ramportin1
Sickest member here
I found I had a broken manifold bolt and decided hey, let's replace it with some really expensive long tubes lol anyway, of course installing did not go smoothly (when does it ever honestly) so I figured I'd post up some not so expected issues I ran into as well as post up all the pictures I took. Also I did take a before cold start video (which is stock manifolds and cats, resonator delete to a 10 series dumped) and I'll take a after cold start video here shortly and post up to compare, which is KOOKS long tube headers to KOOKS catted mid pipe to my trusty 10 series and dumped again. I'll also give some revs and TRY to do a WOT fly by if possible. I will say the sound is top notch, super deep tone, crazy aggressive and just SCREAAAAAMS at WOT. Could not be happier with sound. For all you drone pansies (no offense) this is not the set up for you, drone is intense lol but I love it.
Absolutely HAVE to thank NICK@GOTEXHAUST again for coming through for me and being such a good dude. Awesome customer service this guy, I HIGHLY recommend anyone looking at mods to hit him up first. It can't hurt
PROBLEMS TO EXPECT: 1* Passenger side header will hit the motor mount bracket and require you to grind down the bracket, grinding it down quite a large amount will give you the clearance needed for install AND so your tube doesn't clank every time you hit a bump or WOT and torque the motor.... I wasn't very comfortable grinding that much out so I grinded some and then dented the one tube in a bit to give me that extra room.
2: as with most headers, getting the bolts in some of the lower holes is right next to impossible and to torque em properly is impossible unless you have some major boss tools. 2 bolts I had no choice but to torque the old fashioned way and just feel for it.
3: driver side header will also hit the same motor mount but it's much better then the pass. Side. Only thing I had to do here was grind back about 6-7 threads back of the motor mount bolt that's through the nut, that gave me the perfect amount of room.
4: trans cooler lines on pass side will be pushed against the header, I had to remove the bracket and carefully bend them away enough that I was comfortable with.... to do this carefully is pretty tedious and frustrating lol, at this point I had busted about every damn knuckle and screamed every curse word imaginable ha.
5: KOOKS did NOT supply a single split lock washer for the header bolts...... not sure if that was a mistake or they seriously expect someone to install headers with no lock washers. So grab yourself at least 16 of those.
6: KOOKS also did not supply a band clamp for the Y-muffler or cat back. This I guess is not necessarily on them but I would have hoped for as much as KOOKS costs they would've of supplied that.
7: Not a big deal but worth adding, I threw a P0420 code within a half hour. So if you don't have a tuner to be able to tune out your 02 sensors you will be stuck with a check engine light most likely. I'll be hitting Sean up tomorrow lol.
I think that's it... if I think of anything else I'll add it. I will upload some videos here shortly maybe a day or 2.
For what it's worth, I am a bald eagle screaming nitro fume smelling junkie lol I love LOUD deep raspy muscle. I was hoping for a ridiculously loud truck after this (keeping in mind it's mostly stock) with a super aggressive deep tone and this set up is every bit of that. Super stoked.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
Absolutely HAVE to thank NICK@GOTEXHAUST again for coming through for me and being such a good dude. Awesome customer service this guy, I HIGHLY recommend anyone looking at mods to hit him up first. It can't hurt
PROBLEMS TO EXPECT: 1* Passenger side header will hit the motor mount bracket and require you to grind down the bracket, grinding it down quite a large amount will give you the clearance needed for install AND so your tube doesn't clank every time you hit a bump or WOT and torque the motor.... I wasn't very comfortable grinding that much out so I grinded some and then dented the one tube in a bit to give me that extra room.
2: as with most headers, getting the bolts in some of the lower holes is right next to impossible and to torque em properly is impossible unless you have some major boss tools. 2 bolts I had no choice but to torque the old fashioned way and just feel for it.
3: driver side header will also hit the same motor mount but it's much better then the pass. Side. Only thing I had to do here was grind back about 6-7 threads back of the motor mount bolt that's through the nut, that gave me the perfect amount of room.
4: trans cooler lines on pass side will be pushed against the header, I had to remove the bracket and carefully bend them away enough that I was comfortable with.... to do this carefully is pretty tedious and frustrating lol, at this point I had busted about every damn knuckle and screamed every curse word imaginable ha.
5: KOOKS did NOT supply a single split lock washer for the header bolts...... not sure if that was a mistake or they seriously expect someone to install headers with no lock washers. So grab yourself at least 16 of those.
6: KOOKS also did not supply a band clamp for the Y-muffler or cat back. This I guess is not necessarily on them but I would have hoped for as much as KOOKS costs they would've of supplied that.
7: Not a big deal but worth adding, I threw a P0420 code within a half hour. So if you don't have a tuner to be able to tune out your 02 sensors you will be stuck with a check engine light most likely. I'll be hitting Sean up tomorrow lol.
I think that's it... if I think of anything else I'll add it. I will upload some videos here shortly maybe a day or 2.
For what it's worth, I am a bald eagle screaming nitro fume smelling junkie lol I love LOUD deep raspy muscle. I was hoping for a ridiculously loud truck after this (keeping in mind it's mostly stock) with a super aggressive deep tone and this set up is every bit of that. Super stoked.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk