Coil pack bolt (or intake) stripped on Cylinder 7

Hi All,

Just joined here looking for your help.
I bought my '08 4.7L about 2 months ago and the problems are starting to surface. I guess I'll be posting a lot more.

Anyway, the engine light is on and there are 2 trouble codes: P0307 engine misfire and P0113 Intake Air Temperature sensor.
My post is about the misfire.

I looked at the coil pack on 7, and the current coil looks newer and different (shorter) than the other ones which I'm guessing are still OEM. However, the coil has a lot of play and the bolt cannot be tighten, it feels like it's stripped. I haven't had the time to try and remove the coil pack.

In your experience, could this be just the bolt (softer material) or the threaded hole in the intake? If it is the intake, how big of a job is it to repair it?

Thanks

Chances are if anything is stripped it is going to be the hole. You should be able to tell relatively easily if the bolt is stripped by just looking at the threads.

If it is the hole, you could tap it a size or two larger and use a matching bolt, or it may be possible to use a helicoil.

Also, if that coil pack looks different, move it to a different cylinder and see if the code follows it.

if the coil is different, maybe the bolt is the incorrect diameter and/or thread pitch

These damned bolts (which are actually studs) are a real pain in the rear end. They rust just by looking at them, and are extremely hard to find in any stealership... (And after looking for them I can tell you it is not only an issue for Canada)

They are not available in aftermarket form.

In some cases IF you are lucky the complete stud will come out with the coil pack, but many times the top nut is just too stuck on there and will break the stud. Here is what I did the last time around:

remove the stud from the Intake (after removing the coil pack of course), cut the remaining stud threads flush with the top of the bolt. Drill a hole of the appropriate size in the top of the bolt. This is better achieved in a press drill. Be careful not to drill too deep as you may sever the top of the bolt from the lower threads. The using a tap for the whole you drilled, start cutting the threads in the top of the bolt. You will have to sacrifice a TAP for this operation, as the whole is not deep enough to allow the tap to reach the full depth of cut of the threads. So as you go, grin the tip of your tap a little at a time and keep cutting the threads until you reach the full depth of cut on the tap at the bottom of the whole you drilled. You can then insert a cut to lenght threaded rod or a screw from which you have cut the head off into the threads to hold the coil in place.

It is a tedious operation, but the only one I could figure out to fix a problem Dodge doesn't even have a solution to as there are thousands of those studs on back-order from the dealers...

If the complete stud is stripped in the intake, then, as stated above, the solution is to drill 1 size larger and tap new threads. Just be aware that the intake manifold, even though it is made of plastic, has metal inserts around the stud whole. So whatever size you drill, make sure either the metal sleeves are drilled as well to a slightly larger size (do not thread them sleeves), and then use a threaded rod and 2 nuts (1 below and 1 above the coil pack) to secure the whole thing. Use some good tapping lube as you will be tapping the Aluminium heads, and Aluminium is very sticky and tricky to machine.

Hope this helps

Oh boy, looks like a lot of work. I was afraid you guys would say it's the intake.
I'll have to investigate when I have some time.

What coil pack do you recommend I buy? Aftermarket, dealer? If you have a make/model please let me know.

Thanks for helping me out.

You need something like in this link but the right thread for your bolt/stud. https://www.amazon.com/Helicoil-552...471018740&sr=8-3&keywords=helicoil+repair+kit

They are a simple cheap easy fix to repair a stripped thread. Basically you drill out the hole to the dia required by the Helicoil, screw the helicoil in and then your stud and your good to go.

Unless you change all of them, maintain consistency and go for the OEM.

Keep us posted on you results.

Any idea how much it is to change all of them? From my research, it looks like the boot is usually fused to the plug and that will cause a new set of problems. Is it even worth changing all of them?

F22-Raptor said:

Any idea how much it is to change all of them? From my research, it looks like the boot is usually fused to the plug and that will cause a new set of problems. Is it even worth changing all of them?

Click to expand...

I have not had any issues removing the plugs from the boots. The boots do get hard though and I have made sure to use plenty of dielectric grease inside the coil's recess to promote proper contact and prevent moisture from getting in there.

