Lifter/Rocker Arm adjustment

I need to know how to adjust the lifters and rocker arms. I have a lifter tick under the driver side valve cover. I don't know any of the TRQ specs. I've got an '05 4.7 L half ton.

There is no adjustment on the 3.7, 4.7, 5.7, or pretty much any motor chrysler has made in the last 20 years.

The 4.7 is a SOHC motor, so the valve lash is maintained by the lash adjusters. They act like hydrauluic lifters, inflating with oil to automatically adjust lash.

More than likely it's an oil issue. Have you checked the oil level? what viscosity are you running? last time you had it changed? Oil pressure look good on the gauge?

If all the above check out, and you suspect you have a bad lifter, pull your valve cover and rotate the cam until the valves are closed for one cylinder, and press on the lash adjusters. Should be firm, if they collapse easily or feel spongy they need replacement.

I'm running 5W20 instead of 5W30. I haven't checked the oil level lately either. I need to because it was running hot the other day meaning it could have burned up some oil. The last oil change was about 3100 miles ago. I'm gonna pull lifters from the driver side and see which are bad. I may have more than one going out. Or I could just replace all the lifters on that one side. Which would be best?

If its a tick that won't stop then it's most likely the lash adjusters. If it goes away a few minutes after start-up then it's possibly the hydraulic timing chain tensioner. When the timing chain adjuster gets weak it causes the timing chain to slap the timing cover until it pumps up, there are 2 of them one on each camshaft/timing chain. Like stated above if its constant then it may be one or more lash adjusters, when they wear out they don't move freely.

I am doing a cam swap soon so I went ahead and picked up 16 new mopar lash adjusters to replace while I'm in there. Remember to soak them in clean oil for 24-48 hrs prior to install. On a side note I bought a 4.7 HO engine from a guy who said it had a tick and he thought it was a rod or rod bearing. Once I pulled the valve covers and camshafts I checked the lash adjusters and they wouldn't move at all. After tearing the engine down to the bare block their was no damage or signs of wear on the rotating assembly. Therefore he swapped engines without troubleshooting it first, he could have simply replaced the lash adjusters instead of the engine.

If you compress them and they don't return or return slowly they're shot or if you can't compess them they're done. They should have a little play and return quickly.

New not compressed.
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Compressed.
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Old one compressed with all my might lol.
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So it should move freely? When they stick is when you replace? What causes the tick then if they don't compress? I thought they were always flush with the rocker...

When some go bad they are really spongy and don't return or don't move at all. They should always be flush with the rocker but if its collapsed or stiff to me that will cause a tick.

So after thinking about this I realized that the new ones do not have oil in them yet so they should be easy to compress. That being said I would have to agree with bigsloth that if they are spongy with oil in them then they are bad.

Ahh okay. Now I understand. That's why ya gotta let them sit in oil for up to 24 hrs. Gotcha. Do you know any easy methods to remove the rocker so you can get to the lifter? Or is there a special tool you have to buy/rent to remove them?

If you don't remove the camshafts you can pop the rockers off with a flat tip, if you remove the camshafts the rockers literally fall off. And for actually removing the lash adjusters you can pull them out with your fingers.

New ones will indeed compress because they have nothing in them. You want them firm on the motor, if you can squish one its bad.

Just as a precaution, I would strongly advise getting a can of Seafoam and running it through the oil before proceeding with this venture. I've seen too many scenarios where people (including myself) have replaced lifters or lash adjusters and the problem was actually a clogged oil passage that was causing the lifter to deflate.

The seafoam will eat up the carbon deposits and anything other than metal that may be clogging passages. Sometimes it even frees up stuck lifters/lash adjusters. Just dump a can in the oil with the engine warm, drive it around for a half hour or so, change the oil. Its $9 well spent.

I've never thought of putting seafoam in the crankcase, always put it in my intake through vacuum lines. Will it smoke like it does when putting it in the intake? Also if my engine oil is full before I change it and use seafoam will it hurt anything adding a full can to a full crankcase?

Yes, no, and no.

Seafoam has many uses. Induction cleaning through vacuum lines, it dries up moisture in fuel tanks, it can dry up coolant in oil after a head gasket failure/replacement. But the same thing that makes it good at dissolving carbon in the intake works in the oil as well. It gives directions on the back of the can for an oil additive. It recs an ounce per qt of oil, but ive found a flush of a whole can for 30 minutes works wonders.

1 can is only half a quart, it will do no damage to anything to run it on top of full oil.

I am so glad I joined this site. You have no idea how much you guys are of help. Like, I probably wouldn't know this without all the help from you all. You guys are awesome and ramforum was definitely a good pick. I appreciate the time you guys take out of your lives to help people like me. I mean I know how to do a lot of things but some things i just can't wrap my head around and that's where y'all come in. For example, y'all's recommendations and tips are astounding. Haha. Thank you guys very much!

Does Any one know what happen to my 04 hemi I was driven down the road and I was at a low rpm doing like 45 and it mad a huge power loss and was trying to back fire and wouldn't hardly stay at level idle it was jumping 1k to like 2 1/2k any advice idk if a lifter got stuck or what it has been making that tick everyone talks about all the time prior to this happen need help thanks

I have seen too many bad outcomes with seafoam to even think about trusting it.

What was they ?

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Reviewing this thread, after encountering different conditions of my lash adjusters... are really stiff ones bad? They move smoothly, with vise grips. Some are spongy.
I’m rebuilding my engine; and was at the stage of adding lash adjusters and rocker arm: to add cams on top. I cleaned them with WD-40, and used compressed air to clean excess off. oddly, two became very stiff when I sprayed in air in the tiny side holes. One was stiff the whole time. A spongy one became very stiff, when air blowed on and into the holes.

should I just replace them all? I have no interest in taking anything apart again.
I’ve been at this project for 8 months, and don’t want to waste time repeating a job. I got plenty of work I need to use my truck on, as it is.

Thanks in advance!