03 Dodge Ram Hemi Engine Can Hardly Idle

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03Blackride

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2003 Dodge Ram 1500
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5.7L Hemi
I added the fuel additive in the gas tank. The engine runs better, but still not how it should run. I also did another scan with the engine running near idle. Here are the results:

2003 Dodge Ram 1500 5.7 Hemi

Scanned readings while engine was running near idle.

Now I’m picking up this code - P0172, bank 1 too rich

Map sensor - 1.97 volts
Map vacuum - 16.60 inHg
Map - 96 usec
Oxygen sensor - not ready
Oxygen sensor heater - not available
Egr - not available
Heater catalyst - not available
Cat modeled temp - 831 degrees
TPS # 1 - 0.80 volts
TPS # 2 min volts 4.49
TPS # 2 volts - 4.20 volts
IAT - 113 degrees
IAT - 2.64 volts
APP sensor 1v - 1.02 volts
APP sensor 2v - 0.53 volts
Ambient temp volts - 1.63
Crankshaft state - in sync
Fuel level percent - 34
Fuel level sensor volts - 2.41 volts

Did not get time to do a vacuum test. While I had the engine idling, the exhaust smelt like rotten eggs. I’m wondering if the catalytic converter on the number 1 bank is all clogged up? That would explain things. I think I’ll get my son to help me disconnect the exhaust before the catalytic converter on the driver side to see if it makes a difference! Thank you, Tommy.
 
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03Blackride

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Did you end up pulling the covers to check springs, and push rods if they are seated good?

I just took a vacuum reading. It is not steady and is fluctuating between 10 to 15 psi. It's looking more like something is going on with the valves. I guess it's time to remove the valve covers to take a look at the valve springs. Then a compression test to confirm it. If anyone has the step by step instructions for the heads removal, it will be a big help to me. Please email me at: [email protected]. Thanks to all who supported me, Tommy.
 
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KGBIGCOUNTRY

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Pull the covers and check the springs before ya worry about yanking the heads. If you put a stock 5.7 spring back in you can do those with the heads on pretty easy, if you upgrade to 6.1 springs your gonna need to pull them or get the correct tools to do them while on the truck.
 
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03Blackride

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KGBIGCOUNTRY, Yes, you are right. Check the valve springs first. If it is the valve springs, I can replace the valve springs without pulling the heads by using anyone of these valve spring compressors, correct? Thank you, Tommy.


Hemi57valvespringcompressormadebyCraneCams.gif Hemi57valvespringcompressorhomemade.jpg
 

KGBIGCOUNTRY

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Yep, shoot Weedahoe on here a pm asking if he still has any of the valve spring tools he made that are sopp to work great for that. I did my first set back when there was only the $300 miller tool so I just removed my heads and bench changed because of the 6.1 springs having the lower buckets on them.
 
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03Blackride

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So, if I replace the valve springs, I read that I should order the 6.1 springs for the exhaust valves and the 5.7 springs for the intake valves. I'm sure there is a step by step procedure for these valve spring replacements. Just curious, after the valve springs have been replaced, and I go to re-install the rocker arms, what prevents them or the valves from getting damaged? Thank you, Tommy.
 

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The 6.1 springs can take more abuse and can handle higher lift cams thats way most everyone runs those during a cam swap unless you go with another manufacture. The rocker arms are easy to put back in, the trq measurement escapes me at the moment for them. The intake side is marked with an I, nothing on the exhaust side. You will want to recheck all the pushrods to make sure they didnt come unseated during the change. If your doing the springs with the head on you will need to have an adaptor in the spark plug hole to hold the valve up.
 
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03Blackride

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The 6.1 springs can take more abuse and can handle higher lift cams thats way most everyone runs those during a cam swap unless you go with another manufacture. The rocker arms are easy to put back in, the trq measurement escapes me at the moment for them. The intake side is marked with an I, nothing on the exhaust side. You will want to recheck all the pushrods to make sure they didnt come unseated during the change. If your doing the springs with the head on you will need to have an adaptor in the spark plug hole to hold the valve up.

