Grab handle repair

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Lil_Ram

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So I searched this site and didn't find anything on repairing the grab handle. Everyone just said buy a new one.
Couple months ago my boss got in the truck and he was a big boy pulled mine clean off but I think it was already a little weak. But here's a repair guide for it. Found this online and figured I'd post it up on here.
Needed items
-Brass hose Barbs 1/2x1/2
-gorilla glue
-hose clamps
-saw

70505744b369836c618c88fcedf19d4d.jpg
Remove the hose end off barb making it just a hose fitting 7d18b32e100ca919e2f9aae4f75d9a54.jpg
Clean up the spot in he pillar for the bolts and screw it into the slot ensuring its straight. 8349ffd957eb30ac8350e7ec5f55be70.jpg(mind mine wasn't even on both sides)
You'll wanna place the hose clamps around the fitting inside the slot and tighten it all down
(I do not have correct sized clamps and have to grab them tomorrow)
Put gorilla glue on ensuring everything is in there good and tight and it ain't gonna break loose easily.
20b8afc175f276702a323975eaa971ec.jpg that's the pillar with some brass hose barbs placed in it without the clamps

Get the truck set back up and put your pillar back in with a reinforced bracket. Will post up more pictures tomorrow when it's all back together.


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Lil_Ram

Lil_Ram

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No I put it in the truck and it didn't work I ripped it right out of the truck after I installed it. So new grab handle will have to be ordered.


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aheeejd

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Lol, that Geno's repair kit it $46. For a couple pieces of aluminum, oops I mean 8 pieces. You can get OEM part off amazon for $36. Here's link http://www.amazon.com/Dodge-Pillar-DriverTaupe-Handle-Panel/dp/B007N9K920

And I tell you what, thanks for this thread. I've been driving around without my drivers side grab handle for probably 4 years, I thought they were like $150 bucks, so I was like screw that. For $36, I'm ordering, & I'm a prime member so if that's available for prime shipping it come within 2 days & free shipping.

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Lil_Ram

Lil_Ram

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Yeah I had hoped it would work but I didn't and it was $10 so it wasn't much to do


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Lil_Ram

Lil_Ram

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Ah I busted my passenger side but yeah in am getting one like that later


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HemiLonestar

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Core-Lokt

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I just picked up a new one of those for 39 and change. I'm gonna get a an all around gauge that read AFR, temp. oil pressure etc to put in there.
What gauge is that and what functions does it display? I have one of these SRT A-pillar covers for later and I kinda thought I'd use an AutoMeter Ram 3G gauge for transmission temperature. But now you've got me thinking.
 

HemiLonestar

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What gauge is that and what functions does it display? I have one of these SRT A-pillar covers for later and I kinda thought I'd use an AutoMeter Ram 3G gauge for transmission temperature. But now you've got me thinking.

Figures I can't find the one I was thinking about, but similar to this one.

INFINITY Mini Touch Screen (Price includes 8g Micro SD card) - Infinity Touchscreen - Gauges

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ST-8

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I just have a aem afr gauge in my srt pillar. Same thing got it cause my og one broke.


Aero force make a nice gauge that's disaplays a bunch.
 

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Core-Lokt

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Wow..that's more Edge Data Pro than gauge. I have Torque Pro on my HU, if I ever can find a compatible BT module, so that's more than I need. Probably just go with the plan for the AM gauge since having a manual transmission means there's nothing for the ECU to read.
 

SilverStreak88

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Did you use hose clamps around the fittings? I'm fixing to do this to both of mine since I'm on my 3rd driver that's ripped off. The SRT-10 pillar is a great upgrade; I've run 2 of them so far and the pillar I'm going to fix is an SRT-10 pillar. If you didn't use hose clamps then that's where you went wrong, to do this properly you need the fittings, hose clamps, a socket to tighten the clamps and the fitting and a dremel of some sort with a cutoff wheel to make a clean cut. I'll probably pick up the fittings tomorrow and do it.

You need measure the post height on the unbroken pillar and then after you've cut the barb off the fitting measure the height of the hex and cut that much off of the bolt post.

Now once you've done that test fit it to make sure that the height o fthe bolt post is the same as the original with the bottom of the fitting hex flush with the top of the plastic that was cut and trim if needed.

Now with the fitting still in put the hose clamp on and tighten it down; remove the fitting (when you do this if you have the clamp tight it'll cut thread grooves into the plastic for threading back into). Once it's out do a 1/2 turn more on the clamp, this will ensure a deeper thread cut thus making it stronger and wont rip out.

Thread the fitting back (carefully) trying to catch the thread you originally cut in the plastic and screw in until "snug", now just tighten the clamp a little more if able and you're good to go.
 
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Lil_Ram

Lil_Ram

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Yes I did the hose clamps and made them as tight as i could and I pulled it off with just arm strength not even using it to get into the truck. My steps aren't on the truck and the fiancée is to short for the truck.


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aheeejd

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This blows so bad, got mine in mail today, went to install, & I had put the bolts when it broke back in the little studs, or when it broke the bolts stayed there, ya know, like it had just pulled away. Well, the studs just spin, so I can't get them out, what a poor setup, I'm stumped, gonna try & lightly weld the studs tomorrow to see if that will hold them I guess, I can't think of anything else to do

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Lil_Ram

Lil_Ram

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I have that issue on the drivers side but the handle is fine there I discovered that those little notch things on the bolt were my pain in the a$$


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SilverStreak88

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Did mine today and they're rock solid. I'm pretty sure that "threading" them into the plastic was the key part of the process.
 
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