Dropping the beast

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amishcrackdealer

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I registered here awhile ago - bought my '08 Ram 1500 standard cab just to use as a truck and haul things, but life has been good and now I am able to get radical with this truck.

I have already painted the truck flat black, tinted the windows, etc. I just bought the McG 2/4.5 lowering kit and my buddies are coming over Saturday to help me install it. I will post pics and details afterward.

Here is my truck now...
0012_zps095ebc97.jpg 2013-09-03065859_zpscfef0240.jpg

Will post pics after the install is done this weekend! Can't wait!!!
 

ST-8

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Amish crack must be in good demand right now. But seriously good looking truck.
 
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amishcrackdealer

amishcrackdealer

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LOL. Igolo is going to help me drop this thing this weekend. LOL. Small world buddy.

So here is my starting stats and picture.
Current measurements from the lowest part of the front bumper to the ground = 12". From the lowest part of the rear bumper to the ground = 20". Front wheel well gap (fender to tire) = 4.5". Rear wheel gap (fender to tire) = 6". Currently running stock 20" wheels and tires.
12-30-14_zpsd5837d6b.jpg

I am going to use the Mcgaughty 2/4.5" coil drop kit with new upper control arms and ball joints. I have a custom flowmaster side exit exhaust that I am going to have to modify or remove. After the drop surgery is performed, I will be adding wheels and tires that I am picking up this afternoon. Going to an 18" American Racing rim with 60 series tires for more street use than truck/off roading stock style :) Should add a few inches to the drop as well.

Going to try and see if we can take pictures as we do this so we can share the pain :)
 
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amishcrackdealer

amishcrackdealer

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UPDATE:
So my friends and I got together today and performed the lowering surgery. In the kit, the directions were less than helpful and seemed to be in a bizarre order.
The first line of the directions reads something like "follow the steps in your repair manual to perform the front coil swaps". So I went and got a Haynes manual and started reading up. I also checked this forum a lot and decided to go ahead and order new upper control arms with the ball joint installed - before we started. GREAT MOVE!

So on the front - we removed the wheels, set it on jack stands, unbolted the caliper and set it out of the way (without disconnecting the lines so no need to bleed the brakes afterward). We removed the shock, used a coil compressor and undid the swaybar (but didnt remove it). We broke the old balljoint loose and removed the upper control arm. Then we swapped the coils and reattached the sway bar, new upper control arm, balljoint to the spindle, and shock. Not too bad - took about 2 hours total.

The rear drop was not so great. We jacked up the truck - supported the axle with jack stands as well as the frame near the front of the bed. Loosened up the ubolts on one side then the leaf springs. (make sure the axel isn't jacked up a lot, since you'll need to jack up the truck a lot to relieve stress on the leafs.) Undo the front shackle first - just seemed easier. Then remove the old rear shackle and install the new shackle in its place. (directions didnt do this until after everything else was done - was easier to do it now while things were out of the way). This was also the time we chose to install the bump stops. The leafs were reinstalled in the front after the leafs were removed and repositioned under the rear axle. Then we placed the "bucket piece" on the leafs and reinstalled them to the rear shackles. Then we installed the ubolts with the new leaf plate and tightened it all up.

The new lower shock mounts were odd too. Pictures would've really helped. I was too engrossed in finishing the project to stop for pictures, but I will take pics tomorrow to show the final results and how the pieces are supposed to look.

Gotta say - love the new stance. :)

The kit itself was awesome. The pieces were put together well, everything seems incredibly sturdy. Overall, very pleased with the kit.
 
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amishcrackdealer

amishcrackdealer

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here are some pictures....
BEFORE/AFTER:12-30-14_zpsd5837d6b.jpg SNV34650_zps808031a8.jpg
2013-09-03065859_zpscfef0240.jpg SNV34651_zps49f2369b.jpg

I took some pictures of the install completed - might help with some of my comments from the last post.
Heres the new shackle
SNV34654_zpsfa14b70e.jpg

Here is the funky shock mount extension. Still not sure I have this correct...
SNV34653_zps362935c3.jpg SNV34652_zps04598aab.jpg
sure seems to hang awfully low... might go with a shorter shock in the future and keep the stock mounts.

Heres an overall picture of the passenger side. You can see the bumpstop, shackle, flip kit which relocated the axle ontop of the leaf springs, the axle cradle, etc. I had previously removed the smallest leaf to level up the truck a few months ago - thats what started me on this lowering adventure. haha.
SNV34655_zps79156cfe.jpg

Thanks for watching. Next episode we will tackle the interior and sound system!
 

83RansomHemi

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On the front you mentioned something about new upper control arms and ball joints. Were they stock or an aftermarket setup(better geometry for a lowered truck)? I am wanting to coil drop my front end. In the back I'm installing a reg cab SRT rear diff and springs.
 

usaf2006

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I'm curious, does the axle flip kit require any welding ?

Technically no, but it is HIGHLY recommended to do so, at least from the other posts I've read lol. I would imagine a welding shop wouldn't charge much to weld it up if you installed a flip kit yourself.
 
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amishcrackdealer

amishcrackdealer

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On the front you mentioned something about new upper control arms and ball joints. Were they stock or an aftermarket setup(better geometry for a lowered truck)? I am wanting to coil drop my front end. In the back I'm installing a reg cab SRT rear diff and springs.

I bought the upper control arms thru Summit Racing. They were about $44 each, Moog replacements. Not a kit or part of a kit - but definitely a smart move. The new ones are more tubular designed than the stock ones and the ball joint was already pressed in place. I have a picture:
SNV34657_zps3a7048ae.jpg
The new control arm and new coil are only dark black things in the photo - the things not covered in 50,000 miles of road grit :)
 

Redtruck-VA

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Welding not required until you spin the axle while playing and tear up a U joint and drive shaft. Then I bet the next round after repairs are done will have a couple tack welds thrown in for good measure.

dsc00222web.jpg
 

Igolo

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Gotta stop looking at these pics, gonna be wanting to lower mine next..lol
 

usaf2006

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Are shorter shocks on the front required for a 2/4? Will the stock length bottom out too often?

And to do a 4x4 the mcgaughys drop spindles work right? At least better for geometry than drop coils.
 
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