2003 dodge ram lowering rear end

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OLEred03

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I am looking to lower just the rear end of my 2003 regular cab short bed. I am looking to just level the truck out with out doing anything with the front. What is the best way to achieve this? I took measurements between the front tire and fender and the back tire and the bedside. The front was 4" and the back was 8". I don't want any rear end sag just a level look. Thanks in advance for the help.

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Redtruck-VA

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I came very close to a leveling mine using 2" drop shackles and removing the O/L spring.

Note a long time ago and it was the first step in my lowering adventure....
 
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OLEred03

OLEred03

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Thats what I was thinking but wanted some expert advice. I was also thinking about possibly flipping the rear end and putting it above the springs, any input on that?

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Redtruck-VA

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These are old photos when I first flipped my axle. I spot welded mine to keep the axle from turning under hard acceleration. Some folks do it and others do it after they fix the damaged from it turning.

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Now, been running this configuration for a couple years totally without issue and a great ride.

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OLEred03

OLEred03

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How much drop did the axle flip give you? And what kind of bar is that that runs from the bottom of the leaf springs to the front hanger?

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Redtruck-VA

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A flip is good for 5 or 6 inches depending which hole in the shackle you use. If the OEM shackle is used you are at 7 inches. The 5 or 6 inch drop can be tolerated with using Tembren rubber springs, I choose the 660# one's and they keep the chassis from hitting hard. They look like simple bumps but believe me they are a lot more than that.
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OLEred03

OLEred03

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Oh ok that's more than I was looking for as far as drop amount. Thanks for the help! About how high would it sit if the OL spring is kept on the truck?

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xb1230

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One of the issue some folks have had with removing the O/L spring is the regular ones over-bending.

If you don't load the back with heavy stuff or have to haul heavy loads it should cause any issues. However it will not remove a lot of height as they only protect the suspension in case of an OverLoad.

DJM suspension sells a bolt-on flip kit that is easy to install and allows you to modulate the amount of drop you put on the back. The kit sells for under 300$. You can weld it if you like but it has provisions for the factory guide pin to be used and not allow the axle to rotate under load.

Another option for you.
 
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OLEred03

OLEred03

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Thanks for all the help. I do on a rare occasion pull a trailer or haul semi heavy loads in the bed.

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Redtruck-VA

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Thanks for all the help. I do on a rare occasion pull a trailer or haul semi heavy loads in the bed.

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The O/L is only worth the thickness of the spring and if I remember right, that's about 5/8". The problem with the stock springs un aided is that they are flexible and can cause wheel hop under acceleration. The fix is a traction bar. CalTrax is one of the better ones IMO. Axle hop has the real potential of damaging U joints and drive line with the loading and unloading of the axle. As stated above, you can flip the axle, retain the O/L and adjust the height to whatever you want without losing a lot of your towing capacity. I have a 5000# hitch behind the roll pan on mine and tow a 6x12 motorcycle trailer. Good luck..
 

Redtruck-VA

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Speaking of traction bars I saw a neat setup on a truck that looked like they used only the front part of a O/L spring cutting off the rear portion. They had a bump stop mounted on the spring contacting the regular leaf spring pack. Clean and simple, looked stock.
 
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OLEred03

OLEred03

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Thanks for all the help. I do believe that I will more than likely just go with a set of drop shackles and probably put a set of traction bars on it because this is a street tuck with a big dream.

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Redtruck-VA

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Thanks for all the help. I do believe that I will more than likely just go with a set of drop shackles and probably put a set of traction bars on it because this is a street tuck with a big dream.

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Haha aren't we all....
 
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