Pulled My Intake Manifold And Found This

I never had a problem passing my inspections, but like you said, it only takes a minute to unclamp the filter and toss the stock hose back on.

HEMIBjörn said:

To the OP,- how much is the truck normally driven?

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It's been a daily driver. Not many far commutes during the week. But it gets up to highway speeds a few times a month.

Any recommendations on fuel injector sources and brands? As well as brands and sources for plugs? WOuld like to swap out all the injectors, coils and plugs right now. But trying to save up, so a single injector, 16 plugs and a good cleaning will have to do for now. I pray that it will solve this problem.

Thanks for all the input and advice gents. I knew I came to the right place!!!

It is rare that the coil packs would be bad on a daily driver. I know many guys that have raced their trucks hard for upwards of 180k miles on the stock coil packs with no issues. I would just throw a set of NGK 5306 plugs in there and replace the 1 injector. Then if you still have a misfire code, swap the coil packs around from the cylinder that is throwing the code to another cylinder that is not throwing any codes. That will let you rule out the coil packs without spending the money on a new set.

Shouldn't need any coils. Just plugs. Use Champion Coppercore plugs until you know your truck can use other plugs. Check rockauto.com for injectors.

I'd always suggest OEM injectors, but then I've always worked for the dealer...

How long has it been going on? The stock injectors shouldnt wash the cylinder but if it was doing it for awhile it might have.

KGBIGCOUNTRY said:

How long has it been going on? The stock injectors shouldnt wash the cylinder but if it was doing it for awhile it might have.

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Sadly this has dragged on for a about a year.

Back to the drawing board!!!

I pulled the intake, cleaned it all up, replace all the spark plugs, replaced injector #1, put it all back together and the SAME thing continues to happen. AND IT GOT WORSE!!!!

Not to mention I got a red lighting bolt and loss of power!!!

I have code p0301 still showing up.

UGH SO FRUSTRATING!!

So here is what happened once I started it. It ran rough right of the bat. Threw a low fuel pressure code which cleared itself after I shut it down and started it back up. Initially, it ran rough and it smoothed out and ran great. Good throttle response and plenty of power.

So i let it sit overnight and started it the next afternoon. SAME THING HAPPENED. It started just fine and ran rough just like always. it Immediately threw the P0301 code. and just like always, once it got warmed up, it ran just fine. (I could feel it running a lot smoother now after it warms up, so that was a plus.)

But then something worse happened. I was driving along and the red lightning bolt started flashing and i had no power. If I stepped on the accelerator, it would just bog down. Erratic idle when stopped and even shut off on me. Once it shut off and I started it back on. the lightning bolt was gone and I made it home. I had this lightning bolt pop up before but only for a couple of seconds and then it went away.

So I am back at square one with more problems.

HELP!!!!!

What kind of injector did you use? Something has been making that injector wash the cylinder down. If everything was done correctly, I'd imagine you have an injector control problem. Do you or can you gain access to a noid light? This should tell you how the injector is pulsing.

If you have changed the spark plug, coil pack and the injector and are still having an issue on the same cylinder, it tells me some kind of electrical issue like an ECM.

Chasing problems is very frustrating. I'm going to think out loud and maybe something will help. The misfire code is monitored by the CKP sensor. It detects a change of engine speed that is outside the acceptable parameters. The actual cylinder is selected by the CMP sensor to determine the rotational position of the engine when this speed change occurs. Yours has selected cylinder #1 and you have replaced and/or moved the spark plug and COP. These being specific to a cylinder and are easy to eliminate. You have a condition that is temperature related. The engine starts in open loop and as it warms goes into closed loop. But you have an unusual condition on the inlet port on cylinder #1 which seems to me could be a air leak that is being covered up to some extent when the engine goes closed loop and starts using AFR readings to adjust fuel/timing. I would replace the intake manifold gaskets and closely inspect the manifold for any damage that could make a small leak. You may try spraying WD-40 around the manifold and listen for an idle change. A compression check would tell if there is anything unusual with #1 mechanically. But my guess is you have a vacuum leak at the port of #1. Good luck..

I bought a BWD injector from Oriellys.

Isn't a noid light essentially a test light? I've got one of those that I can attach the alligator tip to a prong. What sort of pulses should the injector be receiving? And won't the truck run rough with no fuel being sent to the cylinder while the plug is disconnected? Just trying to figure it out prior to doing it all.

I took off all the rubber gaskets and cleaned them/inspected them. I also closely inspected the manifold and could not find any cracks anywhere while I cleaned it all. I would think that if it was a vacuum leak, it would slowly get better with temp and not almost instant after I hear the click. But I am just thinking out loud too.
What about the CKP and CMP sensors? No one ha mentioned those before. What if those are having issues? Would that throw things off during warm up?

