Wheel bearing replacement q

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R/T_Fire

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I would've thought timken too but I've heard some people say they've had bad luck with them too and they are cheaping out on their parts and junk just like the rest. That's why I asked what brand people thought.

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Interesting, not something I have heard. I use only Timken bearings on everything, have for years on the farm, I will even replace a John Deere bearing with a Timken if they have a replacement, never had an issue, But that is just my experience and doesn't mean they don't have their defects now and then. I just know as an industry standard they have always been held above the rest in terms of quality and there are always those few that have issues and also those that have issues cause their fault and blame the company for their improper work... just my .02 from my experience. I have never had an issue with their product and used hundreds of their bearings, and hope to not have an issue.
 

Ram Lover

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Interesting, not something I have heard. I use only Timken bearings on everything, have for years on the farm, I will even replace a John Deere bearing with a Timken if they have a replacement, never had an issue, But that is just my experience and doesn't mean they don't have their defects now and then. I just know as an industry standard they have always been held above the rest in terms of quality and there are always those few that have issues and also those that have issues cause their fault and blame the company for their improper work... just my .02 from my experience. I have never had an issue with their product and used hundreds of their bearings, and hope to not have an issue.
Awesome, can't remember if it was here or another forum but ya said they went through a couple sets of timken I think before going to another brand, ya kinda gotta wonder with their prices coming down closer to others if it's true though, i would've banked on timken too, for many years they've been a leader in the bearing world but like you said could be the person installing and also their own warped opinion.

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usaf2006

usaf2006

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So I jacked up the front of my truck yesterday, took the wheels off and checked to see if my rotors were warped at all. Put a straight edge on them and rotated them. 0 change across the whole surface on both sides. So I'm pretty sure it's just the bearing(s).

Here's my symptoms. When I brake going anything over 35, I get a pretty harsh (varies) vibration up front that feels like the front tires are moving front to back, if that makes sense. Secondly, while driving the passenger front is squeaking. Turning left makes it worse, and sometimes turning right makes it go away. Braking usually makes it stop squeaking.

Am I right that it's the bearing going? Anything else it could be? Don't want to waste $200 on bearings and that not be the problem lol.
 

HemiLonestar

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Also, make sure you clean out the spot in the spindle where it sits really well. Then run a thin film of anti-seize around the inside of the hole. This will save you headaches later if you ever have to do this again. I did this back in 09-10 when I put new pones in, last year my sticking caliper got so hot it fragged the hub bearing. Went to replace it and literally all I had to do was take the three bolts out and tap on it with a deadblow hammer.
 
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Ram Lover

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So I jacked up the front of my truck yesterday, took the wheels off and checked to see if my rotors were warped at all. Put a straight edge on them and rotated them. 0 change across the whole surface on both sides. So I'm pretty sure it's just the bearing(s).

Here's my symptoms. When I brake going anything over 35, I get a pretty harsh (varies) vibration up front that feels like the front tires are moving front to back, if that makes sense. Secondly, while driving the passenger front is squeaking. Turning left makes it worse, and sometimes turning right makes it go away. Braking usually makes it stop squeaking.

Am I right that it's the bearing going? Anything else it could be? Don't want to waste $200 on bearings and that not be the problem lol.
By your steering symptoms sounds like the bearing, I get that harsh shudder I assumed cause I need rear brakes, but I also need to change that driver side hub so maybe it's that.

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usaf2006

usaf2006

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Thanks man. I figured as much, but it's always to get a few minds on the problem.
 
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usaf2006

usaf2006

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So I still haven't gotten a torque wrench that goes up to 250 ftlbs. Do you think using blue locktite and torquing to 150, plus an additional 1/4 turn would be sufficient on the axle nut? Torque is 185 ftlbs.
 

RonJon '06

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You could mark the nut before you loosen it then see how far you need to back it off to get to 150 ft lbs, maybe it is around 1/4 turn.
 
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usaf2006

usaf2006

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Put the new bearing on. Don't have a shudder anymore when braking, but the squeal is still there while driving. As soon as I brake, the squeal goes away. Any thoughts?
 
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usaf2006

usaf2006

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You could mark the nut before you loosen it then see how far you need to back it off to get to 150 ft lbs, maybe it is around 1/4 turn.

Tightened to 150, cranked about an 1/8th of a turn. Went for a ride, came back and cranked another 1/16th-1/8th of a turn. Blue lock tight on there. Should be good.
 

bulrid8

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Taken from the 2006 1500 FSM

hub1.png


hub2.png
I have never had to remove tierod and balljoint to change a hub on any other vehicle. Is that really needed on the ram??

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Ram Lover

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I have never had to remove tierod and balljoint to change a hub on any other vehicle. Is that really needed on the ram??

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I don't believe so, I think it's just to give more room to separate the hub and cv shaft.

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SilverStreak88

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I have never had to remove tierod and balljoint to change a hub on any other vehicle. Is that really needed on the ram??

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You have to separate the upper control arm from spindle and the tie rod end.
 

bulrid8

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You have to separate the upper control arm from spindle and the tie rod end.
Why? Should be like every other 4wd hub. Take off cv shaft nut, take off hub bolts and pop hub off.

Is the ram different that the spindle has to be separated?

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SilverStreak88

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The axle has to pulled mostly out of the hub to access the top and front hub bolt, I only did my hubs in a parking lot last week so...
 

bulrid8

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Then that makes sense. That is why I am asking. A lot of times the FSM adds steps that are not needed.

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SilverStreak88

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I don't use an FSM so I don't know what steps are in there. I do have hands on experience with it though and if can get those bolts out without pull the axle, nuckel and tiered end I would like to know. I don't see anyway to fit a torque wrench in there without do those things .
 
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usaf2006

usaf2006

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I got a torque wrench that goes to 80ftlbs on there while manually pushing the hub backwards to give me enough room. Then I just cranked it with my hand wrench as far as I could lol, somewhere between an 1/8th to 1/4 turn. Not sure what she's torqued at.

Oh, and I used blue loctite too
 
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Ram Lover

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I got a torque wrench that goes to 80ftlbs on there while manually pushing the hub backwards to give me enough room. Then I just cranked it with my hand wrench as far as I could lol, somewhere between an 1/8th to 1/4 turn. Not sure what she's torqued at.

Oh, and I used blue loctite too
While not 100% it's probably good, all your doing is securing it to the knuckle so it doesn't fall off driving.

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usaf2006

usaf2006

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That's what I figured. And I rarely hit anything over 45mph haha
 
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