06 ram dead

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RLoreng

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I don't think I've messed with anything else. All of the fuses are intact, and this hack job is run off of 1 wire in the harness


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It's also very possible to remove it all. I just have to clip the other wire and run another piece of wire between the two green/yellow wire ends


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lharrell79

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The orange wire on the relay looks to be a signal wire. It also looks like it goes to a spade connection that is unplugged. Where does that spade go? Also, I'm going to agree with sbarron. If you can figure out a way to get that entire mess out, then go for it. There is so much going on, it might be easier to remove everything and start fresh.
 

lharrell79

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Where does the rat's nest of wires go to? Are they spliced into the back of the radio? I would carefully trace each wire and start removing them, being careful not to interfere with the factory wires.
 

lharrell79

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Okay, I think that might be part of an alarm system. Follow the red wire, and you'll probably see where they cut the ignition wire and spliced (poorly) the red and white in. The white fell off, but hopefully the red is still attached. Once you find the ignition wire, reconnect it.

elp-remote-start-installation-starter-kill-relay_1.jpg
 
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RLoreng

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Okay, I think that might be part of an alarm system. Follow the red wire, and you'll probably see where they cut the ignition wire and spliced (poorly) the red and white in. The white fell off, but hopefully the red is still attached. Once you find the ignition wire, reconnect it.



elp-remote-start-installation-starter-kill-relay_1.jpg



The white goes to the relay and has a smaller gauge wire spliced that goes to the box. The red wire is also spliced into the harness and goes to the relay. That box has 2 black wires, one that goes to the relay and the other goes to that other black piece shown by the e brake. The rest of those wires shown go to the box and the relay and are just zip tied in a rats nest. That diagram looks pretty similar to what's going on.


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lharrell79

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Okay, where they splice the red wire into the factory harness is the ignition wire. I'm betting they cut the ignition wire in half, spliced the red wire to one side and the white wire to the other side. That is where the white wire fell off. Essentially the relay completes the circuit.

You need to look where the red wire is splice into the factory harness. If you find where the factory wire is cut, remove the red wire and reconnect the factory wire.
 
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RLoreng

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Okay, where they splice the red wire into the factory harness is the ignition wire. I'm betting they cut the ignition wire in half, spliced the red wire to one side and the white wire to the other side. That is where the white wire fell off. Essentially the relay completes the circuit.



You need to look where the red wire is splice into the factory harness. If you find where the factory wire is cut, remove the red wire and reconnect the factory wire.



I know right where the red wire is connected, I'll try and splice it all back together and get the "professional " wiring out of there


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RLoreng

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I know right where the red wire is connected, I'll try and splice it all back together and get the "professional " wiring out of there


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Oh and don't worry about the wire with the spade. That's wiring I started for red led strobe lights.


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justin13703

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Yeah you definitely have some sort of LoJack-type device there that can prevent the vehicle from running remotely. You will have to pull all the tape, zip ties, plastic covering off of all that wiring and trace all the wires and remove them. Like has been said, a few wires in the ignition harness are going to be cut and run to that relay. It may just be the starter wire off of the ignition.Getting the truck running again will be as simple as finding the ignition wires that were cut, and soldering them back together. Everything else should be just removing wires.
 

rocket

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11 years from manufacture leaves plenty of time for a hack to get his mitts on a quality American product.
 
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RLoreng

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11 years from manufacture leaves plenty of time for a hack to get his mitts on a quality American product.



Does it have to be soldered or can I get away with 2 butt connectors?


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sbarron

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Personally I would solder, but being inside the cab, butt connectors should be ok, especially if you can get the ones with silicone.


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RLoreng

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Personally I would solder, but being inside the cab, butt connectors should be ok, especially if you can get the ones with silicone.


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Hooked the main harness wires back together and still no crank. Getting it towed to a shop


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RLoreng

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Hooked the main harness wires back together and still no crank. Getting it towed to a shop


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So here's the update, harness wires hooked back together, no crank, took it to a shop. The mechanic told me the truck won't start and run because the truck doesn't recognize the key anymore. Time to get a new key! Also, it's not a remote start it's a gps system


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rocket

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Does it have to be soldered or can I get away with 2 butt connectors?


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solder is best, but connectors can werk, But I would eventually get them soldered.
 

rocket

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So here's the update, harness wires hooked back together, no crank, took it to a shop. The mechanic told me the truck won't start and run because the truck doesn't recognize the key anymore. Time to get a new key! Also, it's not a remote start it's a gps system


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thats why mechanics get the big bucks
 

lharrell79

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If you have the sentry key system, you will be locked out after 5 attempts without a chipped key. I wonder if your pc thought you were trying a different key since the ignition circuit was open. Did you have it towed to the dealership? Will they have to reprogram the keys?
 
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RLoreng

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If you have the sentry key system, you will be locked out after 5 attempts without a chipped key. I wonder if your pc thought you were trying a different key since the ignition circuit was open. Did you have it towed to the dealership? Will they have to reprogram the keys?



No I towed it to a local shop that works on all of our fire apparatus, real good group of guys. When I bought the truck it came with a regular key and desperate fob. Thinking it was just a spare. Sounds like I'm getting the correct key for the truck and getting programmed


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