Go from 35's to 33's? let's see your 33's!

jlpowell84 · Apr 8, 2016

Hey my lifted Ram veterans. Looking for some advice. I have a 2012 SLT TRX4 that has a simple 2" front end lift/leveling kit. It also has 18" Vtec rims and Antarres 35x12.5 Deep Digger Mud Terrain tires.

I have been going nuts on performance mods. K&N 63 intake, ARH long tube headers, MBRP cat back, Diablo Sport Trinity with Hemi fever 91 Octane tune. And I have a Edge racing torque converter on its way. Also went to a 180 stat and pulled the clutch fan and put in a electric fan. She is really starting to feel powerful but the TQ will help get that power out a bit more.

I think I have decided I am not going to lift the truck. If I was this thread would not be happening. With that in mind I think 33's will look very similar and keep the 4x4 look but also it will be one more thing to help get that power to the ground. New gears are out of the question as a 2012 4x4 is super expensive.

So my questioning is how much power will I gain from 35's to 33's? Is it too small a change to make any difference? Or will it helps bring everything together to make her feel like she really is pulling hard? It feels since the clutch fan removal and stat everything is starting to come together nicely and I felt perhaps 33's would help that little bit more. Some feel 35's on a not lifted truck tuck too much anyway...

Any estimates on how drastic it would affect the gearing?

Any thoughts greatly appreciated!

jlpowell84 · Apr 8, 2016

I got an estimation that with 3.55 gears running 35's I get about a 3.35 gear ratio. There is a calculation to see what I would get running 33's yes?

JAMMAN · Apr 8, 2016

The actual gear ratio is not going to change but you know that.
You will notice a difference in torque. The tire is traveling 6 inches less per rev than the 35's.

I went from 31's to 33's and the acceleration curve is noticeably different. I feel like I lost horsepower effectively, but that really didn't change. I'm voting you will notice a big difference.

jlpowell84 · Apr 8, 2016

Okay yea I was told the same by another. I think 33's will still preserve the look of my truck but give me improvement in acceleration. I think it's a win win.

Antarres Deep Digger Mud Terrain's 35x12.5x18 with maybe 3500 miles on them. What should I sell them for?

Ronan · Apr 8, 2016

I just went from **** cepek gun metals w/325/60/20 terra grapplers , to stock 22in forged R/T wheels with 285/45/22 and it made huge difference. Keep in mind also old setup weighed 104lbs per wheel and new setup weighs 72lbs. Still awaiting my 305/45/22 trail blade xt's which will weigh in at about 77 with the wheel. Any way I have all the mods you listed plus a TB and ati under drive pulley. Wheels made a huge difference. Off the line and drivability on the hwy. Cant stop smoking these tires!!!!

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jknappen · Apr 8, 2016

Why change to an electric fan. How will that work kicking on and off. Is it manual or automatic in turning the fan on and off

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justin13703 · Apr 8, 2016

jknappen said:
Why change to an electric fan. How will that work kicking on and off. Is it manual or automatic in turning the fan on and off

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A good e fan conversion is all automatic and tied into the AC.

As far as the tires, you'll see a pretty big performance improvement going from 35s to 33s from both the diameter and weight difference.

jlpowell84 · Apr 8, 2016

jknappen said:
Why change to an electric fan. How will that work kicking on and off. Is it manual or automatic in turning the fan on and off

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Taking the clutch fan off is said to free up like 8 parasitic HP. It weighs a good bit hanging off the water pump pulley and is spun by the pulley using the engine power to do so. The electric fan would come on only when AC is used if I read correctly.

I bought a TYC 622320 for $90 off Amazon. Some are not balanced well and vibrate but I got lucky and mine does not at all. I can set the temps it comes on also in my Trinity. Speaking of can someone tell me how to do this? Sean at Hemi fever told me I can do it, I thought he had to write it into the tune but apparently not.

If you do not have a tuner to make it come on sooner I believe it will not do so until coolant temps hit like 220.

