol

Drive it till it breaks, then you have a reason for a forged 392.

Dapk · Mar 17, 2020

LeesEvoX said:
You can talk to me about turbos all day my friend.
Turbo > supercharger any day of the week.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Till heatsoak kicks in which is usually after your 1st pass or pull and your down a ton of HP.
I have 2 fast turbo cars (GN & Supra) which haul butt but my supercharged Ram isn't down on power like they are after one hit.

Tach_tech · Mar 17, 2020

Wild one said:
He also had a rod fall through the side of the block shortly afterwards,lol

It didn’t really fall, it exited at full speed lol. Also that was a tune issue. If it hadn’t been for the bad tune it would still have all the inside bits where they’re supposed to be.

Wild one · Mar 17, 2020

Tach_tech said:
It didn’t really fall, it exited at full speed lol. Also that was a tune issue. If it hadn’t been for the bad tune it would still have all the inside bits where they’re supposed to be.

I just thought you wanted an easier way to change oil,lol

What's the best supercharger for 5.7L

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