Heater core replacement?

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EWC88

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Anyone on here do one? Scale 1/10 difficulty? I need mine done, been putting it off for too long and want to do it before I get a leak inside my truck. I will be at the samething replacing the top pieces of dash and doing the recirc door I believe its called? Anything else you guys recommend to replace?
 

HemiLonestar

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A/C evaporator is good insurance. That pretty much covers everything in there.
 
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EWC88

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Do you need to get anything done to it after replacing heater core? I seen some people say needs to be recharge and then others saying no.
 

HemiLonestar

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If you replace the evaporator you need to suck down the A/C charge first. A full A/C system does not count as a de minimus release lol.
 

WhiteExpress

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You can change the heater core without changing the AC Evap Core.
But as mentioned above (and it sounds like you're looking to do this once) it's a good idea to replace it, as well as get a fix for that stupid blend door.

I've never done a Gen III so I can't talk to the difficulty of it, but like most all these jobs, it's more daunting than difficult. It's all just nuts n screws. (not many bolts in these trucks these days!)
 

BigSloth

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Very wise to replace the evaporator while you are in there. The cost of the part relative to the labor involved is enough to justify it, evaps can be found for anywhere from $65-190 depending on brand and source.

I'll go ahead and give you a little walkthrough that gets you through it. bear with me if I forget some things, it's been a while since I worked for dodge lol.

Evacuate the AC system, clamp off and remove heater hoses going to the core. remove the 10mm bolt holding the AC lines to the expansion valve on the firewall. Disconnect the battery

Now inside, remove both sides door weatherstripping on the front half, remove the side finisher panels off both sides, remove both A pillar finishers, there are bolts in the oh **** handles then the rest is held by snap clips. remove the screws holding the dash down. pop off the defroster vent on the dash at the windshield. remove all the screws under that vent panel. remove both of the kick panels, and the inner kick panels on either side of the cupholder. remove any screws that look to hold it down. remove the panel underneath the steering column by your knees. remove the metal plate immediately behind it.

Remove the rubber piece on the steering column tilt lever and remove the screws from the steering column finisher. un snap the top and bottom hallves and remove the column finisher. remove all wiring for column, and the linkage for the shifter. remove the bolt from the steering intermediate shaft and slide it off the column. use a bungie cord to keep the steering wheel from rotating. There are 3 or 4 bolts that go vertically into the large metal bracket under the column, remove them and the column comes out, set it aside.

In the door jambs on both sides, looking at where the dash meets the door, there are 2or 3 larger bolts through a piece of metal that goes into the dash. remove those bolts. On the drivers side(cant remember the pass or not) there is also a tab with a metal dowel that sticks into the door frame. bend this tab out til the dowel is out. Now its just a matter of having buddy help you lift both sides at once, and pull out towards the seats. the whole thing comes off as a module. then its time to play find the connectors, remove all the wiring connectors that are restricting movement, and lay the dash on the seats.

You now have the air handling box in sight. the bolts that hold it to the truck are actually studs that poke through the firewall, with nuts that are removed from outside. remove the 4 or 5 of them, and pull the box out. remove all 6 million 8mm screws from the case and split it, change cores, reverse process.

That's going solely off memory of the last one I did, which was an 05 durango. But I remember the durango being mostly the same as the trucks, with some minor differences I omitted like the center console(non existent on trucks) and the solar sensor for auto headlights. Either way that should getcha going in the right direction. Total time for me in a shop with all my stuff and shop air, its about a 6 hour process. In a driveway/garage with a first timer this is maybe a 10hr experience with a friend. Hope this helps.
 
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EWC88

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Bringing this thread back to life. Found someone who will do the job for me for $450 so I'm probably gonna have him do it. I just need to buy parts and he will replace. He used to work at a dodge dealership and he recommended me buying OEM because he has seen people buy cheaper and parts broke fast. I called the dealer and got these quotes:
Heater core:$112, evaporator $357, blend door $103. Now on rockauto I can get them for these prices: heater core $39.89-$80.79, evaporator $55.79-$63.79, and blend door was $16.46-$63.79.

Big price difference. Do you think quality is a huge difference?
 

HemiLonestar

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Yes. Been my experience for the most part that aftermarket parts on these trucks tend to be inferior quality to oem.
 
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EWC88

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Ok I will buy OEM. Will be doing that by end of this week.

Question, I found some of the parts offline through eBay of brand new OEM in original boxes that are new for cheaper price then dealership wanted. The one place is an actually mopar dealership from SC other haven't look at yet. But with the blend door his posting says for 2002-2010, I wanted to make sure if that is correct? Mine is a 02 and I don't want to buy one that's wrong. I figured they would of changed it by 2010 model?
 

emjohn4

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Its about a 7/10.

Buy OEM parts.
 

rmbanas

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I have had 5 heater cores replaced in the last 11 months, both after market and OEM. They all fail in the same location, at the inlet bend in the tubing.
I have found that Ford and some GMC have this problem due to electrolysis or high flow through the core. They have numerous fixes ie; additional grounding and flow restrictors but I have seen nothing available for Dodge.
My mechanic has gone through and has done some additional grounding and reduced the voltage through the coolant from .45 volts and has it down to .25.
I am trying to find a flow restrictor to put in the heater core supply line.
If you run into this problem with repeated failures it may not be due to a faulty core.
 
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EWC88

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Yea I'm having coolant missing so going bring to my mechanic to have him pressure test to see what's up. If it's heater core again I will mention the voltage you said and how to add restrictions. I find it bizarre Dodge or some company hasn't come out to fix this issue, it's a expensive ass repair that I refuse to keep paying, I'll say buy to dodge instead of keep repairing same issues.
 

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