Ronan · Apr 8, 2016

Before you apply your tune you will go to modify parameters. You have a high mph and a low mph setting. I have both of mine set to 195. I wouldn't go any lower because your fan will never shut off. 195 works great for me. A nice complement to the fan delete is the U/D pulley. You may want to look into that. Great mod in my opinion. Very smooth revving at high rpm and much quicker rev up. Also capitalizes on the freed up power from the fan delete.

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JAMMAN · Apr 8, 2016

The electric fan should be tied to a sensor that reads water temp. It should come on when the water reaches a certain temperature regardless of AC on off or otherwise. In most cases when the truck is moving the fan really shouldn't need to kick on. When idling in line at KFC or Micky d's it will probably wake up for a minute or so every 5. Electric fan is a great way to reclaim wasted horsepower as is under drive pulleys.

Padilen · Apr 8, 2016

OP what year is your truck? Two wheel drive?
This is posted in 3rf generation, but you say 2012. And in 2012 the package was called the Outdoorsman

Ronan · Apr 8, 2016

If your truck is tuned, it will only come on when it reaches the temp that it is set to. If you have a 180 stat then your tuner should be informed to adjust your fan temps in the tune . OR you can adjust them as I stated before from modify parameters on your Diablo trinity. And yes while you are on the hwy the fan won't come on , but sit in any traffic and it will certainly come on. That is why you don't want to set the temps too low , because then your fan won't shut off. 195-196 is the recommended temp.

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jlpowell84 · Apr 9, 2016

Ronan said:
Before you apply your tune you will go to modify parameters. You have a high mph and a low mph setting. I have both of mine set to 195. I wouldn't go any lower because your fan will never shut off. 195 works great for me. A nice complement to the fan delete is the U/D pulley. You may want to look into that. Great mod in my opinion. Very smooth revving at high rpm and much quicker rev up. Also capitalizes on the freed up power from the fan delete.

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Roger that! Thanks, will set that tomm. I ordered the Edge racing TQ 2800. After that is installed I was thinking the ATI UD pulley. It seems like since I did the efan and 180 stat everything is starting to come together nicely. Matt says the TQ is next best to gear swap (way too spendy for my truck) and I should notice it nicely. Add in going to 33's from 35's then the UD pulley and I think she will get up and go nicely.

jlpowell84 · Apr 9, 2016

Padilen said:
OP what year is your truck? Two wheel drive?
This is posted in 3rf generation, but you say 2012. And in 2012 the package was called the Outdoorsman

Well how the hell did that happen lol! Surely meant 4th gen, my bad.

Mine has TRX4 OFF ROAD vinyl stickers on rear of bedside panels and I have 2012. Maybe a sticker by the first owner? I am going to shave them anyway.

Oh and 4wd

jlpowell84 · Apr 9, 2016

Ronan said:
If your truck is tuned, it will only come on when it reaches the temp that it is set to. If you have a 180 stat then your tuner should be informed to adjust your fan temps in the tune . OR you can adjust them as I stated before from modify parameters on your Diablo trinity. And yes while you are on the hwy the fan won't come on , but sit in any traffic and it will certainly come on. That is why you don't want to set the temps too low , because then your fan won't shut off. 195-196 is the recommended temp.

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I told Sean when I sent him logs yesterday. He told me I can do it easy but didn't say how. Now I know

I'll set 196. Thanks again for the help.

Ronan · Apr 9, 2016

I had the same issue with the gear swap, way to much$$$. The stall made a HUGE difference. And then goin down in tire size in my opinion equals out to the gear swap. Truck hauls ass now. I would also recommend a moes tb. That made a big difference for me and that was before the headers, tq ,and tune. They all complement each other.

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AlphaCT · Apr 9, 2016

jlpowell84 said:
Hey my lifted Ram veterans. Looking for some advice. I have a 2012 SLT TRX4 that has a simple 2" front end lift/leveling kit. It also has 18" Vtec rims and Antarres 35x12.5 Deep Digger Mud Terrain tires.