If you don't plan on making any performance improvements the OEM or OEM like aftermarket coils are quite enough for standard application. The cheap ones go for under 10$ + shipping on RockAuto. Don't know much about the brands that are there, but DENSO is the only one I really know runs for about 15$ + shipping. I have heard some bad stuff about the AIRTEX stuff so I would probably stay away from those, as for the rest I can't say anything.

As far as I am concerned, I would only address the one you are having issues with, and leave the rest alone if they are working. Also if you decide you want to change the plugs, just go with standard copper ones. These engines far prefer them over the new iridium or other higher end plugs. You'll get better performance and MPG's with the standard copper stuff.

Hope this helps.

I agree with replacing just the one on cylinder 7. I'll take a look at Rockauto see what they have.
The one I have now is Delphi GN10458 (35014). Not sure if that means anything to anyone.

My MPG is 12 (or 19.2L/100Km), I guess it could be better. I don't know what it should be. I'm guessing with the No 7 not working well the MPG would suffer. I've bought some seafoam cleaner and conditioner, apparently, it's the one additive that makes a difference.
What's your MPG?

F22-Raptor said:

I agree with replacing just the one on cylinder 7. I'll take a look at Rockauto see what they have.
The one I have now is Delphi GN10458 (35014). Not sure if that means anything to anyone.

Click to expand...

They have the Delphi on RockAuto and the part number is the one you are showing above, and the coil does look a little different than the OEM one. Before changing the coil at that point I might try putting it in another cylinder to see if the problem follows the coil.
I have seen folks that were describing an issue with the power from the coil going to the engine block as a path of least resistance. This is most case due to a bad insulating boot. A quick way to assess this is by looking inside the boot, you should see black traces like a burn mark or something similar. This can be easily rectified by buttering the whole thing with Dielectric grease. It can also be caused by the fact that your coil is not properly seating against the plug because of the stud not doing its job.

So

1. Repair the stud to ensure proper seating of the coil against the plug (butter the inside of the coil boot with dielectric grease)
2. If that doesn't fix it swap the coil and see if the code follows the coil
3. If the code follows the coil, replace coil
4. If the code remains with the cylinder then the issue is elsewhere, check the coil harness for any broken wires you can also butter the coil connector with dielectric grease

F22-Raptor said:

My MPG is 12 (or 19.2L/100Km), I guess it could be better. I don't know what it should be. I'm guessing with the No 7 not working well the MPG would suffer. I've bought some seafoam cleaner and conditioner, apparently, it's the one additive that makes a difference.
What's your MPG?

Click to expand...

Well 19L/100km is not that bad especially considering you have a missfiring cylinder.
Have a read at this thread I started a while back on this very topic :
4.7L owners I would like to know how you are doing in regards to mpg

I just did a 1500km trip to Lake Simcoe hauling a 3500lbs camper and averaged 25L/100km.

Configuration of your truck (regular cab vs quad cab, long bed vs short bed, 2wd vs 4x4) as well as your driving habits will have an influence on MPGs.

Keep in mind that if the L/100km is excessive due to an issue under the left foot, Seafoam will have absolutely no influence...

If this truck is new to you, here are a few things I would do before putting any snake oil in the truck:
Change all fluids,

• Engine Oil
• Transmission oil
• Differential oil (both front and back if you have a 4x4)
• Coolant (the appropriate coolant for the RAM 4.7L should be transparent)
• Power steering fluid (Our truck used ATF +4 as PS fluid)

Thanks XB. The truck is really new to me, I bought it about 2 months ago. In hindsight, it was a mistake. The previous owner managed to hide or temporarily fix a few things and now they're coming up. There's also a transmission issue P0868 low line pressure. Once I fix the big issues, and based on how much I spend on the repairs, I'll start tackling the maintenance ones.
Currently I am working with a shop to fix the AC, it died 2-3 weeks after I got the truck.


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Quick question. Do I need a thin wall socket to replace the plugs? The truck is an '08.


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Nope regular socket will do just fine. (Sorry for the late response)

No worries. Thanks for getting back to me.


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Fellow Canadian and 4.7L owner... Gotta make sure you are well taken care of in here !

Phew... then it's a good thing I don't have a HEMI. I might not have anyone to take care of me. [emoji12]


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