Pulled My Intake Manifold And Found This

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chedched

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I had one of the shops I originally took it to do a compression check and he said #1 was within specs and fairly equal to the other cylinders.

Someone mentioned the ECM may be the problem. Is there a way to test the ECM or flash it to reset it?

Flagler, I replaced the injector already.

ECMs are tricky. There isn't really a way to test it. The suggestion to pull a valve cover and inspect the valve train might be a good idea before you go shotguning a computer at it.

To answer your question, a noid light is similar to a test light but different in a way. What that way is, I can't remember...

I'm slightly tainted due to working in the car business. I see tons of new cars with absolutely strange issues which are resolved by the replacement of the module the controls the problem. My thinking on the ECM could be slightly skewed because of all the ECM replacement I see on newer cars, but that is still my bet.
 

Redtruck-VA

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I had one of the shops I originally took it to do a compression check and he said #1 was within specs and fairly equal to the other cylinders.

Someone mentioned the ECM may be the problem. Is there a way to test the ECM or flash it to reset it?

Flagler, I replaced the injector already.

If you are confident the cylinder is mechanically operational then inspect the wiring harness. The upper engine harness on my 03 unplugs at the rear of the engine on the driver's side. If that is good, then there only remains the PCM. Unfortunately, if your dealership is anything like my local dealership you will not leave happy. My theory is you have a dead or semi dead cylinder due to a vacuum leak or valve sealing condition. When the engine warms up and goes closed loop the O2s adjust to a richer AFR to make up for the lean condition it senses and somewhat covers up the problem. Good luck..
 
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Solohopper

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I cleared all the codes yesterday and waited overnight before starting again.

Went out this morning and swapped the #1 coil for the #3 coil just for ***** and giggles. Still ran like crap on warm up. I stood with the hood open and my hand on the TB during warm up just to see if i could FEEL the click that i have only heard in the past. And of course, today I heard no click. The idle surged a couple of times before smoothing out, but no click. When i got back in the truck i noticed the check engine light on again and pulled these codes from the scanner. A couple of new ones. which is weird since it points to the coil and injector in cylinder 1 again. GEEZ!!!

P0201 Injector #1 Ctrl Circ
P0301 Cylinder #1 Misfire
P2302 Ignition Coil A Sec Circ
 

Redtruck-VA

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I cleared all the codes yesterday and waited overnight before starting again.

Went out this morning and swapped the #1 coil for the #3 coil just for ***** and giggles. Still ran like crap on warm up. I stood with the hood open and my hand on the TB during warm up just to see if i could FEEL the click that i have only heard in the past. And of course, today I heard no click. The idle surged a couple of times before smoothing out, but no click. When i got back in the truck i noticed the check engine light on again and pulled these codes from the scanner. A couple of new ones. which is weird since it points to the coil and injector in cylinder 1 again. GEEZ!!!

P0201 Injector #1 Ctrl Circ
P0301 Cylinder #1 Misfire
P2302 Ignition Coil A Sec Circ


This is good. The P0301 Misfire is the result of the engine running rough. The P0201 points at the PCM/wiring. The P2302 indicates a bad coil or smashed spark plug electrode. At least that is how I interpret the codes.
 

truckin151

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Couple questions:

When you took off and reinstalled the intake manifold, did you reconnect any and all wires? Could any wire(s) have been pulled out of place during the removal OR moved to a place where they are now shorting out on the engine block (heat plus wires dont mix well).

Second, when your vehicle is running under normal driving conditions, does your MDS still engauge?
 
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Solohopper

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I was pretty careful about making sure any and all wires were not smashed or rerouted. I also checked that all plugs were plugged back in. The fact that I swapped the coils this morning and now got this code boggles me. Because have never had problems with cylinder 3. but the coil that WAS on #3 is no on #1 and it still shows number one. ODD.

The MDS engages when its running rough and smooth. I was originally going to replace the MDS solenoids, but once I cracked it open and found the cylinder 1 condition, I through out the MDS idea.
 

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I would be curious, if the mds was going out or had issues, since it shuts down half your cylinders, maybe it isn't shutting down everything or some functions are not working.....

as for the swapping parts, sometimes when a part or an issue is present, and you swap our the part that you think is bad for a part you know is good, it can sometimes magnify the issue and make it present itself. meaning if #1 coil pack was bad, and the wiring to it was bad there is a chance that it could just not be sending the right information back, while once you put on a part that worked the computer saw it and threw the codes.

just as the saying goes, you fix one problem and 3 new ones take its place.
 
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Solohopper

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I understand your thinking. So you're thought is that my wiring in #1 may be bad. otherwise, i'd have a code with cylinder 2 as well.

I'm almost ready to give up and take it to the dealer. But they will **** me and go over all the same things i have and charge me for them. :favorites68:
 

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there have been a few times where I have fixed one issue and once that part was working correctly the tall problem showed itself. It's one of those things where you almost have to go piece by piece until you find the underlying problem.
 
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Solohopper

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there have been a few times where I have fixed one issue and once that part was working correctly the tall problem showed itself. It's one of those things where you almost have to go piece by piece until you find the underlying problem.

So whats your suggestion at this point? Replace wire harness?

Is there a way to test the PCM or reset it?
 

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Dang it I read 5 pages and was excited to see a solution and success. OP are you still out there?
 
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Dang it I read 5 pages and was excited to see a solution and success. OP are you still out there?


Yes I am still here but I have no good news for you.


Reading back to where I left off with that truck got me frustrated all over again. I eventually gave up and never found the problem. I sold the truck as is and let the new owner deal with it. He ended up working for my company about a year later and I did ask if he ever figured out the problem. I don't remember what exactly he told me but it was something I had already checked so I didn't quite believe him. Later (right before he got fired) we all found out he was a big liar and just not a good person. So I definitely don't believe the problem was an easy fix.


Long story short, no solution found.


Good luck.
 
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