Biggest drop and biggest wheel/tire combo while still useful and without frame mods?

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Drunken Hamster

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Basically, my truck is too damn high! And my tires aren't wide enough, my rims aren't tall enough to look good, and my sidewall... Well, I actually don't mind a little extra sidewall on a truck.

My question is as stated in the title, and my assumption is a 1/3 {which doesn't exist} or a 2/4 drop with either 305/50R 20x9.5, or 305/45R 22x10.

IMO, I'd prefer the latter wheel/tire setup, especially with brushed face, flat/wrinkle black sides SRT's. Question is, what offset, and will it bump, rub, or grind? Should I roll, pull, cut the fenders?

Can I go any lower with those wheel/tire sizes? Will I still be able to tow? Is there any way to get that mythical 1/3 drop with perfect ride quality, geometry, and a little more performance?
 
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Drunken Hamster

Drunken Hamster

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"Bump" Can anyone give me some input? I've also considered running 305/40R23. And since I've done more thinking, I'm leaning more between the /45r22's and the /40r23's than the /50r20's....

If only they made 21's... then it'd be /50r21 as my other third choice, and maybe a /55r20 for a 'winter' tire if I lived somewhere cold/snowy....

But seriously, any input, guys?????
 
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Drunken Hamster

Drunken Hamster

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Second "bump", can anyone please give me some input?

Making another thread for another question, too......
 

xtremewlr

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I've been running 305/50/20 with a 2/4 drop for several years now. No rubbing problems unless I'm cornering really hard or loaded up and hit some good undulations in the road. I've had the stock petal wheels and now aftermarket with almost the same offset/backspace.

20150919_173141-X2.jpg

20170119_102320-X2.jpg
 
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Drunken Hamster

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Nice, thank you. Are the new wheels 9.5" wide as recommended by Nitto for a 305/50r20, or are they still 9" wide? Or perhaps 10"?

Also, how is ingress and egress into the drivers' seat? I'm a ~6'1 dude with a ~33"-34" inseam and I'm beginning to miss my step bars a little at stock height, especially with broken tilt steering set at only a couple of clicks off the lowest and this dumb electro seat that I have the front tilted all the way up on because I can't decide on any other setting.

{{gonna replace it with a non-powered drivers' seat soon, as the cushion is also worn out on the door side corner. Seriously, I officially hate powered seats. The only thing that should be powered is a STRAIGHT up and down movement. Aside from that, sliding forward/backward, headrest up/down and tilting the backrest should be the ONLY other adjustments, and THOSE should be manual.}}
 

xtremewlr

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I honestly don't recall what width the wheels are. I think either 9.5" or 10". The tires are Toyo Proxes STII and are the 3rd set of those on my truck. I like them that much. Got the whole package at Discount Tires, they said the rims are very close to the stock petal leafs. I like the tires protruding from the rim a little as they protect the rims from curb rash.

Getting in and out for me is fine, I'm 5'9" around a 30/31" inseam. Just have to lift a cheek a little to plant it on the seat and get in.

The rear sits a little higher on mine with the 2/4 drop because I have an add-a-leaf installed. I use the truck for hauling motorcycles to the track, along with all my gear and **** so wanted to make sure it maintained a level ride when loaded up.

Here it is fully loaded for the weekend at the track.

20170901_170311-X2.jpg
 
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Drunken Hamster

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That loaded pic is about what I'm going for with mine, but unloaded. And I think the stock petals are 20x9's. IMO, I think I want 20x10, anyway. Slightly better look and slightly harder sidewall for better cornering with a flush tire-to-rim rather than poked or stretched.

I might go 305/45r22, though. Still debating. I think that with THIS truck, I'm gonna stick to a ~2/4 drop and 32-33" tires, but when I get my 4th gen cc, I'll go do all the crazy shizz to it. Namely, put on the baby bed and shorten the frame for a tighter wheelbase for better handling.

After that, then my 3rd gen will become the full on race truck. Which shall include an SRT conversion, SCRB conversion, 32"+ drag slicks, and around 2k at the crank. Or just double whatever my fully dressed, full interior, sport-daily truck {the shortened 4th gen} ends up making, which I'm aiming for no less than a 10 pounds per crank HP for that.

Aiming for ~7's-9's in the 1/4 on the race truck, and ~11's-12's on the daily.

Now I just have to go back to school and get a f**king DAMN GOOD paid-occupation. {{I refuse to use the words 'job' or 'career' due to the 'low class' sound and assumption of the first, and the diminished modern meaning/value of the latter.}}
 
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Drunken Hamster

Drunken Hamster

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2000 horsepower at the crank?? Haha you’re crazy bro...
1900 had already been done. So has 7's in the quarter. Look up 7 second ram on youtube. It's the 1320 video clip. About 5-7 mins long.

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chrisp2493

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I know it’s been done, but there’s a reason only by a few people, it’s probably gonna cost over 40k to build something like that lol
 
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Drunken Hamster

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I know it’s been done, but there’s a reason only by a few people, it’s probably gonna cost over 40k to build something like that lol
Hence why I stated that I need a damn good job. Lol. Your thoughts on the baby bed QC 4th gen? Think someone could photoshop that up for me?

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chrisp2493

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Hence why I stated that I need a damn good job. Lol. Your thoughts on the baby bed QC 4th gen? Think someone could photoshop that up for me?

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My thoughts? I think they are just fine the way they are. A truck has a bed for a reason, that short of a bed is kinda pointless. You’ll probably end up with something that looks like an Avalanche lol
 
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Drunken Hamster

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My thoughts? I think they are just fine the way they are. A truck has a bed for a reason, that short of a bed is kinda pointless. You’ll probably end up with something that looks like an Avalanche lol
It's a lot cheaper and easier than trying to shorten my cab, lol.

This is two reasons why I don't like auto companies.

They stop offering the stuff that makes sense, and start making arbitrary ******** things like 5'7 and 6'3 beds.

Or 5'6 and 6'6 for Toyota and Ford. Or 5'10 and 6'4 for GM.

Imo, 6', 7', and 8'. Offer them on every cab size, every trim, every model(1500, 2500, 3500, etc.).

And 4 cab sizes.
Single = full length front doors plus 1/4 door of space behind seat.

Double = full length front doors plus 1/2 length suicide, dependant rear doors.

Triple = full length front doors plus 3/4 length independent rear doors.

Quad = four full size doors.

Mega = four full size doors plus 1/4 door of space behind the rear seats.

Oh, and I measured. Front doors on my 3rd gen are ~44" and the rears are ~3/4 that at ~33"

I would run the shortbed on a double cab for my daily, shortbed single for the race truck. And, yes, the double would seat 4 with the rear two passengers turned sideways back to back. (5 if you did three across in the front)

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chrisp2493

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Hey anything is possible. If you set a goal, work towards it slowly. Start off with small upgrades and over time you’ll be surprised how your truck comes along. A year ago I wouldn’t have guessed how far my own truck would go. Just build with a plan so you don’t spend money rebuilding stuff down the road
 

N1ck

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20x10" 305/50/12 tires (summer) 33x12.50x20 AT (winter) 2" rear drop.

Planning on 20x12 -44 with 305/50/20 and H&R front drop springs next spring.
 

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N1ck

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One upload per reply is a bummer!
 

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