Cam plus other stuff?

If I need specific tools I can get them at the local hobby shop on base.
What would be the most "specialty" tool I would need?

But I have basic tools really.

Camo Ram

You don't wanna loose any keepers! And you won't need a PSC as the 6.1 runs perfect on SC, some guys have run it straight up on the factory pcm. I will post up pics of the tools you need, you may be able to get the damper back on without the insert threaded shaft with bearing but the miller insert is a must, my filed down crank edge is proof of that when i scratched the edge on home made insert back at cam 1. I would lend you my homemade valve tool but it has been used so many times and needs tweeking every 2nd or third spring but then again for the 30 i paid i,ve done 2 sets. There are some other small things to consider but will tell ya later (new damper, torque specs, procedure) I also have a PSC cam tuner i bought from Greg that may be available later but IMO you won't need it.

Just finished the valve seal and spring job on the truck and will post up pics later in that thread so have a look. Also you may find one of my ol cam threads or two just click on my name, stats, and threads started. Greg, Ken and all the other 03-05 Guys will help ya too!

03MopaRamman said:

You don't wanna loose any keepers!

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Agreed don't want to loose any in the motor. I know I dropped one and had to pull the head to get it back out. But I dropped another one that bounced off the shop floor and right down the drain in the middle of the floor so I was glad to have the spare ones just in case.

While you are changing springs, I'd go ahead and slip on new valve seals. I also stuff the drain holes in my heads with paper towels. Problem was I almost over looked one of the holes I had blocked. You are getting all good information. One thing that IMO is key to having good idle manners when using SC/PSC1 is the 03 high idle mod. It gives you 800 cold startup and then drops to 630-650 when warmed up and prevents stalling. SC tuner gives you a little timing at idle as does the stat and modified IAT. And anytime you bump the idle up a little it really helps stablize the (MAP signal) timing. Surging is the issue and is caused by the MAP sending an unstable signal to the PCM which in turns is also recieving input from the O2s. They then fall into a cycle of one is sending lean signal and the other is sending a rich signal. Raising the idle a little is a key factor to stablizing the signals. The high idle mod can only be done on 03/04's with a power steering pressure switch. A rpm window switch (set@1100 rpm) is used to open and close a 12vdc relay which in turns opens and closes the pwr steering pressure switch which signals the PCM to raise the target idle. Danny I'm sure remembers when I was first experimenting with doing this. It all has to work together, I put all the support mods on the truck before doing the actual cam install. The startup was without any issues. I would take advantage of your deployment by loading the 03 manual on your laptop and reading it top to bottom. And hopefully we will be doing crazy mods using the Megasquirt to make our 03's fast when you get back.

Edit: In answer to 98 Hemi (Sorry Greg you hadn't posted when i wrote this, will read your above). Yeh i normally am pretty good using my small pen magnet as safety but my valve tool was acting up and i made 2 drops and the danger is the pushrods are pulled on the cylinder you do to allow the tool freedom to work so ya down those holes could be a goodbye love situation, but i suppose having a spare for those down the drain.......lol......bad lucks is very OK.

I have a valve retainer that I dropped, it never hit the floor. I spent two days dismantling the driver side front suspension, starter, headers everything. Never did find that sucker. To this day I still search the ground and the truck looking for it. Fukkn magic...

Greg, I am gonna need more info on the idle up mod as that is critical prior to my upcoming KRC and blow up the truck DSP tune! Lol....jk. BTW just finished the valve seals, etc and shes running the best ever other than there is a ported tb in the garbage can, will post up and explain later on my other thread thats buried in the DIY. Davey you can download the manual free online for our trucks but suggest you read all the 6.1 cam threads as the non-beleivers are outnumbered by the NUMBERS. Greg i will dive into your ****......thread next. Danny

03MopaRamman said:

Greg, I am gonna need more info on the idle up mod as that is critical prior to my upcoming KRC and blow up the truck DSP tune! Lol....jk. BTW just finished the valve seals, etc and shes running the best ever other than there is a ported tb in the garbage can, will post up and explain later on my other thread thats buried in the DIY. Davey you can download the manual free online for our trucks but suggest you read all the 6.1 cam threads as the non-beleivers are outnumbered by the NUMBERS. Greg i will dive into your ****......thread next. Danny

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I have read that the hemi doesn't necessarily need a lot of timing, I use 93 octane on a SC 91 canned tune. The wtr/**** injection eliminates any indication of knock and provides a cooler inlet charge. All good things in my book. Note: the hemi knock sensors are not reading at idle or wot. With only two of them, one on each bank there isn't a way to phase them for each cylinder. Basically they only work when the engine is part throttle struggling up a grade. The Megasquirt can read them but I'm not sure I'm going to brother more than using an audible amp to listen and tune any knock out.

All awesome info thanks guys ill definetly download the manual. But do you mean the one that came with the truck or is there a different one?

And ill prolly do it all at once since ill definetly have the cash, but as mentioned in op I have higher concerns, (ie lift, prerunner fenders and a few other things) so if this becomes to much ill start saving for it so I can do it all at once.

