Keeps blowing head gaskets

asasial · Sep 9, 2010

Bigtman07 said:
It should be in the service manual I would think. Let me see what I can find.

Found this with a quick search.

•Step 1: Tighten bolts 1-10, 20 N·m (15 ft. lbs.).
•Step 2: Tighten bolts 1-10, 47 N·m (35 ft. lbs.). Tighten bolts 11-14, 25 N·m (18 ft. lbs.).
•Step 3: Tighten bolts 1-10, 90 degrees. Tighten bolts 11-14, 30 N·m (22 ft. lbs.).

Maybe it will help?

yeah that sounds right i was just thinkin off the top of my head. i have a manual. when i re checked after being ran i checked them at 85 ft. lbs. but i don't know how close to the final toruque that is.

sawcut64 · Sep 9, 2010

Okay a couple things come to mind, not sure if it will help but....have you tried factory head gaskets instead of felpro? There is a bleeder **** on the waterpump? Forget where exactly, BUT is pretty crucial it's bleed to get the air out of the system because 4.7's are notorious for overheating and warping heads and trashing gaskets. The 90 degree turn can be done by marking the socket with a Sharpe every 90 degrees and eyeballing it as close as possible.

asasial · Sep 10, 2010

the bleeder plug is on top of the engine where the return hose comes out and goes to the radiator. i bled it when put the engine back together. i haven't tried any other gaskets. and i've put more coolant into it to top it off over the past month than it would hold if the system was dry to start with. and i know how to do the torque turn. i want a final torque to recheck it after it's been ran to make sure it hasn't loosened up.

KGBIGCOUNTRY · Sep 10, 2010

Did you ever anwser about the locatator pins after getting the heads milled?

asasial · Sep 11, 2010

sorry didn't see that post. no i didn't knock them down when i had the heads milled but the new head haven't been shaved or at least as far as i know they are the stock height. but the first set of gaskets with the shaved heads lasted the longest.

sawcut64 · Sep 11, 2010

Well something isn't right, if you're bleeding the coolant system as you pour in the coolant and a couple times after it's running to purge the air, replace the gaskets/head bolts, TQ them properly, and mill the heads or replace with new heads and you still have this problem. Maybe a cracked block?

asasial · Sep 11, 2010

i bleed it several times. it's not a problem for a while. runs great doesn't lose water or get hot. then all of a sudden the water starts dissappearing. i usually checked the water level at least once a week. this time it made it to about 3700 miles before the water started dissappearing. now last time i drove it it lost about 1.5 gallons after driveing about 150 miles.
haven't done anything to the block. just straight edged it and lightly sanded it to clean it up before reinstalling the heads. it runs great for a while then starts loosing water. and inspecting the head gaskets you can see where they were blowing between a water jacket and cylinder. they only totally blew the first time. tore a journal into the head but changed them the other times once it starts loosing water, i knew were it was going an no since just driving til it completely blows and damages the head.

sawcut64 · Sep 11, 2010

asasial said:
i bleed it several times. it's not a problem for a while. runs great doesn't lose water or get hot. then all of a sudden the water starts dissappearing. i usually checked the water level at least once a week. this time it made it to about 3700 miles before the water started dissappearing. now last time i drove it it lost about 1.5 gallons after driveing about 150 miles.
haven't done anything to the block. just straight edged it and lightly sanded it to clean it up before reinstalling the heads. it runs great for a while then starts loosing water. and inspecting the head gaskets you can see where they were blowing between a water jacket and cylinder. they only totally blew the first time. tore a journal into the head but changed them the other times once it starts loosing water, i knew were it was going an no since just driving til it completely blows and damages the head.

I guess I would go back to factory gaskets then, it's worth a shot.

Redtruck-VA · Jan 19, 2011

You being a mechanic it's hard to make suggestion as I am sure you have done all the simple stuff. But straight edge the block surface, maybe check with some pentration die for cracks. Have the head surfaced. Sit the head on the block without the gasket to see how it sits. Maybe use a feeler around it or transfer blueing to check for contact. Maybe stud the damn head bolts. Use high temp sealant on the heads and button it up using standard torque but do the 90 degree bit using a torque wrench to see what the actual number is.

sawcut64 · Jan 19, 2011

I'm also wondering about the waterpump and if it's TQ'd properly? Over tightening(or not tight enough) may cause the rubber gasket failure and a very slow leak that may not be visible.

RAMpage · Jan 25, 2011

Dont have any advise for your head gasket problem but be very and i mean very careful buying a hemi for 800 bucks. a desent one will easily go for 2000 without the harness. ive been screwed over on a few hemis trying to get one for cheap and ended up just building a crate motor. i would be weary about buying one with the tranny attached to it as well. ive baught two that were blown to **** inside with the trannies still attached. i think it would be bad ass to have a hemi dak so im hopin you go that route lol. just my two cents you cant buy anything with. hope it works out for you either way and soon

Keeps blowing head gaskets

asasial

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sawcut64

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asasial

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asasial

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sawcut64

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