Redtruck-VA said:

Chasing problems is very frustrating. I'm going to think out loud and maybe something will help. The misfire code is monitored by the CKP sensor. It detects a change of engine speed that is outside the acceptable parameters. The actual cylinder is selected by the CMP sensor to determine the rotational position of the engine when this speed change occurs. Yours has selected cylinder #1 and you have replaced and/or moved the spark plug and COP. These being specific to a cylinder and are easy to eliminate. You have a condition that is temperature related. The engine starts in open loop and as it warms goes into closed loop. But you have an unusual condition on the inlet port on cylinder #1 which seems to me could be a air leak that is being covered up to some extent when the engine goes closed loop and starts using AFR readings to adjust fuel/timing. I would replace the intake manifold gaskets and closely inspect the manifold for any damage that could make a small leak. You may try spraying WD-40 around the manifold and listen for an idle change. A compression check would tell if there is anything unusual with #1 mechanically. But my guess is you have a vacuum leak at the port of #1. Good luck..

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I was also gonna suggest replacing the intake gaskets. This sounds like an air leak caused by old worn out gaskets.

Solohopper said:

I bought a BWD injector from Oriellys.

Isn't a noid light essentially a test light? I've got one of those that I can attach the alligator tip to a prong. What sort of pulses should the injector be receiving? And won't the truck run rough with no fuel being sent to the cylinder while the plug is disconnected? Just trying to figure it out prior to doing it all.

I took off all the rubber gaskets and cleaned them/inspected them. I also closely inspected the manifold and could not find any cracks anywhere while I cleaned it all. I would think that if it was a vacuum leak, it would slowly get better with temp and not almost instant after I hear the click. But I am just thinking out loud too.
What about the CKP and CMP sensors? No one ha mentioned those before. What if those are having issues? Would that throw things off during warm up?

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I mention the CKP/CMP sensors only to describe how the misfire code is generated and cylinder is identified. The click is a mystery to me as the condition is changing with warm up and the only condition I am aware of is going from open loop to close loop. My thinking is if there was a air leak it would have a lean condition while in open loop and then fatten the AFR in closed loop. This could have the cylinders running fat that were not seeing the leak (#1). Need to figure out what the click noise is associated with.

Redtruck-VA said:

I mention the CKP/CMP sensors only to describe how the misfire code is generated and cylinder is identified. The click is a mystery to me as the condition is changing with warm up and the only condition I am aware of is going from open loop to close loop. My thinking is if there was a air leak it would have a lean condition while in open loop and then fatten the AFR in closed loop. This could have the cylinders running fat that were not seeing the leak (#1). Need to figure out what the click noise is associated with.

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I'll spray the WD-40 to see if it changes anything. I can replace the gaskets too. But man that is a boat load of work. UGH!!

Question, when you hear the click, does the idle increase at all? The Purge Solenoid is de-energized when in open loop (cold start) and only starts cycling when warmed up. I wonder if it could be what is clicking. I've never noticed mine making any noise. Besides you have the odd condition on port number one which to me is indicating an air leak. If not a gasket, then how did the injector "O" ring look?

Solohopper said:

I'll spray the WD-40 to see if it changes anything. I can replace the gaskets too. But man that is a boat load of work. UGH!!

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If there is no indication of a leak using the WD40 then I wouldn't bother at this point. Have you done a compression check on #1? How does it compare to the other cylinders?

I went home during my lunch and fiddled a bit.

No change with the wd40. All the way around the intake. It was running rough and this time the idle went down and felt like it was almost going to stall once it warmed up. I had my hand on the TB and the coil on #1 but never heard a click this time.

I disconnected injector one and could hear that it stopped pulsating. I could hear all the others pulsating so it sounds like its working normally. The idle did not change much when i disconnected it. but it did slightly.

I would do a compression check to compare cylinders and inspect the valve train on #1 very closely. Make sure the rocker arm is travelling the same distance up and down as the next cylinder. Roller cams don't normally fail, but if you have a worn lobe, it wouldn't be opening the valve properly. Grabbing at straws here, but if the injector is working, coil is firing and no vacuum leak then it starts to look like something mechanical.

Could it possibly be a stuck injector or the injector staying open which is why over night or when cold it runs rough but once warm it smooths?

Redtruck-VA said:

I would do a compression check to compare cylinders and inspect the valve train on #1 very closely. Make sure the rocker arm is travelling the same distance up and down as the next cylinder. Roller cams don't normally fail, but if you have a worn lobe, it wouldn't be opening the valve properly. Grabbing at straws here, but if the injector is working, coil is firing and no vacuum leak then it starts to look like something mechanical.

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I had one of the shops I originally took it to do a compression check and he said #1 was within specs and fairly equal to the other cylinders.

Someone mentioned the ECM may be the problem. Is there a way to test the ECM or flash it to reset it?

Flagler, I replaced the injector already.