Water swooshing noise from dash

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Ian_Olivas

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So I already know that there is a **** ton of water on my passenger floor boards from the drain pipe having water flow black into it. I am already planning on using silicon around the tube to keep it from running along back in and then attached an elbow to it so it drips down instead the Nub of a pipe that's straight out. But I hear this water swooshing noise from behind the dash. Please tell me this is from that drain pipe I'm going to fix and not a cracked in the firewall that's leaking somewhere else too
 

triple111

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Is it coming from the passenger side sort of behind the radio/glovebox area? That is a leaking heater core, coolant has pooled in the blend door compartment and is sloshing around. I had the same exact problem.
 
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Ian_Olivas

Ian_Olivas

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Is it coming from the passenger side sort of behind the radio/glovebox area? That is a leaking heater core, coolant has pooled in the blend door compartment and is sloshing around. I had the same exact problem.

That's exactly where I hear the "water" noise. How can I fix this problem?
 

triple111

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Buy a new heater core, remove the dash, then open up the HVAC box and use paper towels or similar to soak up the antifreeze and then install the new heater core.

http://www.ramforum.com/f76/how_remove_dash_access_hvac_box-19058/

Removing the dash the first time is annoying, but not all that hard. Opening the HVAC box is a pain in the ass though.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XCbGJ-bIkmg
I used the video above to open the box without evacuating the AC system. The bolts are super annoying and very hard to access. You'll understand why a heater core is like a $900 job at the dealership. But I would recommend doing it yourself because you learn a lot.

So in general summary:
1. Pull off dash trim pieces
2. Drop steering wheel
3. Disconnect electrical connectors
4. Remove dashboard
5. Disconnect and remove ECU (3 bolts are behind it, thanks dodge engineers)
6. Unscrew 6 or so bolts in the firewall to gain acces/wiggle room to HVAC bolts on the back
7. Open up HVAC box
8. Clean box and replace heater core
9. Put everything back together.

If your HVAC doors don't work i'd recommend replacing them as well since youll have access. You'll probably have to break or saw off several of the screws holding the HVAC box together behind it, as I have no idea how you could ever get access to them. Good luck, its a pain in the ass job but worth doing. Give yourself 2 days to do the job to be safe.
 
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Ian_Olivas

Ian_Olivas

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Buy a new heater core, remove the dash, then open up the HVAC box and use paper towels or similar to soak up the antifreeze and then install the new heater core.

http://www.ramforum.com/f76/how_remove_dash_access_hvac_box-19058/

Removing the dash the first time is annoying, but not all that hard. Opening the HVAC box is a pain in the ass though.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XCbGJ-bIkmg
I used the video above to open the box without evacuating the AC system. The bolts are super annoying and very hard to access. You'll understand why a heater core is like a $900 job at the dealership. But I would recommend doing it yourself because you learn a lot.

So in general summary:
1. Pull off dash trim pieces
2. Drop steering wheel
3. Disconnect electrical connectors
4. Remove dashboard
5. Disconnect and remove ECU (3 bolts are behind it, thanks dodge engineers)
6. Unscrew 6 or so bolts in the firewall to gain acces/wiggle room to HVAC bolts on the back
7. Open up HVAC box
8. Clean box and replace heater core
9. Put everything back together.

If your HVAC doors don't work i'd recommend replacing them as well since youll have access. You'll probably have to break or saw off several of the screws holding the HVAC box together behind it, as I have no idea how you could ever get access to them. Good luck, its a pain in the ass job but worth doing. Give yourself 2 days to do the job to be safe.
Well ********. That's alot of stuff. What happens if I don't get this fixed like what's the bad that happens im sure there's bad and thanks for all the info and also the ECU is the silver thing under the hood on the passenger side right behind the intake filter right? Just want to clarify I'm thinking of the same thing here
 

Core-Lokt

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Wait also is the heater core inside the HVAC box?

Yes, the heater core is in the box, right next to the A/C evaporator. And you're correct about the silver module. I would highly recommend replacing all the doors while you're in there. The man at HeaterTreater (aftermarket metal HVAC doors; can't remember his name) said the actuators are pretty much bullet-proof. If you have the money, I would also recommend replacing the A/C evaporator.

I recommend a three-day weekend the first time, if you try it. All the videos I watched seemed to be by people that already knew the process and omitted a couple of minor but key items that led me to disassemble the inner dash liner behind the cluster and center stack. I also had hell getting the A/C lines re-connected. The plastic Lisle QD tool was too thick and I had to make one from some EMT tubing.

It isn't fun, but it's not horrible. The main things are to research the process, get all the parts/tools in advance and allow some time.
 
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Ian_Olivas

Ian_Olivas

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Yes, the heater core is in the box, right next to the A/C evaporator. And you're correct about the silver module. I would highly recommend replacing all the doors while you're in there. The man at HeaterTreater (aftermarket metal HVAC doors; can't remember his name) said the actuators are pretty much bullet-proof. If you have the money, I would also recommend replacing the A/C evaporator.

I recommend a three-day weekend the first time, if you try it. All the videos I watched seemed to be by people that already knew the process and omitted a couple of minor but key items that led me to disassemble the inner dash liner behind the cluster and center stack. I also had hell getting the A/C lines re-connected. The plastic Lisle QD tool was too thick and I had to make one from some EMT tubing.

It isn't fun, but it's not horrible. The main things are to research the process, get all the parts/tools in advance and allow some time.

Why do you recommend the ac evaporator? AND it sounds like a good idea anyway since the truck is 15 years old. And last night I watche'd several videos doesn't seem too bad to remove the dash and on one of the videos I saw someone drop the steering wheel with out actually removing the whole thing so that will be a time saver. Thanks for all the help guys I really appreciate all of it
 
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Ian_Olivas

Ian_Olivas

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Also I visited the heater treater website and saw 4 doors. Is there 4 doors I need to purchase?
 

Core-Lokt

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Re: replacing evaporator: Age, like you said-but do everything while you're in there, for peace of mind. At least clean it, as it's probably got some gummy crap from dust and water.

The HT doors are maybe overkill, but again it'd suck to do all this and have a door break. Mode 1 door was why I did all this. I did four doors, but there is one more, anyway. It states on the HT website that last door rarely breaks, but you can order one.

That one thing that tripped me up? It was two of the bolts holding the steering column mount to the crossbar. They were hidden in the reinforcing web and all I had was my iPhone for a work light. One thing I'd have done had I known about it? There is a bundle of wires by the ducts and one spot is a splice-that's where the ash tray/console light wires go to on fancier trucks. I would've soldered in a pigtail.

If you do it, pay attention for any vacant sockets. With a Ram Body Builder diagram for your year model to figure what's what, you can maybe add some factory options using them.
 
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