Camo Ram

don't know if the 6.1 is going to be a good choice for a truck off his size, the low-end just isn't there. If he does the verter later on then maybe but right out of the box turning 37's is going to suck. If he was a little rcsb I'd be more on board with it but there have been a lot of threads regarding the 6.1 and lack of low-end in the bigger trucks. you really need to build up the low-end ( gears/tc) before going with that cam.

can the 03's make use of an adjustable timing gear to advance or retard the timing ( believe people were making the most tq around the 4-6° mark) to build up his low-end or would that cause them to have a **** fit tuning wise?

If the 260 is out, and the only thing that is left is the straight 6.1, IMO I would do gears and converter well before the cam.

On the converter side, you need to spec out the cam you want to run before pick the converter. to high or to low of a stall and your truck won't run good. Also need to spec it if you tow heavy loads as well. just some food for thought.

Good points Ryan, Glad you joined in. The 4 degree advanced using crower chain has been done successfully on an LX car and i think it brought the power band down from 3k to about 2600. The first time i ran the 6.1 i also did my 2600 stall and it was a missmatch and not till i did my gears is when it jived together. Main reason i ditched the cam is that i tow a trailer now and thats why the drop in mopar. I think a 3k stall would do him ok but would not be able to tow a big rv however Davey has the 3.92,s.

I have not yet commented on the big tires delema for these big gassers but i can say anything over 33 is a waste of mods and fuel.

I like the 268 but some argue its not a quad cab cam. I met a guy who did it with a CMR tune but last i heard he frigged his trans. I think another advantage Davey has is the long tubes. An efan mod and underdrive balancer pulley would help free up another 10 bhp but yet again $$$.

Bottum line is the 6.1 goes like snot up to 6400 and when you get on it in first gear the loss of bottum end is only temporary till you hit up some revs. 25 RWHP is what they say.
Did i stray of topic yet....lol.

Big tires is cause I plan on making my truck a prerunner "look". But definelty thanks for clarifying that since I am in the bigger truck. Dont plan on hauling anything super heavy, max would prolly a couple thousand while moving around with the air force. I plan on getting a cummins once this one is paid off so that will be my tow rig and this one will become more of a toy

Camo Ram

What size you running now?

35s, I'm planning on 4-6 inch bds lift and prerunner style glass bedsides all around and custom bumpers and sliders.

Camo Ram

Trust me you don't wanna turn em any heavier or bigger. I had some cool looking 35's and ditched them to go back to 285's kinda of a shame cause i always wanted that look but it just killed the performance. 6" lift with 35's is spot on. 37's are for trucks with 600 torque or more, save that for your next diesel.

You've given me some stuff to think about lol thanks

Camo Ram

03MopaRamman said:

Good points Ryan, Glad you joined in. The 4 degree advanced using crower chain has been done successfully on an LX car and i think it brought the power band down from 3k to about 2600. The first time i ran the 6.1 i also did my 2600 stall and it was a missmatch and not till i did my gears is when it jived together. Main reason i ditched the cam is that i tow a trailer now and thats why the drop in mopar. I think a 3k stall would do him ok but would not be able to tow a big rv however Davey has the 3.92,s.

I have not yet commented on the big tires delema for these big gassers but i can say anything over 33 is a waste of mods and fuel.

I like the 268 but some argue its not a quad cab cam. I met a guy who did it with a CMR tune but last i heard he frigged his trans. I think another advantage Davey has is the long tubes. An efan mod and underdrive balancer pulley would help free up another 10 bhp but yet again $$$.

Bottum line is the 6.1 goes like snot up to 6400 and when you get on it in first gear the loss of bottum end is only temporary till you hit up some revs. 25 RWHP is what they say.
Did i stray of topic yet....lol.

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the 268 that I run is a good cam, not a low-end cam though. It has about the same if not less low-end than the stock cam, after 3k it's a beast. so the right setup will absolutely work, just takes more to get a big truck to move than a smaller truck. pulling a few thousand pounds plus making those 37s roll and making a 5500lb truck move all at once, you are going to want all the low-end you can get your hands on. Throw in an ud pully and you up your revs. which adjusts your usable power band further up into the rpm range, which he doesn't want.

So I guess what I'm looking for Is something that will get me going from a dig. Meaning I need low end torque....wish I could mess with my trans gearing and stuff....

Camo Ram

Reason for mentioning pulley was more for helping with the higher than stock reving. After i sold mine to Greg I put a new OEM givin the age of the truck as the rubber around the pulley dries out over time. Was not aware of the characteristics of a UD pulley as you explained, but i beleive you and will think about that the next time i hammer the Magnum as shes got a powerbond 25 UD to spin the Crazy Spartan!

Davy120 said:

So I guess what I'm looking for Is something that will get me going from a dig. Meaning I need low end torque....wish I could mess with my trans gearing and stuff....

Camo Ram

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Those are the delivery Methods, so are we back to the CRAZY Jay!!!