bbergman
Junior Member
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2014
- Posts
- 5
- Reaction score
- 0
- Location
- San Diego, California
- Ram Year
- 2008 Ram 1500 Megacab
- Engine
- Hemi 5.7
Hello everyone. I've gotten a ton of useful info from the community here, but this is an issue I've never seen discussed before. I purchased by 2008 Dodge Ram 1500 Megacab used, but in great condition. However, the driver's side door locks were misbehaving right from the start.
Slight background: I took my truck back to the selling dealer about two weeks after purchase, and they diagnosed it as a "cluster" issue (presumably they meant an "instrument" cluster), and said they'd need to order an entire cluster and it would take six weeks. They ordered it, and I checked back six weeks later. They said "nope, still not in, wait another few weeks." I waited again, and they said "oh, we forgot to order it! Can you bring it back in again?" and at that point, I told them forget it and went to another dealer. The next dealer had ZERO clue about the problem; he was completely stumped, and wanted to keep it for a week to get some other opinions. I said no, and started calling other dealers, none of which seemed helpful. So here I am.
The problem is with the electronic door locks. It's hard to describe...
BOTH passenger side door locks work perfectly. Whether it is manual, using a door panel button, or using the key fob, they work all the time.
The driver's side door locks work manually (as I would hope!). However, using the door panel buttons, the driver's side doors lock actuators, both front and back, do not work at all.
Now the key fob gets even weirder. Pressing the UNLOCK function causes the driver's side rear door to lock (what??). Pressing the LOCK function doesn't do anything to either driver's side door (it has no effect, just like the door panel button response).
Yes, I know this is screwed up. I can create a chart if you want. If I want to lock my car, I have to manually press both locks down before leaving, and it's starting to get to be a PIA.
No OBD-II codes are thrown when any button or function is actuated. The original dealer said the actuators are fine, and said that they responded properly to direct 12V application in the door itself. There appears to be continuity between the door actuators and the cluster, which is why they assumed the cluster was at fault. Their notes were that the problem must be upstream from the actuator, and the wires from it, to the cluster. The second dealer said that the entire cluster would have to be replaced and reprogrammed.
What I *don't* understand is what part the instrument cluster plays in all this? Is it truly the source of key fob and door panel actuation of locks? Is it the entire cluster, or just something small inside? Could this be the fault of something in the door itself? A lock/unlock wire in the wrong spot? Etc?
I have checked door/boot wiring and no issues. AFAIK, there are no fuses I should check, but I'm willing to do that.
Anyone have a clue on this? Given the really, really poor quality of Dodge service dealers in San Diego, I hesitate to spend another week with my dash torn up, waiting for scratching heads to conclude something. Especially if it requires 6-8 weeks to wait for a new cluster after that. If I can do something myself, I'm happy to try anything.
Thank you guys!
Bruce
Slight background: I took my truck back to the selling dealer about two weeks after purchase, and they diagnosed it as a "cluster" issue (presumably they meant an "instrument" cluster), and said they'd need to order an entire cluster and it would take six weeks. They ordered it, and I checked back six weeks later. They said "nope, still not in, wait another few weeks." I waited again, and they said "oh, we forgot to order it! Can you bring it back in again?" and at that point, I told them forget it and went to another dealer. The next dealer had ZERO clue about the problem; he was completely stumped, and wanted to keep it for a week to get some other opinions. I said no, and started calling other dealers, none of which seemed helpful. So here I am.
The problem is with the electronic door locks. It's hard to describe...
BOTH passenger side door locks work perfectly. Whether it is manual, using a door panel button, or using the key fob, they work all the time.
The driver's side door locks work manually (as I would hope!). However, using the door panel buttons, the driver's side doors lock actuators, both front and back, do not work at all.
Now the key fob gets even weirder. Pressing the UNLOCK function causes the driver's side rear door to lock (what??). Pressing the LOCK function doesn't do anything to either driver's side door (it has no effect, just like the door panel button response).
Yes, I know this is screwed up. I can create a chart if you want. If I want to lock my car, I have to manually press both locks down before leaving, and it's starting to get to be a PIA.
No OBD-II codes are thrown when any button or function is actuated. The original dealer said the actuators are fine, and said that they responded properly to direct 12V application in the door itself. There appears to be continuity between the door actuators and the cluster, which is why they assumed the cluster was at fault. Their notes were that the problem must be upstream from the actuator, and the wires from it, to the cluster. The second dealer said that the entire cluster would have to be replaced and reprogrammed.
What I *don't* understand is what part the instrument cluster plays in all this? Is it truly the source of key fob and door panel actuation of locks? Is it the entire cluster, or just something small inside? Could this be the fault of something in the door itself? A lock/unlock wire in the wrong spot? Etc?
I have checked door/boot wiring and no issues. AFAIK, there are no fuses I should check, but I'm willing to do that.
Anyone have a clue on this? Given the really, really poor quality of Dodge service dealers in San Diego, I hesitate to spend another week with my dash torn up, waiting for scratching heads to conclude something. Especially if it requires 6-8 weeks to wait for a new cluster after that. If I can do something myself, I'm happy to try anything.
Thank you guys!
Bruce