Reversed door lock actuator on driver's side

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bbergman

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2008 Ram 1500 Megacab
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Hello everyone. I've gotten a ton of useful info from the community here, but this is an issue I've never seen discussed before. I purchased by 2008 Dodge Ram 1500 Megacab used, but in great condition. However, the driver's side door locks were misbehaving right from the start.

Slight background: I took my truck back to the selling dealer about two weeks after purchase, and they diagnosed it as a "cluster" issue (presumably they meant an "instrument" cluster), and said they'd need to order an entire cluster and it would take six weeks. They ordered it, and I checked back six weeks later. They said "nope, still not in, wait another few weeks." I waited again, and they said "oh, we forgot to order it! Can you bring it back in again?" and at that point, I told them forget it and went to another dealer. The next dealer had ZERO clue about the problem; he was completely stumped, and wanted to keep it for a week to get some other opinions. I said no, and started calling other dealers, none of which seemed helpful. So here I am. :)

The problem is with the electronic door locks. It's hard to describe...

BOTH passenger side door locks work perfectly. Whether it is manual, using a door panel button, or using the key fob, they work all the time.

The driver's side door locks work manually (as I would hope!). However, using the door panel buttons, the driver's side doors lock actuators, both front and back, do not work at all.

Now the key fob gets even weirder. Pressing the UNLOCK function causes the driver's side rear door to lock (what??). Pressing the LOCK function doesn't do anything to either driver's side door (it has no effect, just like the door panel button response).

Yes, I know this is screwed up. I can create a chart if you want. :) If I want to lock my car, I have to manually press both locks down before leaving, and it's starting to get to be a PIA.

No OBD-II codes are thrown when any button or function is actuated. The original dealer said the actuators are fine, and said that they responded properly to direct 12V application in the door itself. There appears to be continuity between the door actuators and the cluster, which is why they assumed the cluster was at fault. Their notes were that the problem must be upstream from the actuator, and the wires from it, to the cluster. The second dealer said that the entire cluster would have to be replaced and reprogrammed.

What I *don't* understand is what part the instrument cluster plays in all this? Is it truly the source of key fob and door panel actuation of locks? Is it the entire cluster, or just something small inside? Could this be the fault of something in the door itself? A lock/unlock wire in the wrong spot? Etc?

I have checked door/boot wiring and no issues. AFAIK, there are no fuses I should check, but I'm willing to do that.

Anyone have a clue on this? Given the really, really poor quality of Dodge service dealers in San Diego, I hesitate to spend another week with my dash torn up, waiting for scratching heads to conclude something. Especially if it requires 6-8 weeks to wait for a new cluster after that. If I can do something myself, I'm happy to try anything.

Thank you guys!
Bruce
 

MegaMouseGW

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Ok when something electrical decides to act up start looking for gremlins.

Ok now that is said lets start a bit of trouble-shooting. Most times when something electrical stops working it is because of a broken wire or a fuse. Sometimes it can be a relay. As far as your door locking when the unlock is pressed that is weird. DO the other doors act normal when you lock them?? Maybe someone else can help out here cuase it has me a bit stumped.
 
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bbergman

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Thanks for the quick reply, MegaMouse! I will be checking the fuses tonight, and will report back on that, but I don't think it's a fuse. It's too...random in how it is malfunctioning. In my experience, if it's a fuse, it either works or it doesn't.

At lunch, I realized that my text description of the issue is a little confusing, so here's a chart of what's going on:

door-malfunction-chart.png


What's throwing me off (and I suspect, a lot of you too) is the odd nature of how the driver's side doors react. The rear one is the strangest; it only responds to the key fob action, and when it does, locks when you ask it to unlock. At least the front door will unlock via key fob, if nothing else.

If this were a fuse or relay issue, I'd expect things to work or not work. But this is partially working. If it were just wiring, I'd also expect to see complete failure on the side with the disconnected wires, but that's not happening either.

It's just so odd that it seems to be consistently malfunctioning the same way, for over a year now. It never changes, it never works one day and not the next, etc. It's very consistent.
 

MegaMouseGW

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Hmmm. Ok start checking the wires just to be on the safe side. They do break in the boot that goes between the door and the cab. That might be the problem with the driver door.
What I hate to tell you is it may be your tipm going bad, which is not a cheap fix. Lets start with wire shooting then work from there. To check the wires you will need to remove just the inner door panel and then find the connector which connects the door electronics to the main harness. That connector should be just inside the cab near or under the drivers kick panel. Just disconnect the connector and then check the wires one at a time until you find which may be shorted our to ground, or completely broken. As far as the rear door problem, I think that will be either computer related, or TIPM related, and will require a trip to a dealership or a repair shop that can check those out.
 
