Comp 260 or 268?

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Hemi450hp

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Yes it does. Flashpaq is all you need.
 

ST-8

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Where does the 260 startgetting into the heart of its power band?

Seems just around 2k up to 6k it pulls great. Once it's in 2500 an up it deff pulls the mail.
 

KGBIGCOUNTRY

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While you have it apart, do a timing set since you will be there. Make sure you go ahead and order OEM 5.7 exhaust gaskets and up to your on the new bolts, you have 3 main sets of options there. Im really becoming a fan of the 6.1 exhaust manifold bolts for ease of getting a wrench on them. I might have missed it but im guessing your gonna be running 6.1 springs and rods correct.

Take a glance at this to make sure you have it all ready to go without an issue.
http://www.ramforum.com/f50/cam_parts_list-16607/
 

ST-8

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6.1 exhaust bolts will work on a 5.7?
 

KGBIGCOUNTRY

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Yeppp, and come with a factory version of lock tite for the heads that is still safe. The head on the bolt is 10mm where as everything else is 13mm so clearancing the primarys is so much easier. If you run the pacesetter longtubes the 13mm is not that much of an issue, the BBks are tighter to work around so the smaller head will make life easier.
 
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I've read the cam parts thread and have everything I need, except the timing set. Any one know how much a replacement timing set is?
 

TylerB

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6.1 exhaust bolts will work on a 5.7?

I thought they did, but wasn't absolutely sure. I'm a big fan of the 6.1 bolts and 6.1 gaskets, but the 4th has D shaped exhaust ports.
 
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KGBIGCOUNTRY

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Local dealer should have them for around $65-100 just depending on the dealer.
 
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Alright thank you. I'm just hoping this install isn't going to be a huge job.
 

KGBIGCOUNTRY

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If your doing it and have all the right tools figure a solid 8-12 hrs first time. The valve springs are what takes the most time in my opinion. I have the TRQ specs listed for your cam bolt and crank bolt on the top of the per secion along with other stuff you will need. Main thing is do not rush and do not over look anything. Everything is fairly easy to put back together just lable or set the front cover bolts in order because a few of those are different. Any issues Pm me and I can walk ya through it. After yall seat the pushrods and have the front cover back together leave the valve covers off and cycle the motor with a wrench a few times to make sure none pop out. If they are not fully seated on start up they will move.

Edit* Yes it can be done faster, alot faster just going on averages.
 
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Thanks guys, you're a ton of help. I just need to buy a spring compressor for the valve springs and I'll be set.
 

ST-8

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Took me 20 hrs to do my cam. 10 of those were spent extracting a broken crank bolt out of the crank. Fun right there
 

ST-8

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I would not wish that on my worst enemy. That was a complete pain in the ******* ass!!!!! Especially when you drive 200 miles on a saturday todo it an have to be home by Monday:( all worked out tho. Tho now if I do a cam swap it may have to just be complete engine swap. I always did like the Idea of a 392 stroker(10 yrs from now)
 

truckin151

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that's brutal. mine took a couple hours longer because we pulled the heads to check a few things out.
 
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I'd like to pull the heads to see how much carbon is built up on the pistons (it would also make installing the new valve springs a hell of a lot easier) but unfortunately time doesn't allow for that right now. I do like the idea of having fresh head gaskets on though.. Just for peace of mind later on down the road.
 

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Make sure you get a hemi spec valve spring tool. A normal small block gm tool will not work if your leaving the heads on. heads off also make it easier to locate a keeper if it decides to skip away. When you have everything off and your about to do the valves your talking about another 10 mins to yank the heads to do the springs on the bench. You can leave the manifolds on and also swap the BBKs on the bench which will be win/win on everything being so much faster. If you yank them you can also use a reg c-style valve tool to change the springs which is alot cheaper. The only thing to keep in mind on yanking the heads it there is a ground strap on each head at the back and the intake manifold is easy to pull off just need a fuel disconnect tool and unhook the main bus plug behind it instead of undoing all the wiring harness, will save a ton of time.
 
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03MopaRamman

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Good Cam Thread! Heads and Bigger Cam are next for my Hemi Wagon.....2014/15....LOL....and with leaving the headers in place saves Gasket Dough.
 
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hey good tips there... I never even though about putting the headers on with the heads on the bench! I was regretting doing the header swap considering how tight the spaces are on the drivers side. I guess taking the motor down to just the block kind of intimidated me so i never thought it would make things easier...
 
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