Need more negative camber after level. Maxed out!

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Explit Player

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I got a 2" Daystar Torsion Bar leveling kit about a year ago, along with 35" Toyo Open Country m/t's
And ever since then i have had way too much positive camber on the front end. Like my upper control arms are maxed out and wont budge any further. Well my Open Countrys are starting to show a noticeable amount of wear on the edge of the tread because of how positive I'm running.. How can I fix this??! 5.7 QuadCab 2005 1500
 

usaf2006

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Silly question, but did you get it aligned?
 
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Silly question, but did you get it aligned?


Yeah, I've been to 3 different shops and all say its maxed out. Ive checked myself and it in fact is.. Is it an option to take the upper control arm off and grind more of an adjustment range into the frame mounts? Like maybe a 1/4-1/2in more adjustment?
 

Csanders1992

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You may be able to buy offset cam plates. I know you can for older Chevys. If you can't get it aligned you probably cranked your keys to much


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How much have you cranked the bars?
 
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How much have you cranked the bars?


Whatever RPM cranked them to is what i have it set to. I counted the threads and lowered it, but it looked bad so i set it back to stock.

I am just curious if i can grind some more adjustment room into the upper control arm mounts?
 

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Go with an offset upper ball joint. You can get them in up to +/- 2 degrees.
 

usaf2006

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Sounds sketchy to grind extra alignment space.
 

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I mean would it really be a problem if i grind some out?

Yes, Yes it would. Not only would it weaken the mount holds the entire top half of your suspension, but it wouldn't accomplish a damn thing. Just because the hole is longer won't change the operating range of the eccentric cam. Your cam moves roughly 2 degrees, and the hole is cut accordingly. With a larger hole, your cam STILL ONLY MOVES 2 DEGREES. Thus, grinding the hole out will not fix the issue.

So, several suggestions have been made to remedy the issue. The only question left is do you want solutions to your problem or do you want someone to just tell you what you want to hear?
 
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Yes, Yes it would. Not only would it weaken the mount holds the entire top half of your suspension, but it wouldn't accomplish a damn thing. Just because the hole is longer won't change the operating range of the eccentric cam. Your cam moves roughly 2 degrees, and the hole is cut accordingly. With a larger hole, your cam STILL ONLY MOVES 2 DEGREES. Thus, grinding the hole out will not fix the issue.



So, several suggestions have been made to remedy the issue. The only question left is do you want solutions to your problem or do you want someone to just tell you what you want to hear?


No I actually wanted someone to answer my question of grinding. Thanks. No need to be rude, as I had a simple question and I'm not a suspension/ alignment expert. But yep ya answered it cool.
 
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Okay well how about this, since the top ball joint and control arm are one piece, how would just a replacement ball joint work in my truck (05 5.7 QC) as I thought you cant press in a new joint
 

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The set I saw was for an 06, evidently the first half of the 3rd gen are different. So if your truck were 1 year newer it would be much simpler. As it stands, try an aftermarket camber kit that has New eccentrics that allow for more adjustment.

Like this-http://www.andysautosport.com/products/ingalls__28600.html
 
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Alright, i have do a little research on these, but essentially how do these accomplish more negative camber? Im just trying to get the idea of these. I looked on youtube also and all i saw were mainly riceburners making more rice ha.

But once these are installed, im just curious how they can give me my goal without modification to my existing parts
 

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Essentially, the slot is already longer than what the cams will allow. On the stock eccentrics the bolt is more toward the center of the cam, on these is further to the outside. It claims +/- 2.75 degrees, giving you almost a full degree more than the stock cams. If nearly 3 degrees adjustment won't get you there then you need to lower your torsion bars and accomplish your lift some other way.

That may be a better option all together. Lower your keys, ad a spacer and get your geometry back to a point where it can be more readily adjusted.
 
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Essentially, the slot is already longer than what the cams will allow. On the stock eccentrics the bolt is more toward the center of the cam, on these is further to the outside. It claims +/- 2.75 degrees, giving you almost a full degree more than the stock cams. If nearly 3 degrees adjustment won't get you there then you need to lower your torsion bars and accomplish your lift some other way.

That may be a better option all together. Lower your keys, ad a spacer and get your geometry back to a point where it can be more readily adjusted.


Alright then. Thank you for your help!!
 
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