anyone ever deal with this would like some input

hemsley · Jun 28, 2014

hey everyone so i go out to my truck and try to start it and all I got is a click....so I figured I left something on tried to jump it to no avail it looked like my terminals were corroded so I cleaned them and low and behold it started rite up...about 2 days later I drove it to work with out any issues until I went to lunch....as I went down the road my radio was going on and off then my dash was flickering and then my truck died....I pushed it off to the side and was looking for a burnt wire or something found nothing my door chime was making funny noises my flashers were tweeking out along with my dash and radio....so I pulled the positive cable and looked under my dash found nothing then I rehooked my positive and low and behold everything was fine....started rite up so I drove it home and that's where its sitting....battery and alternator test good bout to give up and trade her in

MegaMouseGW · Jun 28, 2014

Sounds like bad battery cables. Go to a welding supply warehouse and purchase 15 feet of welding cable (if you can get multiple colors then buy 5 feet of red and 10 of black). Now the fun part, you will need to install connectors on the welding cable to connect to the battery and the other points that the positive and negative connect to. The negative will be the easy one, as it will only need a ring terminal installed on it. The battery end might be a bot of a problem though. I do not recommend using the clamp terminal connectors but getting some marine terminal connectors and another ring terminal. That should cure the problem.

hemsley · Jun 28, 2014

hey thanks for the fast reply....I cleaned some more connections and removed both pos and neg cables from the battery and now all I get is a buzzing sound from my relays......

Redtruck-VA · Jun 28, 2014

Check and clean the negative cable where connects to the chassis.

hemsley · Jun 28, 2014

I think im just gonna replace the cables and connectors tomorrow cause just my luck the cables r 2 short to replace just the connectors lol. btw megamouse funny you mentioned weld cable cause I work in a weld shop and I don't think the maintenance man will give me a hard time about some cable lol I hope we have the rite size I guess I will find out

preachp · Jun 29, 2014

Hi Hemsley,

If that doesn't work try jogging the starter a little bit and see if that clears it up. I had a 72 Econoline Supervan that did something similar and it turned out ot be a high temp short in the starter. Also you may want to check the alternator by moving it also if the starter or the cables don't get it done.

Good luck,
preachp

MegaMouseGW · Jun 29, 2014

hemsley said:
I think im just gonna replace the cables and connectors tomorrow cause just my luck the cables r 2 short to replace just the connectors lol. btw megamouse funny you mentioned weld cable cause I work in a weld shop and I don't think the maintenance man will give me a hard time about some cable lol I hope we have the rite size I guess I will find out

Make sure that you get the largest cable you can. Those welding cables can handle damn near any amount of amperage you can throw at them and are almost indestructible. I replaced my cables some time back, more because I have a decent stereo system in my truck than any problem I was having.

hemsley · Jul 1, 2014

hey guys just an update I replaced the cables and ends....but it did it again so I did a parasitic draw test and its pulling as much as the battery is testing....I disconnected the starter and the alt. volts didn't drop.....this is really starting to get to me lol I miss my truck

hemsley · Jul 1, 2014

gonna try and load a short video a little later so I can show you guys what its doing....

RonJon '06 · Jul 1, 2014

Is the engine not running at all or is it running off and on? Does it idle smoothly? I have also heard of a bad starter causing electrical and idling problems....bizarre stuff.

Redtruck-VA · Jul 2, 2014

I would check the body/engine grounds. We have seen batteries that tested good, still be a problem. Or at least the electrical problem went away after being changed.

MegaMouseGW · Jul 3, 2014

If there is a current/voltage draw with the key off then you have something wrong. Here is where to start: If you have a killer stereo system in your truck start there. Take out the fuses for it and test for voltage draw. If no killer stereo then go on to the next part. Pull each fuse out of the fuse box one at a time testing the draw on the battery until it goes down to normal or zero. There will be a slight draw for the computer but not enough to kill a battery. Now when you find the fuse that is on the circuit that is pulling the voltage then it will be time for a bit of troubleshooting. Find which circuit you disconnected is the one that is pulling the current. It should be on the lid of the fuse box.
You will need to use a volt meter to check for continuity on the effected circuit. At this time seeing as we do not know which circuit it is I cannot guide you further. Let us know what you find after pulling fuses.

anyone ever deal with this would like some input

hemsley

Junior Member

MegaMouseGW

Senior Member

hemsley

Junior Member

Redtruck-VA

Senior Member

hemsley

Junior Member

preachp

Senior Member

MegaMouseGW

Senior Member

hemsley

Junior Member

hemsley

Junior Member

RonJon '06

Senior Member

Redtruck-VA

Senior Member

MegaMouseGW

Senior Member

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