I have been going nuts on performance mods. K&N 63 intake, ARH long tube headers, MBRP cat back, Diablo Sport Trinity with Hemi fever 91 Octane tune. And I have a Edge racing torque converter on its way. Also went to a 180 stat and pulled the clutch fan and put in a electric fan. She is really starting to feel powerful but the TQ will help get that power out a bit more.

I think I have decided I am not going to lift the truck. If I was this thread would not be happening. With that in mind I think 33's will look very similar and keep the 4x4 look but also it will be one more thing to help get that power to the ground. New gears are out of the question as a 2012 4x4 is super expensive.

So my questioning is how much power will I gain from 35's to 33's? Is it too small a change to make any difference? Or will it helps bring everything together to make her feel like she really is pulling hard? It feels since the clutch fan removal and stat everything is starting to come together nicely and I felt perhaps 33's would help that little bit more. Some feel 35's on a not lifted truck tuck too much anyway...

Any estimates on how drastic it would affect the gearing?

Any thoughts greatly appreciated!

Trying to decide myself on 33s or 35s. I like those wheels. Do you have a pic from the side?

NWRQC · Apr 9, 2016

You will notice quite a bit of a change between 33's and 35's. I was running a 33/12.5/20 and replaced them with a 35/12.5/20 when they wore out. I had them for maybe two months before ordering a set of 305/55/20's (true 33).
My truck felt a little more sluggish off the line with the 35's and the shifts were spaced further apart due to the diameter so the truck drove differently.
If you are looking more towards performance I would stick with 33's for sure.
I liked how my truck looked with the 35's and level, but I am more into performance than looks.

jlpowell84 · Apr 10, 2016

Ronan said:
I had the same issue with the gear swap, way to much$$$. The stall made a HUGE difference. And then goin down in tire size in my opinion equals out to the gear swap. Truck hauls ass now. I would also recommend a moes tb. That made a big difference for me and that was before the headers, tq ,and tune. They all complement each other.

I was just reading debates about stock 80mm TBs producing enough air volume than a 5.7 will ever need vs the tapered funneling more air. I came away thinking I will do the TQ, ATI pulley, 33's all before a TB. This is after all my other mods so I am coming to a quiet period for awhie. Glad to hear that about the TQ and 33s

AlphaCT said:
Trying to decide myself on 33s or 35s. I like those wheels. Do you have a pic from the side?

See thumbnails

NWRQC said:
You will notice quite a bit of a change between 33's and 35's. I was running a 33/12.5/20 and replaced them with a 35/12.5/20 when they wore out. I had them for maybe two months before ordering a set of 305/55/20's (true 33).
My truck felt a little more sluggish off the line with the 35's and the shifts were spaced further apart due to the diameter so the truck drove differently.
If you are looking more towards performance I would stick with 33's for sure.
I liked how my truck looked with the 35's and level, but I am more into performance than looks.

Yea and thing is I can find a close to 33 (32.6-33.2) but still maintain the most of 12.5 I have now. Maybe 12.00 at the smallest. This way I maintain the look but gain performance advantage.

I am working on a list of possible tires including all pertinent numbers if anyone is interested in trying to persuade me one way or the other. goals are to find an aggressive looking all terrain with nice sidewall design but ultimate goal is hookup on dry pavement. All while maintaining the ability to take the truck off road and up in the snow.

Csanders1992 · Apr 10, 2016

NWRQC said:
You will notice quite a bit of a change between 33's and 35's. I was running a 33/12.5/20 and replaced them with a 35/12.5/20 when they wore out. I had them for maybe two months before ordering a set of 305/55/20's (true 33).

My truck felt a little more sluggish off the line with the 35's and the shifts were spaced further apart due to the diameter so the truck drove differently.

If you are looking more towards performance I would stick with 33's for sure.

I liked how my truck looked with the 35's and level, but I am more into performance than looks.

All depends on tire choice. I had a set of 305/55-20 duratracs and they were just as heavy as my 35x12.50x20 cooper st maxx. Weight is almost just as important for performance as diameter is. For best performance find a light 33

Go from 35's to 33's? let's see your 33's!

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