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bbergman

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I did previously check the wires in the boot (I found other discussions about that, so I checked that first), but I'll check that again tonight just to be sure.

Interesting about the TIPM. I JUST had my vehicle serviced by another dealer last weekend because of an airbag warning light. In THAT service visit, the TIPM module did come out as bad, and was replaced under warranty. That service guy said there's a small chance that replacing the TIPM could fix my door lock issue, but after we got it back from the tech and tried it, there was no difference. Unless there are more than one TIPM modules (you're starting to get out of my area of knowledge), I think we can rule out a bad TIPM at this point.

I think you're onto something though -- the TIPM clue was a very good intuitive call as to what might be the issue.

Keep 'em coming! Good ideas! Thank you all!
 

MegaMouseGW

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Ok seeing as the TIPM has been replaced after checking the wires just to be sure they are not the culprits, the next thing to check is the receiver for the alarm itself. Now that might or might not be a part of the computer. Seeing as that is kinda getting out of my range of expertise I cannot tell you. But this is beginning to sound like a problem in the door lock system itself and hopefully not the main computer control system. Damn I dislike the Can-Bus system.
 
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bbergman

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I double-checked the wires in the door boots (front and back): no issues.

Didn't get to the fuses before the sun went to bed. :)

Dumb-ish question: are ALL of the fuses in the engine compartment box? Do I need to check every one, or just ones that seem related by definition in the manual? I'd rather not disconnect all the circuits if needed, but I will if anyone thinks it's valuable to check them all.

Continued thanks!
 

MegaMouseGW

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Ok most of the fuses can be checked just by looking at them without removing them. You can remove them one at a time and check them real fast and stick them back in with no problems though.
What I did to kill the need to remove the fuses was I replaced all mine with these: Smart Glow Fuses - WiringProducts

They are unlit until the blow out. So with those finding one that is blown is a snap. And seeing as most autoparts stores, WalMart, and Harbor Freight have them in stock they are easy to find. Another thing is they are not that much more expensive than regular fuses.
 
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bbergman

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Okay, I have now checked all fuses, and there are no blown fuses.

It took me a couple of weeks because I was so enamored of the SmartGlow fuses that I had to order a whole pack and switch out all my fuses. :)

Anyhow, no problems with fuses, and wiring still seems fine.

Any other suggestions or ideas?

Thanks everyone!
Bruce
 

MegaMouseGW

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Well lets revisit the control module that works the door locks. That seems to be what may be the culprit here. Although I am unsure if it is part of the main computer or not. Things like this are why I dislike power anything. Just gimme a knob to pull up or turn and I am fine.
 

cfodor

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Is the power window switch considered a control module on these trucks? I know on some gm stuff the switch is a module. If you could try a switch that would throw that out. I hate throwing parts at stuff but if someone had one laying around or could swap one of a truck real fast
 

brantner22

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Hey there I have a 2003 Ram and I began having the same issue. I had my dealer look at it and they also told me it was the instrument cluster. They replaced it under warranty and everything worked just fine. A few months later the check engine light came on and the code was reading faulty cluster and now my door locks/unlocks are acting up again. After four days of wire tracing and taking the truck apart it was determined that they culprit was an aftermarket remote start that the previous owner had put on. I contacted the company to get a schematic and they guy stated "you mean your truck hasn't caught fire or had everything under the dash melt" I felt so reassuring after that lol He told me that they had more complaints filed with their company about the remote start system then any other model they make. So needless to say have disassembled the entire remote start system and pulled it out. I now have an appointment in a couple days to have the cluster replaced..AGAIN. So long story short..it could very well be your cluster. I've had three different Dodge dealers tell me the same thing..if it's not a broken wire, swtich, or actuator then it's the cluster.

Try to do a self check with the cluster and see if you get any C-Codes. To do this check just turn your key on without starting the truck, push down on the trip button. Hold it down then turn the key off. While still holding the trip button down turn the key back on and then release the button once the keys on. Then watch the dash go crazy checking everything. Look at all the lights and make sure every light works. In the mileage display it will read off C-Codes. I'll try to find the list I have of the C-codes and post them. At least it'll give you an idea. Hope this helps.
 
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