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dropping the truck off a dealer.


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So in the morning I have to drop off my truck at the dealer to find out why I have ...


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Old 03-19-2012, 06:56 PM   #1 (permalink)
 
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Default dropping the truck off a dealer.
So in the morning I have to drop off my truck at the dealer to find out why I have this horribly loud squeak ( like a tire that rubs in one spot) and the faster I go the faster it squeaks. It louder in reverse then drive but still audible. It sounds like its directly under the truck but to the rear like in the gears or the drive shaft. Any thoughts?


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Old 03-19-2012, 07:23 PM   #2 (permalink)
 
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Grenading rear differential! I don't know.


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Old 03-19-2012, 07:38 PM   #3 (permalink)
 
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Yikes....I hope not.


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Old 03-20-2012, 07:28 AM   #4 (permalink)
 
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So a squeek and not a grind?


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Old 03-20-2012, 05:49 PM   #5 (permalink)
 
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Well I got the truck back today and it turns out that my U-joint is shot. So the dealer is telling me that while the shaft is down I might as well replace both. He quoted me $427 including diags. When I went to pick up the truck after talking with him for a while he agreed to call locally for some aftermarket Moog parts so that I can have the zerk fittings and he said he would find out what his cost was on the parts he would either sell them to me for that amount or just have me go and get them locally to save me some money. I'm going to be having him do my tie rods at some point later and I'll see if he will do the same deal. He's going to check around to see if Moog would be cheaper or if there is any other brand with zerks that will save me some money. I thought that was pretty decent of the guy.


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Old 03-22-2012, 07:31 AM   #6 (permalink)
 
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so when it rains it pours, yesterday while driving on the hottest day of the year my blower stopped working. I got no air coming out of any of my vents. When I turn the fan up I hear allot of noise down in the lower right passenger side that sounds like the motor because it speeds up or slows down with the knob like it should but I get no air. I"m thinking this is going to be expensive to fix. The dealer quoted me over 7 hours labor when I thought I had no heater core. I guess I could tear my dash apart to save the labor.


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Old 03-22-2012, 09:55 AM   #7 (permalink)
 
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You can do u-joints in the driveway with a big C-Clamp. (far easier with a good vise).
$400 for u joints is redic!

The blower sounds like it might be a diverter door issue, not the blower motor.


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Old 03-22-2012, 12:08 PM   #8 (permalink)
 
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I questioned him on the price and got it down to $250. The price he quoted me was with an hour of diagnostics which I got him to waive. I'm okay with the price. I don't have time to deal with this in my driveway right now. I'm good with shock replacement and things like that but I don't want to drop the shaft, not comfortable with that. I'm getting greasable joints.

I emagine that if it is the door and not the blower I would still need to pull the dash apart?


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Old 03-22-2012, 12:25 PM   #9 (permalink)
 
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Originally Posted by 02blkram47 View Post
I imagine that if it is the door and not the blower I would still need to pull the dash apart?
I unfortunately do not have the answer to that. Never replaced one. It might be do-able by removing the glove box etc.

"Blend Door" I believe is the technical name, btw.


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Old 03-22-2012, 03:59 PM   #10 (permalink)
 
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Jesus! 400 then even 250 for a u joint? I got a lifetime replacement with a grease fitting for $17. Just saying for the hour it takes to replace and $17 retail cost for the part, I'd be double checking. Good luck tho man, hope yo get everything fixed up!


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