I was thinking of adapting my compression tester to pressurize the cylinder. I won't be upgrading the cam. However, I think it may be a good idea to purchase the 6.1 exhaust valve springs, since they appear to have a better design. Thank you, Tommy.
 

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Can get them at your local dealer or get them from Duane at 3rd Srike or Matt at Moe's Performance. Some dealers will try over charging those by alot.
 
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03Blackride

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Can get them at your local dealer or get them from Duane at 3rd Srike or Matt at Moe's Performance. Some dealers will try over charging those by alot.

Yes, I'm just now finding that out. The Dealerships always over charge for their parts. Is there a particular year or model for the 6.1 springs that everyone is using? Thank you, Tommy.
 

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Nope they are the same across the board. They did change the spring itself a few years back but all the old ones should be gone and just the newer ones in stock.
 
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03Blackride

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Nope they are the same across the board. They did change the spring itself a few years back but all the old ones should be gone and just the newer ones in stock.

Are you referring to the 6.1 valve springs? Do those cups come the springs and are they absolutely necessary? What purpose do they serve? Thank you, Tommy.
 
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KGBIGCOUNTRY

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The cups come on the springs. I would leave them on there in guessing it helps strengthen the spring.
 
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03Blackride

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Ok, that is what I thought. Getting back to the re-installation of the rocker arm shafts. For example: If I started replacing the exhaust valve springs at the # 1 cylinder, the piston will be at top dead center for that cylinder. At that point I will remove the exhaust rocker arm shaft on the driver side. By the time I'm finished replacing all the exhaust valve springs on that head, the top dead center will end up somewhere else. How does that affect re-installing the rocker arm? Do I have to place the # 1 piston back to top dead center before I re-install that rocker arm? Thanks for your support, Tommy.
 
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03Blackride

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I just completed a compression test. The number 5 cylinder has zero compression. All of the other cylinders have 180 at the 3rd revolution. Tomorrow I will remove the driver side valve cover to inspect the valve springs on the number 5 cylinder. I sure hope it's the springs. What do you think? Thank you, Tommy.
 

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How were the plugs in that cylinder? For the rocker arms you will just undo the whole asm. Once you pop the cover you will see what I'm talking about. When you pull them off just recheck the pushrods being fully seated after you bolt backthe rocker arm shafts.
 
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How were the plugs in that cylinder? For the rocker arms you will just undo the whole asm. Once you pop the cover you will see what I'm talking about. When you pull them off just recheck the pushrods being fully seated after you bolt backthe rocker arm shafts.

Both plugs were completely black. None of the other plugs were like these. Remember these are brand new plugs. I did use the fuel treatment additive to clean out the fuel injectors and carbon build up. Thank you, Tommy.
 
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03Blackride

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Ok, I finally got the valve cover off. As you can see the top of the exhaust valve spring has sprung open and is resting on the edge of the retainer. Not sure what else is going on here, my son was able to spin the valve spring with his fingers. As of right now, I can't see behind the spring so I'm not sure if it is broken in two pieces. I won't know that until the spring has been removed. I sure hope the valve is not bent. The big question is how do I compress the cylinder if the valve does not close. Has anyone used the nylon rope trick on this 5.7 Hemi engine to keep the valve up? I guess I will know more once the rocker arm is removed. Any comments, suggestions or thoughts? Thank you, Tommy.

ber5exhaustvalvespringhassprungopenovertheretainer.jpg
 

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Are you refering to where you feed the rope into the cylinder and move the piston up to hold the valve? If the valve will not close with air it may be tweeked and need to be replaced, if so the heads gonna have to come off, meaning new bolts and head gasket.
 
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03Blackride

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Are you refering to where you feed the rope into the cylinder and move the piston up to hold the valve? If the valve will not close with air it may be tweeked and need to be replaced, if so the heads gonna have to come off, meaning new bolts and head gasket.

Yes, I saw someone on YouTube use the nylon rope to hold up the valve. Not on a Hemi engine, it was being done on a smaller engine. It worked. Just wondering if anyone used the rope on a Hemi engine. Thank you, Tommy.
 
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